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Welding from a Listeroid/ST generator rig

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Martin:
Thanks Bruce and 38AC for taking the time to explain this method. I think I get it and I will give it a try - not immediately mind you, as I'm in the middle of another project that needs to be finished first.

Bruce, looking at the picture of your flywheel, I can see the counterweight in line with the key slot...the larger of the three "spokes". My engine is from Powerline and the flywheel doesn't look like that at all - see attached photo.

At first glance it looks like there is no counterweight until I saw a hole in the back face of the flywheel rim roughly opposite the key slot. This hole is about 1/2" diameter and about 2 1/4" deep. It's cast, not drilled - it is not perfectly round like a drilled hole would be but rather rough. I always assumed that this hole was for balancing the flywheel, but could it be a lightening hole, to create the effect of a counterweight opposite? If so, it doesn't seem very much! Nothing like your friends 43oz counterweight. Is it possible that the counterweight on my engine is on the crank shaft, inside the engine casing, eliminating the need for a counterweight on the flywheel? I've got a vague memory of seeing something that looked like a counterweight on the crank last time I had the crank case door off...like you though...I can't quite remember! Nevertheless, whether the counterweight is built into the flywheels or on the crank, I would guess that this balancing method could be used. Any thoughts/comments?

Cheers.

Hmm...I'm having trouble posting my photo

Martin:
Here's the photo of my flywheel:

Martin:
38AC....I just watched the video of your Metro 6/1. If I can get mine running half as smoothly as that, I'll be very happy...

Cheers

BruceM:
Thanks for piping in, Butch. I forgot the essential alignment of TDC and counterweight position.  Yikes, that's critical.

Martin, it looks like you've got a machine with no counterweight on the flywheels, which means you need it on the crankshaft.  Better send a picture from the big door so we can see (and learn).  Also- what's the outer diameter of your flywheel?

Maybe 38AC can suggest how to best tune your balance.  I can only guess that I'd apply his same method only getting the two flywheels first balanced to have zero counterweight.  If it was a hopper you'd have the option of adding weight opposite TDC to the flywheels, or if possible, adding it internally to the counterweight.

One guy here many years ago got a zero counterbalance engine-  none internally or externally.  A real Rajkot surprise. 



Martin:
Bruce, my flywheels are 20" diameter. I've just had a look inside through the crank case door and the crank does indeed have counterweights. I took a few photos, which I'll share as soon as my wife has shrunk the pixels sufficiently to post them here...she's better at that sort of thing than I am!

I agree - it seems logical that I should remove the flywheels and balance them for zero counterweight and then put them on the engine and proceed as you and 38AC described.

From memory, I would say that my engine was a bit of a jumper when running at 850rpm.

Photos to follow.

Cheers.

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