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Author Topic: New waste oil Burner.  (Read 782 times)

veggie

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #15 on: June 11, 2020, 09:10:21 PM »

Not sure on my design yet. I'm still soaking up all the info I can find on burner design.
If I did go with a pressurized air system I think I would pull air from my air compressor receiver and regulate it down to the required pressure.
That way I could use the regulator to tune the air side of the system.
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glort

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #16 on: June 12, 2020, 07:24:19 AM »
The Tube was just what I had lying around and I know the flame will travel a long way in a tube anyway.
It really should have a secondary air inlet so the flame will burn shorter.  All my vids are pretty much demonstrations  rather than final products. The variety and range of things people have used the Burners for is amazing.  I would have never even thought of a Grain Dryer but thats what a Guy In Argentina has been doing about 7 years now. Used to spend a LOT of his income on LPG. Now he uses old engine oil and it made a HUGE difference to his profitability and the amenity of of his family.
His burner is about 250Kw and the regular blown type.

You are spot on though and this is always something I have thought of.  So many people want to duct the flue outside as soon as possible where it flows a lot of heat.  I would do a Flue like you say, run it as long as possible.  You could also have a fan blowing along the length closer to the fire to drive off more heat.

You would have to provide a coupling so you could have a place to open it up for cleaning which shouldn't be a problem. Cold flue will condense a lot of soot but if you burn the oil clean and only have to clean it at the end of each season, so what?

The other thing I would do if I was building an indoor heater is provide an outside air inlet.  A fire with a flue will suck air up the flue which means the house is negatively pressurized and will pull air in through cracks around doors and windows.   The way I want to do my setup is duct outside air through the heat ex changer and into the house so the house is pressurized with warm air. I'm going to put probably a truck air filter on the intake to keep the air clean as we have a bit of a dust problem where we are so positively pressurizing the air to force the air out with clean air will be an advantage and it's easy to set it up instead of returning the air through the HE.... which should really have a filter anyway to stop the dust catching on the fins.



For a small 3 Kw Burner, I really think a spray ( compressed air) system is overkill.  The other thing that comes to mind, is it going to be OK to have your Compressor kick in the middle of the Night? If the shed and neighbors are far enough away, no problem. My compressor although a Proper one with a separate motor and belt driven head makes quite a racket and even in a closed shed would be heard at night. Your setup may be a lot different.

You have me interested in this now though. when I  get back home I might have a crack at a small 30-40mm ( what ever I have ) tube burner.  From memory the gauge of the metal I have is pretty light but I can set up a bit of metal like a " Glow Plug" to get around that.
I have the Technology!  :0)

I tend to think even the burner I have now could be made to go down to a pretty low output. Another thing I want to do when I get back is actually measure what the thing is running at. I think I can get it pretty close to the 10Kwh target but I'm happy it can do a lot more as well if I want it to .

A 30/40mm tube with maybe an 8- 10mm primary air hole should run pretty low.  Between that and a short pump cycle on the fuel, should run at a low output as long as it will sustain.



mikenash

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #17 on: June 14, 2020, 08:57:59 AM »
I have been playing with a waste-oil burner myself with the objective of building something that can turn waste oil into clean heat in an off-grid situation (no blowers but maybe a we peristaltic pump if needed?)

Initial results are really good - controllable & clean once the paint is burnt off lol

Please see my new topic in "waste engine oil" if you are interested

Cheers, Mike

glort

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #18 on: June 23, 2020, 06:59:47 AM »

Today I fitted the L Burner up underneath the gas water heater tank and gave it a fire up.

First thing was it was a bitch to start. Couldn't figure out what was making it so hard to start for a while. I wondered if the smaller flue through the heater was too Restrictive?  I had put a short piece of large  ( 200mm)  pipe on top to help with the draw but putting my hand over the top showed the gas exit speed was very low. I went and fetched the original longer and smaller piece of Flue I originally tested with and precariously sat it on top.  Straight away the thing started roaring and took off.

Lesson 1 one learned.
No problem, I will need to duct the flue anyway.

It is pretty cold and windy here today and the wind did upset the flame Consistency somewhat so the thing will need to be at least semi enclosed. No problem there either, was thinking of that for aesthetics and  fire protection as well.

I am thinking that the amount of heat going into the water and the efficiency is a lot less than I thought.  I believe I am burning at around 10Kwh but getting about  half or less of that energy into the water.  Haven't measured yet but going on the heat up time and the temp rise I am estimating, seems this thing isn't as over built for the job as I thought.

