runs, but really slow. what are the solutions?

[tyssniffen]

so, I probably still have too much carbon build up on my normal set up.  I need to reduce the size of my radiator tank so the thing will run hotter, and I have already set up a drip line into the intake.   Probably another thing I do wrong is run the thing only for a short time sometimes to run power tools or something - It doesn't get up to heat speed and get rid of the carbon.  maybe my timing is off as well.

It wouldn't fire up so I took off the head, cleaned it up, re-ground the pistons with the smooth compound, cleaned off the top of the piston... didn't really *see* any damage on the cylinder, and put it all back together (with a different alternator, but that's a different story) and now when I crank it up, it's like it doesn't get up to momentum.

If I really hold open the throttle (hold back the governor) it will get going up to speed, but then doesn't even stay that way.

check out the very short video: https://youtube.com/shorts/ezye0HQ9UU8?feature=share

what is going on? how do I fix it?

[broncodriver99]

I can hear two distinct "knocks". One, the quieter one, sounds like the appropriate diesel injection/ignition knock and the other is oddly timed at the same time the intake valve is opening. If you watch the intake rocker you can see it. I'm not sure if I am hearing the valve hit the piston or if that is pressure pushing back through the intake valve when it opens.

[broncodriver99]

Have you checked you valve lash?

[38ac]

The exhaust valve looks to to be barely opening on that video and the lock nut isn't against the screw.  After you fix that remove the belt and see if it will come to speed , its possible something is wrong with the head and dragging the engine down.

[Powdermonkey]

Well....that's an interesting one.  Like 38AC says, it certainly appears that the exhaust adjustment MAY be way out of whack.  Check your valve clearance on both sides first.  Lacking anything else, try 0.008" per side.  Then, check your cam timing.  There are videos about that.  Then, check your injector timing.  You MAY be WAY late on it.  I suppose IF you have to take off the head again, you should check your compression clearance.  But...I can certainly see that your rack is almost wide open.  Very strange.

[tyssniffen]

Have you checked you valve lash?

no, I don't think so. what's the valve lash?

[tyssniffen]

Ah, I think I get that you mean the distance between the rocker and the valve head. As everyone else is talking about. Yes I will work to adjust that, and see if it helps. That point 07 is at Top Dead center?

[Powdermonkey]

Valve lash is pretty easy to do.  In principle, you run the particular cam lobe into its base circle (by way of rotating the engine).  In practical terms, that means that the push-rod of a lister should be at its LOWEST position.  From there, you'll be measuring the gap between the NOSE of the lifter and the valve cap.  You'll want a feeler gauge of ~ 0.008" to JUST slide between the nose and the cap.  Should you not have that, then field expediency would demand two pieces of common notebook paper (~ 0.008").  Adjust the valve screw until that feeler gauge or paper is JUST touched (won't slide).  At that point, tighten down the lock nut on the adjusting screw.

Now, move onto the OTHER valve.  You'll have to rotate the engine to get the opposite valve into its base circle.  Certainly, when the valve you JUST adjusted is ALL THE WAY UP, then the second valve must be in its base circle.  Repeat the process with the feeler gauge or paper on the second valve. 

Now, if all this remains too confusing, I'd recommend you put the Lister down for a while, and pick up a book about adjusting valves.  I don't mean to be derogatory here.  Just factual. 

[tyssniffen]

yeah, got it, and did it.  I just didn't know the term 'lash'.    Surprised things were so out of whack, and glad you all saw it in the video.