How to / DIY > Engines

Lister Petter TR/TS3 injector pump problem

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GreekLes:
Hi All,

New here, but help needed & UK sources appear useless!!

Got a L-P TR/TS3 running a 15kVA gen. - or it used to.   Didn't run it for about 5years, didn't need it, & when I went to start it it wouldn't fire.   Turned over OK, but no healthy vrummm.
Much moaning, taking bits apart, found that the fuel injector pump was not working - linkage from 2nd cylinder to 3rd wasn't turning at 3, no fuel, no firing.
Removed the pump, tried to free it - big joke.   Took it to local "engineer" (loose term, on a remote Greek island) who tried to compress the base spring to allow the pump to be dismantled.   There must be a way to do this, but we couldn't work out how to get that central spigot out of the base plate, so couldn't get the thing apart.   But, this did 'sort of' free the accelerator (is that the right term?) "thingy" but it still wasn't completely free.
Still there??    Good!!!

So, ordered a new one from UK (nearest source).   OMG, Brexit is a PITA.    Eventually the new pump arrived.    Nice, bright, clean, new smelling, but longer than the original.   According to what I've Googled, it is the correct part & is interchangeable with my original one.
But it's longer.    From the shoulder that sits in the engine block to the base of the spring that contacts the tappet it is approx. 8mm longer.
To me, that's a problem.   Contacted the supplier in the UK (there's really only one now) & got a "yes, it should be the same, it should work OK, it shouldn't be a problem".   Not what I wanted to hear, I wanted "it IS the same, it WILL work, it WON'T be a problem".
Contacted a refurbishing company UK, who said the same as the company that supplied this unit, with the same "should's".

So  HELP!!!!!
To my way of thinking, if the unit is 8mm longer, the tappet needs to be shortened by the same amount to make the pump work as it should, otherwise once it is bolted down the spring will already be compressed & this will put undue stress on the tappet, guide, bush, etc.    Can't easily bush between the pump bse & the block as it has an oil seal that fits into the hole in the block, so I'd need to get a block machined to fill the gap & provide the seal.

Hopefully someone out there will recognise all this & be able to put me right.

Cheers all.
PS  Sending back, with all of the customs paperwork & cost of return really would be last resort.

cobbadog:
G'Day Les and welcome to this side of the world.
First thing I would do is try it as it is. If it works your in business and the world is a better place again. If not return it and tell them what the problem is and that would be that it does not match up with the others as they said it would, that then becomes their problem not yours.
Makes it a bit tricky to get the complete idea without pictures but in general know what your saying. I too would have questioned the supplier endlessly.
As for stripping the old pump from memory mine was held in place by a wire circlip then it came apart. Sounds as if you had some moisture in there for it to seize up. Do you have the numbers of the original pump and of the one supplied by chance?

Diesel Engineering:
There have been a few different pumps fitted over the years. Probably not worth worrying to much about measurements. You will only know if it works when you try to carry out the spill timing. You certainly do not want to be altering the pump or trying to put packers below it. Do t know who you have been dealing with in the past but the main dealer for Lister Petter in the UK is a company called Sleeman & Hawken, tel 01626 778266. They should be able to advise as they will have all the records.

Diesel Engineering:
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Diesel Engineering:
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