New waste oil Burner.

[veggie]

Thanks, very useful information about WVO vs. WMO.
Being that I have lots of WVO and zero used engine oil, I feel comfortable building a
small burner for the WVO. I want to have some form of easy clean-out.
Perhaps placing the burn pot in a removable ash tray.

[mike90045]

Here, what is called "steel wool" is hair fine fibers of steel, which actually burn and rust up real easy. 

Something from a boat yard called Brass Wool (for scrubbing finish and crud off boats without leaving iron bits to create rust streaks) wouldn't oxidize as fast, but may melt from heat.   Maybe stainless wool ?  or something like coarse stainless chips & spirals from a machine lathe

[veggie]

What about a blend with a small amount of gasoline?
Add a bit of RUG to the oil an see if it wicks up the rope.

One idea for a metal wick is the battery ground straps used in cars.
Some use a length of braided copper strap. Would make a beautiful green flame 

[veggie]

 Ok .... the Blend idea is cancelled until further notice 

[veggie]

I agree, when playing with red hot housings the presence of gasoline is reason for concern.

[AdeV]

Hi Glort and all,

I've been discussing winter heating with my co-renters here at my workshop (= medium sized warehouse, about 300sq/m give or take, that's 3200sq/ft ish in USA money).... we have many gallons of waste engine oil (and some waste veg oil), and I'm pretty sure I can get a near unlimited supply of WVO from the many local garages around the area. So my thinking is, a nice big oil burner chucking out megawatts (ok, ok, kilowatts...) of heat, which we can use to at least take the frost off the roof in winter...

I've read this thread a couple of times, and I just wanted to make absolutely sure: There's nothing inside that elbow, except for the end of the fuel delivery line, is that right? No cup or plate or dish or bowl or other contrivance to hold the fire in? Literally just weld the elbow together, drill some air holes in the right place, stick a fuel line in through one of them; light it off and walk away (essentially)?

Apologies if I missed something obvious....

Does the air hole placement/pattern matter much? What about the size/number of holes in relation to the burner size? I presume there's a sweet spot, is it hard to find? 

How often does it need cleaning (i.e. after how many hours approx)? I realise there's probably a pile of variables which will affect that, but just a ballpark will be fine. Like, do I need to attend it daily or will weekly do?

What happens to Spencer's Ash? Does it not abrade the flue?  [newer members may not get that reference...]

Thanks!

PS: This design looks a LOT easier than my plan of taking an old propane cylinder, cutting a door and a flue, and running a drip-fed bowl burner inside.

[mike90045]

What about using a plumbing Tee instead of an elbow and voila, you have a cleanout at the bottom ?
 
Would stainless take the heat, or does it need steel parts ?

[gadget]

Here, what is called "steel wool" is hair fine fibers of steel, which actually burn and rust up real easy. 

Something from a boat yard called Brass Wool (for scrubbing finish and crud off boats without leaving iron bits to create rust streaks) wouldn't oxidize as fast, but may melt from heat.   Maybe stainless wool ?  or something like coarse stainless chips & spirals from a machine lathe

Mike,

I know you posted this a while ago but if your looking for a high temp wick, ceramic fibers work really well. The alcohol stove folks use it all the time.