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Author Topic: Generator alternator wiring  (Read 1321 times)

Theo Arn

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Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 03, 2020, 08:49:29 PM »
This is my first question so please be gentle with me!
I bought a chinese diesel generator it's running but.. there are no wires going anywhere. I know they are called L1,L2,R1 & R2 but how ho I wire them to a socket? It's an AVR brushed generator 110 and 240v I only want to use 240v. Hoping someone can elaborate thanks

scott p

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2020, 07:12:44 AM »
hello Theo Arn:  A couple of questions. Is the information you got on youtube specific to your generator? There are no sockets build in to the generator, say a normal 120 and a oddball 220 that you can test for power? Why do you say there are no wires going anywhere?
Do you have a multimeter to test for voltage?

mike90045

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2020, 07:50:38 AM »
This is the schematic for the generic ST head wiring, may not apply to your head, but somewhat the same idea


Theo Arn

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2020, 09:06:50 AM »
hello Theo Arn:  A couple of questions. Is the information you got on youtube specific to your generator? There are no sockets build in to the generator, say a normal 120 and a oddball 220 that you can test for power? Why do you say there are no wires going anywhere?
Do you have a multimeter to test for voltage?

Hi, the information I got is generic applies to brush generators. I worded the question badly there are wires and the video I watched was on how to check if a generator was working ie making power.  I have a link below to the video. Generator tests ok however there is a switch missing to select voltages there are 8 or 9 wires that attach to the switch. I was hoping I could just wire it to a socket from the wires in the alternator. Sorry I should have added more information.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC_LrrZcx38

scott p

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #4 on: July 07, 2020, 05:41:54 PM »
Hey:

It appears the information you require is covered in the youtube link where he explains the function of the two coils.

Still not understanding when you mention the switches. A switch is missing and there are 8 or 9 wires hanging in the breeze. Or are there two switches, one feeding off the other?

Theo Arn

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #5 on: July 07, 2020, 09:02:48 PM »
Hey:

It appears the information you require is covered in the youtube link where he explains the function of the two coils.

Still not understanding when you mention the switches. A switch is missing and there are 8 or 9 wires hanging in the breeze. Or are there two switches, one feeding off the other?

There are a few bits missing from the generator, charging voltage regulator, injector clamp, brushes and the 120/240 volt selector switch. The switch is missing and thats where the wires go. I think I should be able to wire 240 from the back of the generator I just dont know how and I don't want to kill myself :)

scott p

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #6 on: July 08, 2020, 08:34:16 PM »
All right so you have 8 or 9 wires that are hanging loose. If your wiring is similar to the schematic that Mike90045 posted. (Thanks for that) This is what I would do.

Others may have a different approach. Feel free to wade in. We donít want Theo Arn to kill himself.

First get the engine running, rig up a clamp for the injector and what ever else.

There is at least one Internet Company that specializes in brushes. Measure out the dimensions and wiring as close as possible to the brush holders you have and get some brushes. They can be shaved down to the size you need. How they connect electrically would be important. They may need to be contoured to fit the slip rings. A piece of emery cloth wrapped around the slip rings and the brushes sanded to fit.

If you cannot trace the wires coming out from the brush holders connect jumpers to the brush electrical connectors. Donít have the brushes connected to the slip rings. Apply some voltage to the jumpers such as a small amp battery charger. It would be wise to run your input through a weak fuse. Two of those 8 wires should now have voltage.

What ever you do, do not allow any of those 8 wires to short each other. Make up some kind of holder that well and firmly isolates the wires from each other such as a piece of wood with 8 holes in it. Naturally you want to label the two wires you have isolated.

Now you will be able sort some more wires. Apply the brushes to the slip rings and start the engine. Apply that battery charger to the two slip ring wires you have isolated. Polarity doesnít matter. You should have two sets of two wires with a voltage that is very close to each other and fairly high maybe even close to 120 volts. Those would be L1, L2, R1, R2 in your mind set. If all went well you have now traced 6 of those wires.


That leaves the two remaining wires that should have a voltage between them. According to the schematic those would be for the full wave bridge that rectifies to DC. I cannot offer what that voltage should be. I would guess around 30/50 volts.

You may have another set of wires for charging a battery. That would be a low voltage.

If there are any electronic black boxes in your system they are beyond me. All the generators I have donít have that sort of regulation.

To get 220 volts L1 L2 R1 R2 would be run in series as pointed out in the youtube vid. Any problems let us know. One step at a time no smoke.