Other lesson learned was that my Pulse Fuel pump does not cut off the fuel in the off Cycle.  I left the thing running at a previous setting and went out and found the burner near full of oil.  I had put the fuel drum up on a retaining wall which was only about 600mm higher than the burner and thought I could see fuel trickling in on the off Cycle but thought it was draining out the pipe as it did on the other setup.

Lesson 3 is that this thing works really well in batch Mode! The burner was about 90% full of oil and continued to burn. I took the pump out all together and it kept going along quite happily on what was in there.  It's still running atm and burning very clean which surprises me.  As the oil burns out and the thing gets hotter it may run a bit richer as it was doing earlier but  the amount of smoke is minimal and you have to have the right background to even see it.  Right now all I can see is heat haze.  To cure the smoke all it needs is another couple of secondary air holes which I was going to do but got distracted with the water heater setup and forgot.  Adding those will probably give the thing a bit more power with a more efficient burn. I certainly wasn't far off the mark with the Eyeballing I did when I built the thing!

My initial thought of stacking another heater on top of this one seems creditable. I'm a bit surprised how much heat is coming out into the flue and how hot it's getting. Having another tank on top to capture some of this heat and provide additional needed flue length would be worthwhile I think. There seems to be enough heat escaping to make capture worth while and if that provides the required additional draft as well, then double bonus. The other big benefit would be more heat storage. The way the thing is running now though, I'b be happy to leave it run all night.

This is a commercial heater I'm using  so I thought the efficency might be better. That said, I am possibly blowing a lot more heat through it than it was designed for so it may just be unable to transfer all the energy at the rate it's getting it. If the cold water was fed in the top heater where the gas may be cooler but the temp difference with the water would be the greatest, that might make some worthwhile gains.

Other thing this has shown me is my welding is good, no leaks on the thing anywhere even with the burner full.  I was going to fill it with water when I finished it but I wanted to fire it up and was more concerned about having to wait for the thing to dry than the time to test it.

The batch burn feature could be very useful. If one wanted this as a primary water heater, all one would have to do would be put in a measured amount of oil, set the thing going and that would be it. I am planning on running the heating setup with a header tank A la Lister thermosyphon style with no pressurisation so in a stand alone heating setup , this would be fine. If one gave the thing a bit too much fuel batch heating and the water boiled, no big deal . Might also be good for other heating applications where you set it going and it will burn for whatever time then go out when the fuel is depleted.  I'm watching the thing now out my office window and it's running perfectly. I expect the water should start boiling presently and I'll see the thing start to steam.

Now I have tested the setup and learned plenty from it, next thing will be to couple up a Pump and a heater core and start pushing the heat into the house. I Pulled out a heater core and AC evaporator the other day  from a car but left it at dads place.  I think I have another heater core here so I'll try and find that and put it in front of a Tube fan I have which should pull more than adequate air though anyway.
The output/ temp rise of the water is lower than I expected but as I'm intending to use this setup as a pretty constant running heater, I'm still unsure as to how much heat I'm actually going to need. I think 5 KW should be plenty of heat when supplied constantly and once the house is really heat soaked, should not take that much too keep it warm enough.  I don't run the heat a lot during the day anyhow, it's mainly night when it is needed.

After all this, I got my power bill today.  My all electric house is costing me a whopping $3.17 a day to run ATM being the worst solar time of winter.  Over a dollar of that is " connection fees" rather than usage. That's heating, cooking, hot water etc and this is the worst generation solar months here. What's more, while I was away,  one of the solar inverters tripped out and I wasn't getting any power from that but I'm still in front with my over all consumption.  Only just and we are drawing more than supplying atm but I anticipate this will only go another month then I'll be back to over production and will catch up again.   Just waiting on the tractor I bought to arrive and I'll use that to lift up another 6Kw of panels on the ideal side of the house which should help a lot next winter.


I have changed my mind on using the L burner for a patio heater.  I need something that's going to look the part and I won't be able to make a silk purse out of this sow's ear. I'd like to convert a wood heater but they are hard to get here. I'd like to get a wood heater to test and convert for indoor use as well . I just spent 10 days up at my fathers place cutting wood and that's more than enough effort.
 Did a couple of trees that were up my Thigh lying flat on the ground and turning timber that large into little blocks you can put in a stove is a lot of damn work!  I'm hoping it will be enough to see him through till I get back up there in about 3-4 weeks but I know how he goes through it.
So much easier to get oil and run that through a bit of screen to get the crap out and burn that.

