Lister Engines > Original Lister Cs Engines

Lister CE endplay adjustment

(1/3) > >>

Hi all

 After reassembly of the 1950 Lister CE there is resistance to getting the flywheel moving, once the the wheels start to move it is smooth. It starts fine and runs well, when the engine is coming to a stop it seems to bind when the wheel are just about to stop moving.

 This engine seems to have been given a complete rebuild in the distant past and then left for at least 20 years. Ring gap is perfect, cylinders sleeves look new, no ware on lifter springs, main bearings look new. I replaced the rod bearings and checked the tolerance with plastic gauge.

So I not sure if it is normal for the engine to be stiff to get moving, or did I miss a step on reassembly. I did not see any way to adjust the endplay, I loosened both side covers and backed them off a mm and it did not make a difference.

 Any thoughts..


and i am sure you know all the following, but just in case

when you assemble the engine, (a bit late now) i made a practice of installing bit by bit
and turning the crankshaft between the addition of each bit, that way if something seemed to add
too much drag i knew the culprit.

i am not familiar with the CE, does it use plain main brgs or tapered roller?
if it is plain brgs, you might remove the rod cap and rotate the crank back and forth to see if it turns freely, if not, maybe the mains or thrust washers or a bit tight?

how long have you ran the engine since rebuild?

if you are concerned i would highly recommend doing some exploratory surgery to see if you can find something that is running a bit tight.  better to err on the side of caution sort of thing.

besides what would it hurt to open it up and have a look?

you could run it for a while and the remove the side cover and use a laser temp gun to investigate whether or not something is running hot, or noticeably warmer than you think it should be, might be a way of directing you to the issue... that is if there is an issue and it is just not a bit snug because it is new and not broken in?

i have seen a lot of engines that were tight as hell, that just needed to be run in, afterwhich they were just fine... but it is hard to say not being there as "tight" is a subjective term and can have vastly different meanings between as many different folks.

lastly, just for clarification

after it has been running and shut down
can you grab a flywheel and rotate the engine over a bit by hand? maybe with both hands?

or is it so tight that you have to pry it over with a pry bar or a length of wood or really lay into it?

and after it cools down is it harder to turn over or easier?

bob g

 thanks for the reply..
 It's prybar stiff cold or hot, no difference. Once it starts to move there is not much resistance. My plan is to take the head off and start from there, I guess just keep dissembling until there is a noticeable change in resistance.


if you pull the head and before you dive in further

check the cylinder bore carefully for any signs of rubbing parallel with the crankshaft

if the rod is bent (not likely, but hey easy to check) there might well be some signs of rubbing a shiny swipe
on the liner or cylinder that is facing one of the other flywheel.

that would make it a bit tight, and if you see a swipe of shiny that looks like it has polished off the crosshatch or working on doing so, it might well be a sign of a bent connecting rod.  its not likely, but check it out, the rod may not be bent but the small end bushing might be cocked  and reamed out of line with the big end.

like i say, not likely, but certainly something to check out.

does you engine use plain main brgs?  i am unfamiliar with your engine, so i have to ask
also can you determine if there is some end play in the crankshaft, easy enough to check out by prying
"to and fro" with a pry just check to see if it has some, how much is unimportant at this point, just make sure there is a bit.

i am sure there are others that will chime in that have vastly more experience than i, maybe they can come up with other things to check while you are on this adventure.

bob g


 I checked the end play and there is zero end play, my thinking now is that when I reinstalled the cam gear on the drive shaft it must have been driven on too tight. This would cause the the binding even with the end housings being backed off a mm. The cam gear had to be heated with map gas to get it off and to reinstall.

 This would have to be it, as the only other way to adjust the endplay would be to shim the non cam side end housing. There are no drive shaft shims on this engine just the collar of the main bearings.

 I reassembled the engine last November, had taken pictures of the whole process but unfortunately they were lost when my phone quite working. So going off memory of the reassembly process..



[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

Go to full version