Resurrection of a Deutz MAH 914, 1952? Lets see!

[ajaffa1]

Hi VP, I think you are probably right about the problem being related to the second world war. At the end of WW1 the British forced the Germans to sign the treaty of Versailles. This was an onerous document and would have left the German people living in poverty for centuries. They rebelled against it, leading to WW2.
At the end of WW2 the Americans wanted to avoid a WW3 so they came up with the Marshall Plan to help European nations to rebuild their industries and societies. Germany was a recipient of this aid and it resulted in the enormous industrial powerhouse we see today.
While Germany was able to produce steel in metric sizes, it had to import manufacturing equipment from the USA or the UK where they still used imperial threads and measurements. Consequently there are lots of pieces of 1950`s/1960`s equipment that are a metric/imperial hybrid.
The cheapest and in my opinion best solution is to buy yourself a Zeus book. This handy little book contains all the thread pitches and angles for both metric and imperial threads. You should be able to order one online for around 15 Euros.
That reminds me, I need to order one for myself, my 40 year old one got burned in the bushfires.

Bob

[sirpedrosa]

Bob, Gentles

German Deutz moderator, Matze, say "The engines were built when Cologne was occupied by the Americans or after it was occupied. Then the rest of the parts were used up." (https://www.deutzforum.de/threads/deutz-mah-914-1952-to-be-restored.63951/post-605477);

Therefore pitches will be (55º, instead of 60º), UNC or UNF or some other fancy ancient America thread pitch.

LETS SEE HOW IT GOES.

Cheers
VP

[cobbadog]

BSW and BSF (british standard whitworth / fine) are the 55' pitch. Others are the 60' pitch for the Imperial threads.

[sirpedrosa]

Gentles, Cobba

Ah... Ah... after all we got nice Members paying atention.

Made it wrong expressly, to get replies in order to made my pool of Authority Members.

Just joking! ; Just switched tables and didn't paid attention to right pitch standard.

Thanks for made the remark.

Cheers
VP

[sirpedrosa]

Gentles

Here it is the flys extractor jig, made by NASA's specs. 8.8 grade, M18 rod, and M18 union. Now on is brute force! 

The UPN (80mm) was get from the same company (truck cargo box company), and this bit was a leftover since I made my hidraulic press. Who will imagine that?

Lets see how it goes!

Cheers
VP

[sirpedrosa]

Gentles

Give flys extractor a side strategic approach in order to be able to screw the union fastener. Nothing fancy, just a tweak.

The UPN beam start to left the straight line (elasticity) and after I give a moderate heat at the fly boss.

Some drops of WD40 to soak the rust... and a several vigorous hits with wood mallet (with hands, off course) in order to send vibrations thru cast iron.

Off course I only unscrew crank nut 1 turn (otherwise it will fly to Tasmania. ). when it breaks rust it slams at nut.

My friends there was huge energy stored... it clacks hard against crank nut (I learn this one with Squatch253. See here: https://www.youtube.com/c/squatch253;

Now some pics for the show, by order:

1 - measuring straightness of the jig, in order to put equal force on both sides;
2 - heat, with my 1L torch;
3 - rotating and slamming evenly the fly (Alu can is to protect rod pitch);
4 - Fly is free;
5 - Flys are out;
6 - Crankcase free of flys;

To be continued...

[sirpedrosa]

1 - First a tribute to the well made jig;
2 - Oil seal body, from governor side;
3 - Oil seal body, from non governor side;
4 - Oil pump shaft (Why a stamped seal in this bolts? they only, I mean only, hold the shaft in place with a copper washer. Why? [Question for German knowledge])
5 - A close look at the rust that goes inside oil seal. Amazing;
6 - A tribute to wooden mallet. Its fair!

A few more... be patient!

[sirpedrosa]

1 - Governor oil seal off;
2 - Crank rusted, and conical bearing race nut holder (need to withdraw to take off crank);
3 - Non governor oil seal and ball bearing;
4 - Ball bearing retaining nut (Last overhaling hammer substituted hook spanner);
5 - Crank is out. Pay attention: THE CRANK BALL BEARING MUST TAKE WITH IT THE FLANGE, OTHERWISE CRANK WILL STUCK, (I got to put bearing again inside flange and job tooke twice the time);
6 - Be carfull with bearing nut, its mild steel, very mild!

Thats all for now!

