Lister Engines > Original Lister Cs Engines

Changeover valve removal suggestions.

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Ted Goat:
New on here, although been lurking here as a guest for a while and been collecting engines for 25 years.
Just aquired a lovely original CS 3-1 from a farm in Norfolk, it will fire up, but I'm going to strip it right down as the insides are absolutely blocked solid with sludge and bits of debris, I'm just not happy I can get it cleaned out properly without stripping it.
Anyway, all coming apart easily, flywheels etc off but can't get the changeover valve out .
The outer plug cap came unscrewed easily, but the inner parts are jammed solid with carbon etc. I've tried the "compression" method several times, and I'm not brave enough to actually start the engine to try to blow it out. My plan maybe to let it soak a couple of weeks in something that softens carbon (diesel or redex maybe) and if that doesn't loosen it may try to rig up a steel plate over the combustion chamber with a 1/8 grease nipple and use a grease gun to hydraulically push the chambers out.
Can't get in with any heat without risking damaging the valve stem or spring.

Hate the thought of destroying something that's lasted 70 years and replacing it with some Indian rubbish parts.

Anyone any ideas for getting it out?

You can try soaking but its never worked for me. If it wasn't leaking previously the  best advice I can give is to leave the inner piece alone. I had a couple that had to be removed and both were destroyed in the process. Good luck with it!

Hugh Conway:
My experience is same as 38AC's. Tried everything that I had ever seen recomended to remove the COV.......nothing worked. Had to destroy it to remove it.
YMMV......I hope you have success with a less destructive method.

I have one that is troublesome too.  I'm considering just letting the engine run and work on "high".

I note the Indian clones don't have them - and with their quality control I would guess there are some engines running with very high compression and some with very low.  i haven't heard of failures because of excess compression - and i wonder if "high" compressions is within tolerance

Certainly, when it's apart you could measure the crush at the top, do a back-of-envelope on what would constitute a working compression  and fit base gaskets to suit?

I'd be interested in thoughts?  Cheers

Guess I got both the good ones. Never had an issue popping em. (I, also, like to have a base-line of maintenance)

Grease gun=12,000 PSI... Probably > Lister CS
Though I suppose you could build up pressure slowly over days, but then also the firing cycle would act on it like an impact driver/ slide hammer, so...

One thing that has twigged my curiousity (but never enough to invest in it) is Ultrasonic cleaning... find someone who knows the ins and outs of it and it could just work...


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