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Muffler Through Wall Question

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Greetings Fellow Lister Enthusiasts,

I was wondering if someone would please give me some guidance about the muffler on my 10/1 Listeroid?

I currently have the generator installed in my garage and have a muffler vented through the roof. I am installing solar panels on the roof so the muffler needs to be removed. The generator is about 3' from the garage wall so I should be able to vent it out of the wall. My question is, Do I have to put an elbow on the muffler and turn it up after it exits the garage? I would rather not because then everything that comes out of the muffler will land on the solar panels.

Thanks for the help.

I don't see why it needs to face up. I think that's just to divert the exhaust away from people on the ground. Both of my listeroids have mufflers that exit horizontally, just like a car.

I likely going to have my 12/2 I beam frame bolted to the concrete floor in my shop and run exhaust through the wall as well. Does anyone have tips for insulating the pipe so there is little to no heat transfer as well as keeping weather out? I've installed wood stove pipes before, you use a steel box that keeps everything away from the hot bits and the pipe was triple insulated as well.

Hugh Conway:
Re wall exit and muffler
@Listernational.....our listeroid is in an open shed, the exhaust exits through a wooden wall. The wall just has a big hole, there's plenty of clearance. From there, it goes to an underground baffled pit, thence through a 3" plastic vertical stack. All particulates are captured underground. In winter, a bit of steam exits in the exhaust. In dry weather, nothing is seen. the exhaust is quieter than the mechanical noise.

@ Tanman...........our Dursley 6/1 is in an engine room in my shop. It's bolted to a large concrete block. The exhaust exits through the wall. I will try to describe the method..... Exhaust exits the engine via a straight length of 2" automotive exhaust pipe. About a foot from the engine is a length of flexible exhaust pipe. Then more 2" automotive pipe that exits the wall. At the wall exit is a panel of heavy sheet metal about 18" square (it's screwed to the plywood sheathing) with the pipe going through the centre.....loosely fit. Riveted to the panel is a 1 gallon paint can with its lid on, so it is sealed at both ends except the holes for the pipe. The holes in the can fit the pipe closely and are sealed with high temp caulking......the exhaust pipe goes through that and out into a muffler made of concrete block. the sheet metal does not got and it all has been working quite well for about a year.........Does not rattle or vibrate.
Sounds a bit shade tree, but looks quite fine and works.
Of course, YMMV

Tanman, I used short section of double wall 3 inch stove pipe where the exhaust goes through my wall, with a section of stainless bellows type flex before the wall.   On the outside of the wall, I used some silcone foam weatherstrip material from to fill the space between the 2 inch exhaust pipe and 3 inch stove pipe.  I then smeared high temp silicone over that to seal it weather tight.  Still good after 12 years+.   You mentioned an elbow; Id turn that down, not up.  If exhaust fumes are an issue, read the next paragraph.

Listerational-  I concur with Hughes's earth muffler approach as being a great way to eliminate soot and carbon.  It removes the high pressure pulses so no soot or oil vapor will be pulsing out the pipe.   There are lots of ways to build this with materials you might have on hand.  I used a version of this, the leach field muffler, for my neighbor's DES 8/1 setup.  That eliminates any hot exhaust and exhaust odors as well as sound- there is surprisingly little air flow once the exhaust is fully cooled by the earth and leach field rock.  It was cheap to build while the septic leach field system was being built.  Because of the leach field rock surface area/filtering this is one of the best methods where exhaust fumes might be a problem for nearby spaces. 

Best Wishes,


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