For the verandah heater I am going to go back to a design I fabbed up some time back which is a longer, wider burner.  This works on a pre heat design where the burner is a piece of Sq Tube  with another piece over the top where the air and fuel comes in so it is preheated and should hopefully be pretty much a gas by the time it gets to the bottom.  This will give more of a wood or gas fire effect and I can put a stainless steel facade on it and build it into a wall like a fire place so it looks right.  The oil tank, and blower can go behing and be out of site and the thing should throw good heat.


For the purpose intended for the water heater, I think this design is a winner.  I don't think I'll need to go any lower in power output other than just damping this one down a bit. with another heater on top to increase efficiency and energy storage, this should be a practical and very workable setup. Should get the power bill much lower next winter as well and recoup it's cost which I am always Mindful of.

Looks like it just hit the boil so I'll go take some water out of it and water the weeds to get rid of them and give it a refil.

glort

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #19 on: June 26, 2020, 10:38:22 AM »

Been running the burner on the water heater last couple of days and have it dialed in right on 5Kw burn.  Pretty surprised how accurate it is.
I have the pump on the timer pulsing on for 1 sec every 25.  This seems to be what the burner is using.

O have ben starting it with a couple of sheets of paper towel and a quarter cup of Diesel.  It lights on oil but is much slower to get going. the diesel puts enough heat in the thing for the secondary burn to catch in a few minutes and then off she goes.
It's been totally set and forget. I was up on the roof putting up more panels today and working around it but I didn't touch the thing other than to drain off the water when it boiled to water and kill the weeds in the garden with. Made a few hundred liters of boiling water last couple of days.

I'll try to find my heater core over the weekend and fit that up with the pump.  Been one thing after another and have to organise an annual memorial next weekend seeing we can't have it at the usual pub so have to clean up all the experiments for that. I'll try and knock together a larger, longer heater  to put on the back verandah seeing we are pretty much in the middle of winter here and it gets cold early.

I added some more secondary holes into the burner but it didn't clean up the output that much which surprised me. It may be the flue through the heater itself is limiting the airflow and having  an effect due to the thing not being able to flow all the air it really wants.
I have the burn at spot on 5Kw but I think the losses would be 50%, maybe more so maybe I need to up the burn if not the efficiency. Will really have to wait till I get the thing set up in the house to tell where I need to go with it.

If I do need more heat I'll look at getting a couple of car gas tanks, put a 4" flue through the middle and join them together to give about 1500-2000MM of transfer area and weld some bolts through the flue pipe as well to disrupt the boundary layer gasses and aid in the heat transfer. I could make the burner and the heater one piece then which may aid in heat transfer as well.

So far this has proven to be a great design. It's very simple and straightforward to build, Cheap very, controllable and reliable and could be used for a Multitude of purposes. I think a slightly smaller dimensioned unit could be made to run at very low levels as evidenced by the downturn ratio this one has just by reducing the flue diameter. This actually seems more effective than fuel limiting as the thing will run over such a wide range of fuel in it but it does need to run hot.

veggie

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #20 on: June 26, 2020, 06:16:31 PM »
So far this has proven to be a great design. It's very simple and straightforward to build, Cheap very, controllable and reliable and could be used for a Multitude of purposes. I think a slightly smaller dimensioned unit could be made to run at very low levels as evidenced by the downturn ratio this one has just by reducing the flue diameter. This actually seems more effective than fuel limiting as the thing will run over such a wide range of fuel in it but it does need to run hot.

Which burner is this?
Do you have a picture or a Ytube video link.
Sounds like a design I would be interested to learn about.
You say it operated stable at low output ?
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glort

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #21 on: June 27, 2020, 01:46:18 AM »

This is still the L burner I am fiddling with Gary.  Pics are the 2nd post in the thread. I have just fitted it up and a gas water heater with the gas burner removed. I'll try and take some pics of the crude testing setup for you today.  I plan to do a Vid but I have been saying that for years and still haven't got the motivation back enough.  :0(  I have significant target date in mind though I'm going to aim for.

I made it out of a piece of Sq Tube I just cut a wedge out of and re welded it at a 90o angle. You could make it out of 2 Pieces of steel as well by welding them to the required shape.  It'[s a hell of a lot easier to do than some designs I have seen with puts and curves and baffles that have inherent design flaws I can see straight off.

