Lister Engines > Listeroid Engines

Big end wear or damage

<< < (3/10) > >>

Yellownev:
Hi Cujet et al,

Nothing to report sadly as the cold weather and a few health issues have kept me away from the boat and the engine.

Thank you for the advice re the shims and the option of removal to possibly account for wear. I presume the Plastiguard tolerance check would be the guide to correct clearance along with a micrometer measurement. I have asked a boat engineer to come take a look but they are very busy as canal boats seem to have attracted a lot of purchase interest over the last couple of years as people stay local or realise their dreams sooner than planned.

If he does not show up soon it will be me and my spanner’s ( wrenches) and your guidance. It’s a race of the engineer or the warmer weather !

Thanks for following up on my initial ask for guidance.

Take care

Nev

cujet:
I'll bet we can guide you through the job. Post some high resolution pictures of the bearing shells, the crank journal and the con-rod, with the shims currently installed. With proper supplies, it's an afternoon's job.

I may be possible that with appropriate care, cleaning and effort, the crank may clean up and be dimensionally OK, and the new rod bearing can be made to work properly. I have heard of this before, with excellent results. Although I've not had it happen to my engines.

I would also check the other rod bearing. If one let go, maybe the other is not far behind.

EDIT: It's not uncommon to occasionally replace rod bearings on some engines (think BMW six cylinders) and I'd consider it normal maintenance.

Yellownev:
Hi all,

Not sorted yet as an engineer I contacted got in touch and is visiting a week on Tuesday to have a look ( and a feel) so for now I’ve deferred until an expert gets a look. I am looking to source gaskets for the crankcase door and the water elbows from the cylinders … I’ve dropped a message to Stationary engine parts in the hope they can sell me them or source them.

Sorry it’s not a progressive update and thanks for  engagement so far.

I’ll update when the engineer has had a look !

Thanks again

Nev

cujet:
You may not have to pull the cylinder. I suggest cleaning up the journal and measuring first.

Yellownev:
Well it looks like I’ll be having a go as the engineer put me off …..

I’ve a question before ‘I go in’ what will be the nut size that I’ll need to remove….. I ask as I’m unsure if the nuts are imperial or whitworth…. I’ve read around and my understanding  is whitworth were ‘ imperial’ in measurement but a spanner/socket  size up on imperial as the size is the bolt not the nut so 3/8 whitworth would need a 1/2 inch socket ? I do hope I’m not over thinking this ?

One other thought what is the torque setting if there is one for the cap nuts ?

I did say at the off I’m on a learning curve so please stick with me if you can !

Nev

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page