Cheers
VP

[cobbadog]

Good work there VP. Flywheels can be a problem at times. My last engine project was a SE McDonald Super Imperial Crude Oil engine. (that is a mouthful to say) Both flywheels had to be removed. This took close to a month, not full time, but many many hours. First the gibb head keys broke. So I welded a bolt to them and bought a rather heavy slide hammer, but no joy. Then started drill the key out and had a drill bit break off in side just to test me further. Eventually I managed to drill enough small holes to be able to collapse the key and remove it. Now to get the flywheel off. I had a puller for the job as well and had to use WD40 or my preference is Lanox also used with some heat to soak it inside onto the shaft. Still no go and even with shock treatment around the outside and more intense heat it was not moving. Something I tried was instead of heating the hub of the flywheel I heated the outside rim and I don't know if that is why it released or not but it worked. Then I had to do the other side all with the same dramas. Engine was made in March 1945 and I feel it was the first time they had been removed.

[ajaffa1]

Hi VP, very nice work, flywheels can be a bugger to remove. I have no idea about the oil pump lead seal unless it was something to do with the warranty; messing with the oil pump would invalidate the guarantee.
How do the crankshaft and camshaft bearings look? When I was rebuilding my Cooper engine I could not buy replacement bearings so I had to modify the housings to take bearings that were available.
That crankshaft  looks to be in near mint condition, I`m looking forward to seeing the condition of the camshaft, hopefully it is just as good.

Bob

[ajaffa1]

Hi VP, I`m a little curious about the oil seals. One end shows the bearing held in place with a regular toothed c-spanner nut and the housing has a neoprene seal. The other end has a similar nut but it has an oil thrower ring turned into it, does that end have a regular neoprene oil seal or is it a felt seal?

Bob

[sirpedrosa]

Bob, Cobba, Gentles

Stupidity strikes for the 3rd time.

I put the valve guides to clean in the deoxidizer... and it ate the metal.

I didn't realize it was a steel alloy that must have a high percentage of zinc or magnesium. Now they are definitely destroyed and I have to buy new ones or have them made.

the exhaust guide was good, the intake guide was not so good, because it was worn inside and had already been hammered on the outside to keep it in place.

I'm green with shame, but that's life.

It  start to be a lot of error on the same machine...damn, damn, damn.

About the oil seals at bearing covers they are both rubber,

The oil thrower ring in fact is a nut to retain the roller bearing. Cant figure out why is different ro why its a oil thrower.

Now got to make a 42 spanner to take out cam shaft.

Well, things are no so bad till now compared with Cobba's engine.

Cheers
VP

[ajaffa1]

Hi VP, valve guides are often made of sintered cast iron. The high carbon/graphite content acts as a lubricant. I don`t understand why they would dissolve in the cleaning fluid.
You may not be able to get replacements easily, if not, you should be able modify what is readily available. I recently replaced all the guides from a vintage tractor. I couldn`t get the right guides so I bought some that were too long and shortened them.
What are the valve seats like? Are they cast iron or does the head have toughened steel inserts pressed in? Sometimes it is necessary to have the seats recut after fitting new guides, it can be done by hand if they are cast iron but may need to go to a machine shop if they are hardened steel.
I would offer to make replacements for you but all my workshop tools are still in two containers until my new shed is completed.
Keep up the good work, still looking forward to seeing that camshaft.

Bob

[sirpedrosa]

Bob, Gentles

Maybe that carbon/graphite as you say, because this deoxidiser takes out all galvanized from screws or nuts.

It doesnt attak naked steel or copper.

Valve seats are hard steel inserts and they are good as new. All the engine inside is in very good condition. I think it stops to work a few years after overhauling because piston rings and piston are new. Big end need a buffing just to be smooth.

Camshaft is in good condition (as far as I can see), I'm enrolled to take it out, but more rust and it's spinning and I need to make another wrench for it to hold from inside - it has one face flat - and it will be another challenge.

I'm sorting already some bits by function - but Im paying the price to not have the shop book.

See pics of guides and a fly date.

Had you saw my bloody video about, and my happiness?

Cheers
VP

Ps: Exhaust valve is lubricated, and inlet valve uses some drip oil of air filter.

[ajaffa1]

Hi VP, yes I watched your video, wasn`t too much to be happy about.
I`m looking at that fly wheel and realize that it is older than me and in much better condition! 
Looking at the two valve guides, I`m wondering if they were being held in place by the rust. Now you have removed the rust they are loose. Certainly one of them has been peened to get it to fit. It could be that the valve stuck in the valve guide and the valve guide moved. Check for wear in the cylinder head.

If you can`t get replacements let me know the exact dimensions required and I will try to make some for you, if I can get the sintered iron.

Bob