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timing adjustment for WVO to reduce carbon build up

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tyssniffen:
sorry, I know this has been discussed; I spent time searching but can't find a clear answer.

I know that the timing can/should be adjusted based on fuel type, and I thought I had succeeded at this, but I think I need to work harder at it.

One problem that I believe I'm creating is that I've always bought into the idea of starting and stopping on store bought diesel, and then switching over to WVO.  I've actually never succeeded at starting on WVO, perhaps due to my timing issue, or other variables. 

Still, I'm struggling with lots of carbon.   So I figure I need to tweak the timing... but what's the testing process?  How many turns on that nut under the pump per test?   Like, do I set the timing different a few degrees, run for 3 hours, pull the injector, see carbon, turn the nut (5 times?) run for 3 hours, pull the injector, look for carbon, over and over? 

Or am I just not switching back over to diesel soon enough? Does it need to be run on diesel to scrub it up for 30 minutes or something?   

Obviously, I'm flailing around here. 

mike90045:
I have a clear segment in my fuel line, and can see the pulses as the fuel pump sucks fuel. with no load, it takes me about 30 seconds to clear a segment of line which is guess is equivalent to the HP line length  .  And then you have to purge the pump volume too

Switching between diesel and oil, I'd wait 90 seconds to get a good purge of all the stuff, because the alternative of taking the lines apart and flushing by hand, is such a pain.   90 seconds of diesel can't be all that expensive.

And for sure, try the water injection to break up the carbon deposits,  I use a squirt bottle and just spray down the manifold

mike90045:
Lets define what version of WVO is being discussed ?

 raw sump oil from the fryer that's been strained.  often here, it's solid below 80F  (grease car, with tank heaters )
clear flowing, used and strained veg oil ?
veg oil that's been processed to remove the unburnable glycerin ? (bio-diesel)

mike90045:
Used fryer oil here is a solid  unless well heated  That's why I asked.

tyssniffen:
So, thanks for all the replies on this. To clarify some of the thread drift here: I am running very well strained and dry waste vegetable oil. It is not hydrogenated oil, and stays liquid to low temperatures.  Hydrogenated oil acts more like butter in that it is solid at room temperature, and then warmed comes to liquid. (Hydrogenated means Ďwith water... so, yuck)

I am also doing the water injection to try to deal with some of this carbon buildup. Running water at the same rate as fuel.

How I know Iíve got a lot of carbon buildup, is after maybe a handful of three hour runs, the next time I go to start, I can tell the injector is blocked. I can pull the injector quickly, clean it off, test it for good spray (not drip), put it all back together, wrap pretty easily. On store-bought diesel.

I am completely open to being convinced that I can run completely on WVO, but Iím obviously got something wrong that seems to stop me from succeeding at that. I live in northern California, where it only gets to freezing one day a year, so cold temperatures are not a serious problem.

Seams almost certain I have a timing issue with this kind of fuel. How do I figure out how to get my timing set up better?

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