Resurrection of a Deutz MAH 914, 1952? Lets see!

[ajaffa1]

Hi VP, a sad day indeed. However, if the injector element was that badly stuck that you had to put it in the press the chances are it was already damaged beyond repair. The slightest wear or corrosion in an injector element makes them unusable.
I hope you can find a replacement.

Bob

[cobbadog]

OOPS big time. Sorry that this has happened after all your very hard work in collecting it and stripping it to this point. Do you think you will be able to get another one?

[sirpedrosa]

Bob, Cobba, Gentles

It had the tip corroded - but only saw it could be saved (dont want a Ferrari) after break it.

Was made it carefully and I ended to put the wrong roll pin punch, IN THE WRONG PLACE.

I can source another one here: https://www.historische-ersatzteile.de/pumpen-mah-mih-motoren

But its expensive anyway, and I hate to breke things.

Cheers
VP

[ajaffa1]

Don`t feel too bad about making a mistake. The only person that has never made a mistake has never made anything at all! Very glad to see you can buy a replacement element for around 90 Euros plus delivery. I will happily give 25 Euros towards the replacement, perhaps some others will do the same.

Keep smiling
Bob

[sirpedrosa]

Bob

I appreciate you cheers me but, its not the value... it's the stupidity I had make! thats the point.

Now I'm making a 60mm ring spaner to withdraw the flyes.

I got to strip it to make the replacement inventory and source parts.

Cheers
VP

[cobbadog]

Try not to be hard on yourself. We have all made mistakes and by doing so we learn by them. In time we hope to see some more progress as it happens. Stay calm and continue with the great work you are doing.

[sirpedrosa]

Gentles

A few more pics os the disassembly of the german.

(Damn, that plunger still knocking my head... and in my hart!)

It is in good shape inside - at first glance.

Big end crank need to be polished.

Babbit looks ok, just some wearing, and it has a hole at place of oil from pump channel.

Small end I think will need new bushing.

Piston has 2 rings stuck.


Cheers
VP

[ajaffa1]

Hi VP, that all looks good, I`m a little bit surprised by the hole in the big end bearing shell. It looks like a manufacturing fault, very unusual in German made machinery. Everything else looks ok, the stuck piston rings are probably due to it having sat idle for so long, soak them and they should free up.
Is the little end bearing brass/bronze or white metal? White metal is no problem, brass/bronze sometimes require reaming to size after fitting, not something you can do at home without specialist equipment.
Stop worrying about the injector pump!

Bob

[sirpedrosa]

Bob, Gentles

From my point of view its not a manufacturing fault, but if you give atention to the big end journal and the oil hole we can figure out that fault match with the cicle of stroke of the oil pump. So I think oil pressure maybe did that.

Just my 5 cents.

Cheers
VP

PS: Yes that damn IP still hamering my mind!

[sirpedrosa]

Gentles

The crank case is almost empty.

Oil pump only need a good clean (steel balls as valves), its in good condition.

Now make a though 60mm ring spanner to get off the flyes.

A few pics

Cheers
VP

[ajaffa1]

Hi VP. Things are looking good. I am still not sure about that hole in the big end bearing shell, Most engines run with an oil pressure of between 20 and 100 pounds per square inch. To punch a hole through a steel backed Babbitt shell would require thousands of pounds per square inch, I don`t think the oil pump would produce that sort of pressure. Does the oil pump have a bypass valve to prevent excessive oil pressure? Does the oil pump lubricate other parts of the engine or just the big end?
Good luck with the flogging spanner.
Bob

[sirpedrosa]

Gentles

A few more bits off and start to put things on track.

Stuck decompressor limiter saved;

Tappets off, and nice;

And, finally, injector came out. Look how thin is the injector body!

A few pics for the show.

Cheers
VP

[sirpedrosa]

Bob, Gentles

Thanks for your support.

Oil pump as you can see is driven by an excentric cam in the main shaft.

The pump was full of water, maybe some reaction () with babbit. Didnt notice any bypass, and only lubricate big end.

Flogging spanner got to go to a torch, couldnt cut it, its too thick for hand tools.

A QUESTION FOR MEMBERS:

Cant see any timing marks neither at main, neither at camshaft. how can I be ware of its marks.

And how can I straighten the push rod without bend. The tube is very elastic.

Cheers
VP

[ajaffa1]

Hi VP, there are sure to be timing marks probably just hidden by rust or dirt. If you can`t find them turn the crank to top dead center and look again. If you still can`t see them rotate the crank a further 360 degrees and look again. On a four stroke engine the crank rotates 720 degrees while the camshaft rotates only 360 degrees. Failing all else, rotate the crank through its complete 720 degree cycle and watch the action of the cam lobes. You need to identify top dead center on the engines compression stroke, now put a couple of witness marks on the camshaft gears with a center punch, take photographs to help you with alignment during reassembly.
Bob

[cobbadog]

I stripped down a tractor engine that had the cam gear replaced. Same size gear but diesel version of the same engine but 90' out with the timing marks at TDC on #1. So I made my own marks to be certain. I knew I was on TDC as the rotor button was facing #1 and the cam lobes were away form the cam followers so I marked everything up at that point.
It was not until later that I found out about the difference between TVO and Diesel cam gears. Very glad I took the steps I did as it made assembly so much easier.