Lister Engines > Original Lister Cs Engines

Changeover valve removal suggestions.

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Ted Goat:
Thank you for the suggestions so far, I'm hoping it won't be that badly stuck, as the rest of the engine is oily and has come apart really easy.
I'm going to give it a good long soak, (a few weeks) whilst I'm doing other things and go from there.

I've seen someone push a seized piston out with the grease gun method, but as you say, be very careful.
If it comes to that I'll probably use thick oil in the gun, for ease of washing out after and put a pressure guage in the line, wouldn't go more than about 800-1000 psi. (I think compression on high setting is about 600)
Thanks again and any more ideas are very welcome.

Ted Goat:
I've used an ultrasonic cleaner before with siezed carburettor jets in corroded zinc casting carbs, and the vibrations and hot liquid have proved successful. The thing is finding someone with a cleaning bath big enough for a CS head, most are just big enough for a lawnmower carb.
Certainly another avenue to explore though, thanks Mihit.

38ac:

--- Quote from: mikenash on April 07, 2022, 06:57:26 AM ---I have one that is troublesome too.  I'm considering just letting the engine run and work on "high".

I note the Indian clones don't have them - and with their quality control I would guess there are some engines running with very high compression and some with very low.  i haven't heard of failures because of excess compression - and i wonder if "high" compressions is within tolerance

Certainly, when it's apart you could measure the crush at the top, do a back-of-envelope on what would constitute a working compression  and fit base gaskets to suit?

I'd be interested in thoughts?  Cheers

--- End quote ---

India does build COV equipped engines and they are available through parts. They do a very good job on the valves and they function and appear same as OEM. However if the COV is not specified on the order they will ship the enines with the 8/1 type blanking plug no matter the spec asked for.

The bump for COV equipped and non COV equipped engines is different. When correctly set the resulting compression ratio on the non COV 8/1 types is about halfway between the high and low compressions on a COV equipped engine.

mikenash:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63420EHuZ3g

Yes.  See link?

I have an old 6/1 running with an Indian head with that plug.  I have long since forgotten what the squashed-solder clearance piston-to-head was.  Iirc I may have used a couple of lead shot?

Anyway, regardless. It seems like you could possibly sneak another base gasket in and run the engine with the COV stuck in 'high"

It wouldn't be the "right" solution.  But if you measured the squish before and after, and if it was a bit more than spec with an extra base gasket in place . . .

Just a backyard person's view on a fix

Cheers

38ac:

--- Quote from: mikenash on April 07, 2022, 08:13:28 PM ---
 It seems like you could possibly sneak another base gasket in and run the engine with the COV stuck in 'high"

It wouldn't be the "right" solution.  But if you measured the squish before and after, and if it was a bit more than spec with an extra base gasket in place . . .

Just a backyard person's view on a fix

Cheers

--- End quote ---

Yes you could do that no problem. The blanking plug gives the same compression ratio as the COV screwed in.

Maybe I didn't understand the original question? I thought he had the COV out and was ha ing difficulties with the piece behind it?

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