New build - Changfa R175

[veggie]

New build almost finished.
A Changfa R175 coupled to a 4kw head.
(Max output is more like 2.5kw)

The unit has an external oil filter which added almost a liter to the oil capacity.
I suspect I can extend oil change intervals with this mod.
Also added is a throttle linear actuator which will allow future automation such as remote start/stop and throttle control.
You can see the actuator open the throttle just before the engine starts.
When the actuator is extended all the way to full stop, it sets the engine at 60hz speed. The max extension (60hz setting) is adjustable via a slotted mount at the back of the linear actuator

The small fuel tank is a temporary installation for testing purposes.
I only ran it for a few seconds because the cooling system has yet to be added.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-k1TiayS5N8

[keith71]

Very nice.. I like how compact it is.  Are you using the stock changfa oil pump to pump oil through the filter?  My R170 does not really have a real oil pump. So I am looking for the right type of pump to be able to remove oil from the sump thru oil filter and return to opposite side of the sump. I may go with a very small hydraulic type pump.

One more question about your setup if I may. Where do you get those little control boxes that house the starter button and other wiring from?  I wouldn't doubt it if you built them from scratch with your talents..  I have seen them on a few of your projects. Thanks, Keith.

[veggie]

Hi keith71

The R175 engine has an internal gear pump and pressure lube system.
I tapped into the location where the metal oil screen used to reside.
Blocked it off, and diverted to the flow externally.

Regarding the little grey control box, it's a Scepter 4x4x4 inch conduit box from Home Depot / Lowes.
I wired in 3 circuits.
1] Push button starter switch
2] Double pole/double throw throttle actuator direction switch
3] Single pole toggle for coolant pump on/off

It was a bit tight fitting that into the 4x4 box as you can see in this picture....

<click picture to enlarge>

[38ac]

And another impecable build by Veggie!
 I have an R165 and R170 sitting around here gathering dust and been thinking about a portable 12V charger build. I also have two air cooled mini Petteroids which would save the cooling system hassles.

[keith71]

And another impecable build by Veggie!
 I have an R165 and R170 sitting around here gathering dust and been thinking about a portable 12V charger build. I also have two air cooled mini Petteroids which would save the cooling system hassles.

That is what I am doing with my R170. Going to build a 12 volt charger. Also have a 2000 watt AC little gen head I may add as well.. Wont run ac and try to charge batteries at the same time. Not sure the 4.5hp the 170 puts out is enough grunt.

[keith71]

38AC do your 165 and R170 engines have to different pulley mount patterns? I have seen on both herys and veggies flywheels that the 165 pulley has a pattern like the bigger 175-185 engines. But the R170 has a pattern that is unique to just the r170 only. I may still take you up on that offer to make me a stub shaft for my 170.

I can get A 4'' diameter round by  3/4'' or 1'' thick piece of steel. would have to lathe material out on backside deep enough for the flywheel nut. Then bore a 1'' hole . Then I could weld in a piece of 1'' diameter shaft stock with the keyway already cut in it.  Does that sond like an easier way to build a stub shaft? Thanks, Keith..

[32 coupe]

Keith,
I have done several with that method.
After you weld the shaft then insert the shaft on the lathe to face the mating surface true.


Gary

[keith71]

Thanks 32 coupe. I was hoping that would be an acceptable way of building the stub shaft.. Need to make more friends that are local with a lathe.. What an invaulable  machine for all the projects and fix its we do with these engines and our projects.

Going to send you a pm about that other little thing we were talking about. I did not forget you..

[32 coupe]

No problem Keith. I'm so busy right now it's hard for me to keep up !

The stub shaft.... as I said I have used that method several times. Even when setting the stub at 0
in the hub once it gets welded it will shift a little that's why I say to face it after welding. Might just
be my limited skill set.

I like to use the Lovejoy type couplers. They can be found on ebay usually for a reasonable price if
you do a little searching.

[38ac]

I will check out my R165 and R170 and let you know. Follow Gary's advise for the stub shaft.

[veggie]

"I can get A 4'' diameter round by  3/4'' or 1'' thick piece of steel. would have to lathe material out on backside deep enough for the flywheel nut. Then bore a 1'' hole . Then I could weld in a piece of 1'' diameter shaft stock with the keyway already cut in it.  Does that sond like an easier way to build a stub shaft?"

Keith71, yes that is exactly how my stub shafts were made (with help from a machinist).
Once the shaft is inserted into the flange plate with a press fit, weld the shaft to the plate on the inside AND the outside of the plate.
Then place in a lathe and skim any parts that are out-of-round due to welding.
If you want to end up with a shaft diameter of 1", perhaps make the raw unit using 1.25" shafting so there there is some material to skim in a lathe if there is a wobble.

[dkmc]

Very nice build!

[38ac]

I finally got my R165 dug out to check the pulleys and they are identical. As a matter of fact the entire engines are identical externally

[keith71]

I finally got my R165 dug out to check the pulleys and they are identical. As a matter of fact the entire engines are identical externally

Your 165 and 170 have identical bolt patterns on the flywheel's ? It looks like than the 165 engines could come with two different pulley bolt patterns. Some 165's with the large pattern like 175 up engines, some with just the 170 with small bolt pattern.  Thank you for the info.