How to / DIY > Engines

Lister CD8 Diesel

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cobbadog:
I have this CD8 diesel engine and when it came to me it was from a farm and use to drive a generator for the old farm house. When it came home to live with me the generator was long gone. Now I understand that this is a 'tropical' model when they run a radiator (I have the original honey comb radiator but it leaks like a sieve) but when it arrived here it had no oil tank and there was a rubber hose looped around to complete the flow of oil. This idea worked a treat until the engine built up too much oil pressure in the hose and would blow it off but the engine ran beautifully.
Since then I built my own oil tank and plumbed it in also fitting a free flow oil filter in line. I also added a good fuel filter to keep the fuel lines nice and clean.
I had put the engine under cover for about a year and now I am having issues with oil. What happens is I start the engine and run it at about idle and at that speed I hooked up a pressure gauge where the original gauge is and it reads 28psi more than needed going by some paper work I have. After about 4-5 minutes of running at idle it locks up as if there is no oil or pressure. I have to use a plumbers wrench to wind the engine backwards to unlock it. This scares me as I don't want to stuff a good engine and I need some help in resolving this problem please.
First shows the engine on my home made transporter.
Second shows the in line oil filter
Last shows the engine ID tag

cobbadog:
I will post all the information I have on how the oil is suppose to circulate but I am unsure of some of the pipes and would like any and all corrections pointed out and to identify "B and J" as I do not know what they are suppose to do. Once I have all the correct information I can go out and uncover the engine and start following all the lines and check things over again to make it run again as it should. Sorry I do not have any current pictures but should have some from tomorrow. I will post 3 pages of what I have and the first one I have labelled what I believe to be correct. If there is any other information available I would appreciate it as well.

broncodriver99:
Looking forward to the pics. It looks like your suspicions are right to me. Pipe J looks like the oil supply to the pressure pump from the tank and Pipe B looks like the pressure supply line from the pressure pump to the pressure regulating valve.

Where are you taking the pressure reading? I wonder if something is going on with the bypass valve causing the engine to starve for oil as well as not properly relieving to the tank. Seems like maybe the problem has been there since the rubber hose days.

cobbadog:
Here we go.
After taking off the covers in over 2 years I started checking everything that I had done in order to fit my home made oil tank, in line filters for both oil and fuel. I had foolishly left the oil tap open and all oil from the tank had gone to the sump. So with decompression lever holding the valve open and the oil tap now closed, I cranked and cranked until all oil stopped returning to the tank. It looked a bit low so I added about another litre of oil to it. Now I can only guess the quantity of oil going by the size of the tank and guess that at the level of the oil now it has around 5 litres, just over an Imperial gallon. Next was to make sure that the fuel bowl and filter were good as it looked as if there was a bit of contamination in both. Cleaned the bowl at the tap and then took the bottom off the filter to clean that clear plastic bowl. Not a lot had to be cleaned out but it got done so I could eliminate these things. Rocker cover off and oiled the rockers as they explain in the book and fitted that back in place. I roughly bled the fuel line to the bleed nipple at the filter housing and got fuel out of that. I checked that the rack was free to move fully from STOP to open and this was a tiny bit sticky so I sprayed some Lanox on the shaft and it came good. I set the fast idle metal lug that holds the rack partially open and usually in that position it starts and runs fine. Happy with what I had done I decided to start it up. 2 swings on the crank and drop the decompression lever and it was away ticking over just above idle and sounding so good to hear it live again. After a few minutes it was sounding odd and it was then I noticed that I did not turn the fuel back on and was starving for fuel.
Yes that is over 2 years worth of Mango tree leaves under the home made trolley.

cobbadog:
Next are some closer pics of the oil tank I made and how the inline oil filter was fitted and of the twin oil pumps, one constant pressure to the engine and the other is the scavenger pump to run a dry sump.
Sorry you asked where I measured the oil pressure. That was done from the line that goes to the original gauge for oil pressure and engine temp.
With further investigation and help from broncodriver I have now confirmed that;
K is the scavenger pump return line to the regulating valve.
B is the Pressure supply to the regulating valve.
J is supply to the pressure pump.
It appears that all the plumbing is correct and going to all the right places.

Now after having to fully bleed the whole system again. The first 2 stages are easy with just using gravity to get to the bleed screw on the fuel filter. After that I removed the line at the pump and again cranked and cranked until I got a nice constant amount of fuel pushing gently up from the top. Next disconnect it at the injector, or where the fuel line goes into the rocker cover. After a heap cranking again I got the same amount of fuel dribbling out of the line so I connected it up. Did another start up this time confirming both oil and fuel taps were on and away it went again. Still running for a while until again a different sound happened and the engine was shutting down as if it was out of fuel again. To morrow is another day and will have another look at the fuel supply system but maybe I need to really get inside the fuel filter housing and check all is well inside.

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