There be a listeroid 12/2

[hwew]

I do not want a diesel engine like a kubota and others that have to run in there sweet spot of 2800 rpm. That is to fast for me to want to listen to. For me 2200-3000 rpm is a high speed engine esp for diesel, and dont want to listen to that racket.

Don’t want to listen to racket What about the Listeroid popping and clunking noise? The quietest project I’ve built was the Kubota D1005 powered, direct drive, 1800 rpm genset. This unit was much quieter than any loaded listeroid I’ve heard. That pop pop pop pop… The GM-90, 6/1 that I had drove me nuts. The exhaust system alone would have been something to quiet the exhaust noise down. Before I got rid of it I was thinking of digging a hole and make an underground muffler. Been around lots of Listeroids and GM-90’s in the days.

 There was one GM-90 engine that Mike Monteith imported in very few numbers that I wish I bought. It was a mini version of the 6-1. I believe it had heavy 16” flywheel’s.
That was one cute engine. I believe it ran about 1000 rpm. It was rated at 3hp. The tiny thing still weighed 300 lbs or more.

Keith, it’s ok, you’re still welcome to come over at the other forum. Edited

Seriously, that was a find. And, you’re at the right place to get it up and operating. Best of luck and looking forward watching the build.

Take care,

[keith71]

Henry the Kubota isnt going anywhere . Just getting the top end cleaned up on this 12/2 and see how well it runs if at all.
Deciding on whether to get a good valve and seat replacement job. Or run it as is with cleaned up seats after cleaning..I ordered George's Listeroid CD. That should give me the basics and hopefully a bit more.

I still check in at the darkside everyday as you put it. Once I am ready to start putting this thing back together I can post some pics there as well.

[hwew]

I think cujet’s suggestion is a good one. Get it running first and see how everything goes first.

Glad hearing that you’re keeping the Kubota. Out of all modern small diesels, they are my favorite.

See you out there,

[keith71]

Don't get too wrapped around the axle with regard to valve depth. If needed, just grind the valves and seats to fit. Adjust the bump clearance to achieve the proper compression ratio. No biggie.   

Cujet I saw your post then I forgot to reply to it. Henry's post made me remember.  But yes I think I am going to take your advice and go with it.  Seems like the way to go for me right now anyway, on an unknown engine. Can always go back inside later if I need to or want to. So thank's.

[38ac]

The valve recession spec is .055 to .100" Like any other engine spec Lister didn't pull those numbers out if thin air.. Added depth adds to the volume at TDC, more volume equals less compression, less compression means harder starting. Too little depth means valve interference with piston becomes likely.  The cumulative effect of too much valve recession, a bit of rod and main bearing wear and a bit of crankshaft wear means compression gets low enough that the  engine vecomes hard to start at lower temperatures. That being said it is up to the individual to place his own importance on adhereing to specs. Its not going to blow up in spectacular fashion if the valve depth is .0545" nor will it instantly turn from an easy starter to a hard starter when the depth passes .100" to .101"it is however important part of putting one together right. Also realize that my views on deals like this are not the same as an individual working on his own stuff trying to get it going a d if it doesnt work its HIS fault. When a customer's piece leaves here as rebuilt, that means it falls within all petainable specs. If it doesnt work as designed it is MY fault,LOL

[keith71]

The valve to head clearance actually measures  .065 intake and .067 exhaust. I measured a few times.  Going to try and check bump clearance in the next few days. Hoping that comes in on the better end of specs as well. I should add that is for the number1 cylinder head.  Edit just measured cyl #2 .  .075 on both Int & Exh