Theo Arn

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2020, 02:57:59 PM »
So I managed to get a set of brushes connected them up and I have power,120 odd volts on both L2 AND R2. The neighbor I got the generator off had the old switch and he  had a diagram of sorts he made so the switch is back on but.. the switch doesn't have any locking mechanism its fubar as you can't select a voltage. No power at the plug which isn't a big surprise. Whats my next move? Thanks for all the help so far

AdeV

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2020, 04:33:13 PM »
If I've read ScottP's reply, above, correctly.... you should join L2 to R1; then measure the voltage from L1 to R2. This should be 240v or thereabouts.

Before you do that; just to confirm, your 120v readings are L1->L2 and R1->R2, is that correct? If L2->R2, then something fishy is going on...

Without being able to see details of your switch/socket wiring, I don't think we can diagnose further: Can you take some photos of the switch (front & back), and maybe a diagram showing how you've wired it together, and attach them to a reply (use the "Attachments and other options" link, below the message edit box, when you make a reply. Also, please reduce the size of any photos to something sensible: 800x600 or 1024x768 or similar, thanks.)
Cheers!
Ade.
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1x Lister CS Start-o-Matic (complete, runs)
0x Lister JP4 :( - Sold to go in a canal boat.

scott p

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2020, 05:47:37 PM »
And here is my two cents worth.

Ok, you have 120 volts at L2 and R2. What happened to L1 and R1? The switch you make reference too, what is it supposed to do? Why is it there?

What did the neighbor do with all the other wires? You need to be very clear what all the wires do. Map them out.

You will have either a four-wire or a three-wire system when all is said and done.

You donít need to go through that ďswitchĒ to get voltage to the plug if you are clear as to what each wire is for.

scott p

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #10 on: July 10, 2020, 06:00:11 PM »
fuses breakers to avoid smoke. When  you connect L2 To R1 run  L2 through a fuse and connect to R1. NO SMOKE  When ever you are unsure of the results cover your butt.

Theo Arn

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #11 on: July 10, 2020, 09:28:38 PM »
fuses breakers to avoid smoke. When  you connect L2 To R1 run  L2 through a fuse and connect to R1. NO SMOKE  When ever you are unsure of the results cover your butt.
The switch selects either 120 or 240 volts its on the front panel above the sockets however the switch is loose inside, it does nothing. I will get some photos over the weekend. some of the wires seem attached to a trip switch or circuit breaker. some appear to be attached to what I now know is a bridge rectifier. There is also a circuit for low oil sensor that kills the engine. It's hard to explain and hopefully the photos will help. Theres not much room or stretch on the wires. Tony the guy that sold it to me said the 9 pin switch costs around 100 so I would like to avoid buying one. Thanks

Theo Arn

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #12 on: July 10, 2020, 09:38:14 PM »
If I've read ScottP's reply, above, correctly.... you should join L2 to R1; then measure the voltage from L1 to R2. This should be 240v or thereabouts.

Before you do that; just to confirm, your 120v readings are L1->L2 and R1->R2, is that correct? If L2->R2, then something fishy is going on...

Without being able to see details of your switch/socket wiring, I don't think we can diagnose further: Can you take some photos of the switch (front & back), and maybe a diagram showing how you've wired it together, and attach them to a reply (use the "Attachments and other options" link, below the message edit box, when you make a reply. Also, please reduce the size of any photos to something sensible: 800x600 or 1024x768 or similar, thanks.)

Hi Ade
When I tested the power output L1 & L2 made 120 volts as did R1 &R2. Depending on which way the leads were connected I got 120 volts or minus 120 volts . Connecting R1 & L1 the meter was reading 2 volts. I'll be taking some photos and show what I have done so far. As I have two 120 volts I'm hoping its worth sorting out
Tom

scott p

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #13 on: July 11, 2020, 06:42:59 AM »
Well, sounds like you already have a functional generator with much of the wiring already in place. It will interesting to see what the nine- pin switch looks like.

At this point If all it does is switch from 120 to 220 I donít see why you need it. Curious about you mentioning you got a minus 120-volt when you tested the L1/L2 lead. That sounds like DC rather than AC.

Theo Arn

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Re: Generator alternator wiring
« Reply #14 on: July 11, 2020, 08:40:16 AM »
Well, sounds like you already have a functional generator with much of the wiring already in place. It will interesting to see what the nine- pin switch looks like.

At this point If all it does is switch from 120 to 220 I donít see why you need it. Curious about you mentioning you got a minus 120-volt when you tested the L1/L2 lead. That sounds like DC rather than AC.
I was getting minus or plus 120 volts depending which way i attached the leads, red to L1 and R1 gave the negative reading and L2 and R2 gave the normal reading. L1 and R1 gave 2 volts