SR2 starter replacement

[cobbadog]

Good description of the lock ring and locking tab washer. I took a closerr look and agree that is what it looks like.

[KC7NOA]

Kinda looks like threads ....

[cobbadog]

A little die grinder could get in there nice and close to clean up the thread then try to undo the lock ring. If no go a good smack with the cold chisel will release the lock ring to undo.

[KC7NOA]

The lock ring ( the thing with the fingers ) is still playable

The Nut ( I still think it's a nut ) is still stuck ... I know I have 2 24" pipe wrench,  but currently can only find one.

So tried with a large set of vicegrips and one pipe wrench ... no movement yet. So I put some heat to the nut again and sprayed it with penetration oil ... then walked away.

I dont want to cut it off ... it might be a pain finding a replacement nut with the head still unknown to me as to who made the darn thing.

[mikenash]

The lock ring ( the thing with the fingers ) is still playable

The Nut ( I still think it's a nut ) is still stuck ... I know I have 2 24" pipe wrench,  but currently can only find one.

So tried with a large set of vicegrips and one pipe wrench ... no movement yet. So I put some heat to the nut again and sprayed it with penetration oil ... then walked away.

I dont want to cut it off ... it might be a pain finding a replacement nut with the head still unknown to me as to who made the darn thing.

Fair call.  But I suspect you'll find that the taper sleeve, the nut, the locking ring and the bearing are all just "off the shelf" components.  If you took that photo to a bearing shop and asked them . . . .

[KC7NOA]

I have the sheave and bearing already on the way ..

I'd rather have a roller bearing - bearing, but iv got what's called a deep Grove bearing on the way

[mikenash]

I have the sheave and bearing already on the way ..

I'd rather have a roller bearing - bearing, but iv got what's called a deep Grove bearing on the way

I'd be surprised if your gen head was doing more than 3000 RPMs, so a deep-groove ball-bearing will be just fine.  If you have bought a ball bearing and a housing  - it may be that the dimension from the base of the bearing to the centre of the shaft - effectively your deck height - is not the same as the original unit as they will be a different kind of housing.  Anyway, sounds like progress.  I will watch with interest

[cobbadog]

Good work on sourcing a new bearing and nut n lock ring. My mistake calling it a lock ring, your right in calling it a nut that is usually tightened using a "C" spanner. The same style nut is used on the rear stub axles on my David Brown tractor. The nut is the part that you can hit with the cold chisel to make it grow in OD and release from the thread with no damage to the thread. Even to the point that you can keep going around the nut and make a few "V" indents to make it let go. The same principle is used to release a round collr on an axle that is heated up and shrink fitted.

[KC7NOA]

I have not sourced a new nut yet ... but probably should

2 x 24" pipe wrenches with cheaters ... and it fought every mm of the way

[cobbadog]

To be honest, I think that nut is still good enough to go again. Once torqued up using the C spanner you only need to fold a tab over to lock it in place. If you do not have a C spanner they are so easy to make by tracing the outline of the nut onto paper and thi gives you the pattern. Then enough 3/16" piece of sheet steel and a cutter and a file and then a length of pipe on the end of a short handle.

[mikenash]

To be honest, I think that nut is still good enough to go again. Once torqued up using the C spanner you only need to fold a tab over to lock it in place. If you do not have a C spanner they are so easy to make by tracing the outline of the nut onto paper and thi gives you the pattern. Then enough 3/16" piece of sheet steel and a cutter and a file and then a length of pipe on the end of a short handle.

Also traditionally tightened with a cold-chisel and hammer - although perhaps I shouldn't admit . . .

However a new sleeve and nut will cost almost nothing and, being free of rust & having smooth surfaces, will take up an even, gradual tension to tighten up 'just nice" - just imho

[cobbadog]

Yes, I have been guilty of using the cold chisel on the final drives of the David Brown tractor but they were quite large in diameter as well. It came with all the warnings of how you MUST tighten them with a C spanner so they are very tight. Ignored and tightened them as tight as possible using the same tool they were undone with, a cold chisel but a blunt one.

[KC7NOA]

I'm thinking a new nut would be best ... it came off hard to the last thread and they are flattened, so is the shaft thread. Possibly requiring a pipe wrench to get tight on the bearing -- probably not a good idea ... I would be clueless to how tight the nut was .. and perhaps that would not matter.

[KC7NOA]

To be honest, I think that nut is still good enough to go again. Once torqued up using the C spanner you only need to fold a tab over to lock it in place. If you do not have a C spanner they are so easy to make by tracing the outline of the nut onto paper and thi gives you the pattern. Then enough 3/16" piece of sheet steel and a cutter and a file and then a length of pipe on the end of a short handle.

I had to use 2 24" pipe wrenches to get it off.. and was hard to turn until it came off ...
I need to find out what size/threat it was to get it to a point that i can finger thread it on .. and use the lock washer to keep it from coming off.

[mikenash]

To be honest, I think that nut is still good enough to go again. Once torqued up using the C spanner you only need to fold a tab over to lock it in place. If you do not have a C spanner they are so easy to make by tracing the outline of the nut onto paper and thi gives you the pattern. Then enough 3/16" piece of sheet steel and a cutter and a file and then a length of pipe on the end of a short handle.

I had to use 2 24" pipe wrenches to get it off.. and was hard to turn until it came off ...
I need to find out what size/threat it was to get it to a point that i can finger thread it on .. and use the lock washer to keep it from coming off.

Pardon me for sticking my oar in . . .

But, unless I have mis-interpreted the photos, I'd say you have a threaded taper-sleeve-and-nut assembly on that shaft?  Perhaps I have that wrong?  If that is what it is, the sleeve and bearing will come off the shaft, and the sleeve, nut and locking-ring would be sold as a unit by any bearing supplier

Good luck either way