The flue through the centre of the gas heater is only about 2" The flue pipe I was using  in the pics is about 4". The thing burned a lot faster and harder with the larger pipe which is now on the top of the heater but of course the heater flue is a restriction.  The thing has been burning at a very regular 5Kw.  I think the tube I built it from is 75mm so if one took that down to 40 or 50mm, then it should burn at even lower outputs.  Principal and operation would be precisely the same.

I had reservations about something going down to 2 Kw but after watching this thing for a few days, I'm now for more confident it could be done a lot easier than I thought.
The thing that still eludes me is getting these things to burn totally clean.  This will at times but for reasons that escape me, it's variable. It's NOT the amount of fuel in the thing being too much, tends to burn cleaner with more fuel than less.  The other thing I'll check today is deposits.  I ran it last night and it was not happy. I'm thinking it's just  carboned up. I have put over 35L of oil through it so far and haven't cleaned it so that's my odds on bet. All the draft burners tend to clag but that does not happen with the forced air types because you can easily get enough air, turbulence and heat into them so they burn clean and have nothing but a pinch of ash left if that.

Every draft Burner I have seen on the net needs cleaning. I think it is because they don't reach the internal heat needed to take the oil past the carbon phase and burn it completely. I'll drop the burner from under the heater later and have a good look at it and see what is going on but I'm pretty confident I know.  The next thing will be seeing how easy this design is to clean.  That may be it's flaw. There are ways around that though. Oil does leave a lot of residue if not burned completely. Thats something I'm sure some people are going to find with some designs I have seen.

 I have an idea for a low output blown air Burner, several actually.  I have crunched the numbers for the airflow required for a small blower like my bilge blower and the power consumption and it's tiddly winks.  Could run 24/7 even in bad weather off a small car battery and a solar panel to recharge and power it during the day. From a power supply it would probably be 10-25W depending on the blower used and the heat output required. I brought a blower motor and a blower housing from a car back last week so I could give them a go as well although they may pull more than the bilge blower as they are designed to run much more flow and looking at them I don't think they will be as efficient as they have much wider tolerances.

That will probably be put down the list this week. Going to try and knock up a decent outdoor heater for next weekend.
Think I'll just have a go at upscaling one of my older designs and see how that works out.
Will definitely be a blown air design, they are easy to get good heat from, burn clean and in this case, radiate the heat where one wants it.   :0)

glort

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #22 on: June 27, 2020, 10:09:40 AM »

More learned today.

I took the Burner off the heater and there was a fair bit of soot buildup in the burner but not as much as I thought. There was also an amount of tar like residue and some crust in the burner itself. The flue of the heater was sooty but not excessively and the baffle plate was pretty clean.
I decided to clean up the water heater experiment for the time being as it was in the way. I did want to look at a way of cleaning the burner so I put about 100Ml of metho into the thing, put the 4" flue pipe back on the top and lit it.  It sure did like that! Thing fairly roared.

Clearly it was running hot and I could tell the metho burnt off after a while and it was burning on the oil residue which I could see through the air holes. It all burnt down pretty crusty and with lots of glowing coals which is the final  phase of oil combustion like this.
I thought lets see how it goes with some oil in it now.  Poured in about a cupful and the burn reduced for a minute or so and then it came up to full roar again.

I didn't have the primary air hole restricted at all and the thing was burning perfectly clean at far greater output than it had before when testing it like this.  As I suspected with the secondary air holes, the reason the burn didn't clean up when I added more was because of the restriction of the water heater flue. Probably didn't allow enough draw for them to be effective.  Given it's head, the thing burned much hotter and cleaner than it had before I added the extra holes.

The heat the thing throws now is great. Don't know what the consumption is but I'd guess it may have gone from 5 Kw to nearer 25 or 30. Fuel burn is definitely up but I think the heat for a given amount is as well due to more complete combustion.
A smaller burner that can run flat out rather than be restricted by the flue size in the heater I think would work a lot better. The heater itself would probably provide enough draft without an additional flue.
I could make one of those but for the time being I'm leaning back towards a forced air burner.  I can make that even simpler in construction and I know I can get it to burn totally clean.  I also think that being forced air, I can push more heat through a given outlet  than I can with a draft design.   

veggie

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #23 on: June 27, 2020, 03:54:47 PM »
You call that a  "little"   L burner. !!!
To me that the LARGE.   ;D ;D

