Author Topic: SR2 starter replacement  (Read 13067 times)

KC7NOA

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #90 on: April 26, 2022, 01:32:34 PM »
With these old engines most parts canot be b ought off the shelf. Not sure where in the world you are but you will now need to find a dealer in Lister parts or hope that a reader has a spare pulley. Put up a pic of what the pulley looks like now, it may be able to be repaired. Look online at the usual auction sites as well.

I dont think the pulley is a Lister part -- i think the Generator head is a cheap China knock off -- but old, none the less ...

KC7NOA

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #91 on: April 26, 2022, 06:37:07 PM »
Well, I found numbers




mikenash

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #92 on: April 26, 2022, 08:07:12 PM »
Yes, picture of the pulley would help

If it's just a pulley for an A,B or C-section belt - they're effectively "off the shelf" with systems such as Taper-Lok to attach to the shaft

if you know:  Belt size (A, B. c etc), number of belts, diameter of shaft and dimensions of keyway - any company that supplies drive components can help you with pulleys and centre inserts such as a Taper-Lok or similar; and an machinist can bore/key-cut that centre insert to fit the shaft and the key

Picture will be a good start.  Good luck

32 coupe

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #93 on: April 26, 2022, 09:34:48 PM »

If the pulley is still good you can buy just the center section.
I believe it is called a sheve.....others will know.

Ebay is good for old stock parts.
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KC7NOA

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #94 on: April 27, 2022, 04:12:02 AM »
The pulley had a crack in the toothed area ... not sure if it's ok



Not a good picture of the pully -- sprocket.

It's a 22h200 SD R .... but im falling short on the part numbers for the sheve

broncodriver99

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #95 on: April 27, 2022, 05:37:32 AM »
The pulley number comes up as an off the shelf TB woods pulley and looks to be available from many sources online, it is called a timing pulley because it is cogged. The numbers denote (22) Teeth (H) Heavy Duty (200) Belt width 200mm/2" (SD) Bushing type

The bushing number looks to be SD1-1/4V, is that correct? What are the rest of the numbers/letters? I believe that is a QD(quick detachable) series bushing. That comes up as a Martin SD size bushing for 1-1/4" shaft with a 1/4" keyway. Is the shaft of the generator 1-1/4"? That looks to be readily available as well.

cobbadog

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #96 on: April 27, 2022, 12:05:44 PM »
So is the pulley broken or the taper lock. I have not seen one before so not sure if the first part is meant to be in 2 parts. If the lead posted above does not amount to finding the part then that taper section would be repairable if not easily made on a lathe.
Definately a cog belt pulley with those teeth.
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KC7NOA

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #97 on: April 27, 2022, 05:41:02 PM »
There are 2 parts ... the inner part broke while I was trying to seperate the two ...

I'm still trying to find out what the generator head "IS" .... besides  a permanent magnet generator that is synchronous at 1800 rpm

cobbadog

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #98 on: April 28, 2022, 12:18:36 PM »
It just may well be a Chinesium brand which will make it tricky to identify without a plate on it. It sounds as if that type of pulley is available so it should be able to be replaced, the centre part is an easy turn up on a lathe but the pulley if damaged will need to be replaced before it flys apart.
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KC7NOA

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #99 on: April 28, 2022, 03:48:59 PM »
The pulley number comes up as an off the shelf TB woods pulley and looks to be available from many sources online, it is called a timing pulley because it is cogged. The numbers denote (22) Teeth (H) Heavy Duty (200) Belt width 200mm/2" (SD) Bushing type

The bushing number looks to be SD1-1/4V, is that correct? What are the rest of the numbers/letters? I believe that is a QD(quick detachable) series bushing. That comes up as a Martin SD size bushing for 1-1/4" shaft with a 1/4" keyway. Is the shaft of the generator 1-1/4"? That looks to be readily available as well.

Sd1-1/4 seems correct,

1-1/4 shaft with 1/4" keyway

KC7NOA

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #100 on: April 28, 2022, 07:10:10 PM »
Making progress, thenose is off ..
 I think some one left out a oil soaked felt gasket...



But I have numbers on a bearing .... and it's bad .. it wobbles .



88507 PEER ROMANIA

mikenash

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #101 on: April 29, 2022, 09:03:56 AM »
Google "taper roller bearing on adaptor sleeve"  Might be 35mm?  Measure the outside diameter of the bearing & the diameter of the shaft, cut it off in pieces & buy another one from any bearing shop.  It's two bits:  A bearing with a tapered I/D and a sleeve with a tapered O/D and a nut to tighten it.  Have a google - you'll see.  They usually work in pairs "against" each other - so maybe there's another one at the other end too?  Good luck

cobbadog

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #102 on: April 29, 2022, 11:47:00 AM »
Thanks for the extra info Mike about the bearing and lock ring. I was going to ask if it was a screw on or shrink fit lock ring. Only way off for that lock ring if hitting the outter edge with a cold chisel doesl expand it enough is to cut it off. But again heat might be you friend on it too.
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KC7NOA

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #103 on: April 29, 2022, 12:16:40 PM »
The realy rusted part reminds me of a lock nut on a f
4wd front wheel spindle ... with locking tab
« Last Edit: April 29, 2022, 02:48:23 PM by KC7NOA »

mikenash

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Re: SR2 starter replacement
« Reply #104 on: April 30, 2022, 12:58:00 AM »
Thanks for the extra info Mike about the bearing and lock ring. I was going to ask if it was a screw on or shrink fit lock ring. Only way off for that lock ring if hitting the outter edge with a cold chisel doesl expand it enough is to cut it off. But again heat might be you friend on it too.

Cool.  I'd encourage you to google around and look at SKF sites for taper sleeves etc - then you'll see what you have there

It's in the nature of bearing races that they are very hard - and brittle.  Once you're sure you know what the bits you have are - you can geit it off the shaft by cutting it into pieces.  the outer race will be easy - if you cut it in two place at 180 degrees, it'll just fall off.  Ditto the lightweight cage and rollers.  If you can undo the locking ring or cut it off - then the taper of the inside of the inner race of the bearing and the outside of the sleeve (the two tapers that lock together) will work in your favour.  With a bit of penetrating oil and patience you may simply be able to tap the bearing last part - the inner race - in towards the windings.  Even a mm or two will be enough to break the taper between the two bit so they'll come off the shaft.

the way to get your head around it is to think of the thread and the nut as "pulling" the tapered sleeve through the bearing to tighten it onto the shaft

Anyway, if you have to cut off the inner race - you can cut 90% of the way through it  (so you don't cut into the shaft - although it won't matter if you do a bit) in three or four places and then give it a few decent smacks with a hammer and cold chisel to exploit its brittle-ness - and it should just fly apart

Wear goggles or face protection - bearing shards are unbelievably sharp

Good luck