Seized fuel pump

[Owenga]

Hi..
I started work on my CS6 , yesterday the lifter that works the fuel was jammed on the top of the stroke so I rotated the crank 180 and carefully tapped it down with the pump off, but it is tight so I’ll have to take the cam housing off and dismantle it.. Also I’m not sure how to set the governor etc to start.. I don’t think I’ll use the SOM it’s not in good shape. I should be able to find a modern belt drive alternator....

[mike90045]

keep careful track of any washers or spacers with the fuel pump, and don't mess with the plunger screw that rides on the lifter - that's what sets your fuel injection timing.

The lifter area needs oiling every time before you start the engine, then it won't stick anymore

[Owenga]

Hi mike..
Thanks for that, when you say timing screw ,is that the screw and locknut on the lifter?,,   if so what does the big grub screw above the cambearing do

[mike90045]

On mine, it's a screw & locknut on the pump plunger, and the lifter (I think) goes thru to the roller bearing on the cam

Mines a clone, and may be set up different, but don't casually twirl the screw or nut, because that is a critical setting.

In my attached clone pic, 43 is the lifter w/roller bearing
and 44 & 45 are the bolt and nut that set the pump timing.  if it gets changed, you have to go thru a whole procedure to measure and mark the flywheel and calculate where the injector timing mark gets chalked on, then you rock the flywheels back and forth, adjusting the screw&nut till the injector fires at the right time.

[38ac]

You may not be able to remove the governor housing without also moving the flywheel out,, big job that depends on which flywheels you have and how close they are to the bearing housings. If you have not already began that process I have freed up few of those lifters by removing the rotation stop screw and squirting some penetrant both in that hole and around the top. Once it moves just a bit it will quickly free up. use caution if you turn the engine to force it back up as you can shear the drive pin or bend the cam .  A couple small bars or large screwdrivers will usually pry the lifter back up so you vcan work the oil into it.

[listard-jp2]

As Butch said, it may not be necessary to remove the governor housing, but if you need to it is possible to remove the governor housing without stripping off the flywheel.
It can be done by removing the two long studs that hold the housing to the crankcase as the first step, its not easy but is doable, and is preferable to flywheel removal.
Once this housing is out of the way, if required you can even remove the camshaft on a single cylinder CS, without disturbing the flywheel.

P.S. It is nice to see you make a return Butch.

[38ac]

Thank you,
I should also have added in my reply that if you succeed with my method that you should pull the lifter all the way out and check the follower wheel as it is likely to be stuck also.

[listard-jp2]

Check the follower wheel as it is likely to be stuck also.

Which then usually causes a flat to be worn on the roller follower, if not caught soon enough, and if left long enough this will also destroy the I/P cam lobe..

Quite common to see this engines that are left outside and exposed to the elements, as this is an easy path into the engine for rain water.

[Owenga]

You guys are great..... I carefully worked the lifter up and down using the gap in flywheel and when I did get it out the roller was also seized!
I’m now wondering if I should proceed with mounting a fuel tank and starting it or would I be best to strip it down and rebuild it...
I also don’t know how to set the controls to start it .. The fuel pump has a 3 position cam on the control rod, and I want to check that the governor is functioning so that when it does start it won’t over rev....
Thanks for helping me,, it’s been great

[Owenga]

IT RUNS...... With a bit of coaxing she burst into life, the governor is seized but I kept the revs down with the control... 
question..... after 45years of storage the oil in the sump needs changing, what do we use for oil, I’m guessing lubrication has changed in the last 40 years..
I’m going to remove governor housing and carefully get the seized arm moving...
IM ALSO GOING TO HAVE A SORE ARM FOR A FEW DAYS FROM CRANKING..
I’d appreciate some advice on oil.... Thanks Daryl...

[mike90045]

I use 10-40 in mine, 'cause it's easier to crank when cold & the sump never really gets hot.