Yes, I was also thinking of a small forced air unit. Perhaps 4" or 5" diameter at the base with a swirl air inlet. Low pressure air so that a fancy oil spray nozzle is not required. Just a drip tube.
Burn pot in the center at the bottom. Low pressure fan with flow control for tuning.
From the 4" or 5" burn chamber I would reduce to a long 3" flue to radiate heat and attempt to have a complete burn before exiting the top.
Possibly an additional air inlet part way up to aid the burn (also fan forced with a swirl)
« Last Edit: June 27, 2020, 04:01:48 PM by veggie »
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- Changfa R175 - Lease/Neville Alternator
- Kubota Z482 - 4kw
- JiangDong R165 Air cooled - 2 kw

veggie

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #24 on: June 27, 2020, 04:10:54 PM »

I assume you are burning used motor oil.
What is the typical by-product of burning WVO in these heaters?
I realize that motor oil leaves an ash residue, but what about WVO.
Can it burn quite clean if the combustion is hot enough.?
I suspect it would be a good idea to have a removable bottom in the burn chamber, or some sort of clean-out access.
« Last Edit: June 27, 2020, 04:12:43 PM by veggie »
- 6/1 GM90 Listeroid - Delco 33si Alternator
- Changfa R175 - Lease/Neville Alternator
- Kubota Z482 - 4kw
- JiangDong R165 Air cooled - 2 kw

glort

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #25 on: June 28, 2020, 09:35:41 AM »

 I am using WVO in the burner.  There isn't a lot of difference in burning, WMO has a bit more heat but it's just messy shit to deal with and stinks IMHO. Burning is OK as long as it's clean but if rich or you spill some, don't like the odour and it won't come out your clothes either.
  I can pour WVO all over the concrete ( or spill gallons of it as I have done so many times) and then wet it down, sprinkle some KOH on it, broom it over a couple of times with a few min in between, wash it off and the cement  comes up like it was poured yesterday.

Spill some engine oil and the shit just stains and goes into the concrete and you never really get it out. My BIL gives me 60+L at a time when he changes the oil in his Battle ship and I put it through burners but it's not my preference by a long shot.  Last lot I took up to dad for pouring on the piles he was burning off from clearing his paddocks to get the bonfires started.

One thing I was surprised to learn the other week is the new treatment for oil contaminated soil.  The owner of a wrecking yard was telling me what they do now is plow up the ground to the depth of penetration, 300MM is std, and then do that every month or more. They reckon the sun and oxygen break the contaminants down into harmless  residue and after 12 Months the land is deemed to be fit for what ever use again to build or plant grass.  All they do is for the first 3 months depending on the level of contamination, is contain any run off and evaporate that or treat it aerobically and that is it.  Used to be here they had to take away the top level of the soil and then  replace it or go from there. Massively expensive with contaminated waste disposal but they have done away with that now. Plough it at least once a month and turn it over, leave it for a year, all good. 

I had a look at the burner today after letting it burn itself out last night with the big flue and there was an amount of hard, carbonaceous deposits and ash. The well burnt sand like  crust is actually a brown colour.  Banging the burner on a steel plate knocked the majority of that out. I put a couple of pieces of offcut scrap metal bits in the burner, shook them up a bit and they removed  more of the residue and I wasn't concerned about the rest.  The flue pipe was very clean with nothing more than a smudge layer of soot and clean metal in some parts right over the secondary air inlet.

Residue from WVO I have found is a fair bit less than WMO.  Wmo can be up to 10% ash where as I'd guess WVO is more like 3-5% by volume burnt.  The residue from WMO can really add up on incomplete burns. Again why I like forced air burners because you can get them hot enough so the ash is blown out and all you get is a smudge of soot if that!

WVO will burn to 3 Fractions.
The light components will burn off and you get a heavy black tar. Next stage is to get soft to hard carbon deposits that end up looking like coals and maybe wet depending how cooked off they are. The final stage is like wood ash. A Fine generally grey powder. It takes a lot of time & heat to change the second phase to the 3rd. The brown somewhat sandy residue I saw as I have previously, is an intermittent last stage between the 2.

This is why making sure a burner has good turbulence, a slight over supply of oxygen and runs hot is best for clean combustion and not fouling the burner.... or the engine. The hotter the burner gets the better with the ideal temp being over 600oC which is metal glowing dull red, or better. When I see a red glow, I know things are working well and the burner will be clean. A burner will never go out if it's running red unless you introduce fuel with a lot of free water in it. If it's running red on oil with dissolved water, doesen't matter. It's the red that counts. Can't see dull red in the day, only at night but if you can get it to run that hot, you'll have no troubles at all. Getting burners up to heat is the tricky part not keeping them there so much.

 I have thought of a way to make this burner easy to clean but I'm also thinking that if it's burnt hot enough as it seems to be doing now, it will be ok.  That's why I think a smaller burner running fast and hot rather than a bigger burner running lazy would be best in the water heater especially.


Today I happened across some lengths of scrap which is about 150 x 50mm and very heavy walled.  Saw it and instantly thought Big draft burner/ stove.  I had a thought of a double back design with this which could be used as a stove above the secondary air inlet where the flame should be hottest. Plenty of internal room to run a couple of lengths of 20/ 25mm Sq Tube internally for water heating.  This stuff is going to be hard to Cut though even with the plasma. I can see where it has been cut previously with a grinding type wheel and they have then given up and done the other 3 sides with an oxy.  Not really suitable for welding back together unless done by machine.

Also picked up a reasonable sized bit of 20mm Plate. Take a bit to heat up but once it was.... great to cook on. If I  Plasma Cut out the rectangular tube, sink and weld this in on the updraught side, one would have a very versatile cabin/ shed heater- stove -water heater.

I don't have a use for this myself but I was thinking of building it for a vid and then see if I could sell it off when I was done.
OTOH, with a larger and thinner plate, would also make for an interesting BBQ!

Come to think of it, I have some suitable plate up the back..... :0)

veggie

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #26 on: June 28, 2020, 04:26:54 PM »

Thanks, very useful information about WVO vs. WMO.
Being that I have lots of WVO and zero used engine oil, I feel comfortable building a
small burner for the WVO. I want to have some form of easy clean-out.
Perhaps placing the burn pot in a removable ash tray.
- 6/1 GM90 Listeroid - Delco 33si Alternator
- Changfa R175 - Lease/Neville Alternator
- Kubota Z482 - 4kw
- JiangDong R165 Air cooled - 2 kw

glort

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #27 on: June 29, 2020, 05:44:22 AM »
Perhaps placing the burn pot in a removable ash tray.

Yes, that is what I was thinking and if/ when I build the bigger burner I'll set it up that way

The difference between refined fuels and waste oils is that the refined fuels burn clean with no residue.  A diesel engine coked up has done thousands of hours and burnt tens of thousands of litres of fuel.  It's probably the oil it's burning when it's worn that making the thing coke up in the first place.

I did crack some Oil a while back, both Veg and WMO but I never tested the output to see if it burnt clean or still left deposits. Would be interesting to crack some more and see. I have an idea it would burn clean but if one were going to the trouble and energy expense of Cracking WMO, It would be a waste just to burn it an anything but an engine and then you could co gen it to get heat and power.

I might have a look at that over summer. I just put up another 6 Kw of panels and have another 6 Kw to put up on the other side of the roof  which will bring me up near 30Kw all up. I have actually lost count how much I have now but in summer is a ridiculous excess so I can afford to burn off a LOT of power so I could do it electrically instead of having to watch a fire.  Would allow me to use a thermostat and cook the oil at a precise and regulated temp.   

Have you thought of a design/ layout for your burner as yet?

A rush of blood to the head I got the other day for low power burners is like a big candle.
WVO is hopeless at drawing up normal wicking and I tried steel wool but that didn't work well either. What I was thinking was a thick wad of steel  wool and Dripping the oil onto it with the pump and a timer.  It may have to be enclosed so there can be primary and secondary air for a cleaner burn but I think it could work.  The wicking could be contained just round the side so any excess oil ran right on through into tank where it could be circulated up again by the pump.  That one wouldn't be hard to set up and test at all.
If it worked, could be perfect for a greenhouse or other low power application.

mike90045

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #28 on: June 29, 2020, 06:49:01 AM »
Here, what is called "steel wool" is hair fine fibers of steel, which actually burn and rust up real easy. 

Something from a boat yard called Brass Wool (for scrubbing finish and crud off boats without leaving iron bits to create rust streaks) wouldn't oxidize as fast, but may melt from heat.   Maybe stainless wool ?  or something like coarse stainless chips & spirals from a machine lathe

veggie

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Re: New waste oil Burner.
« Reply #29 on: June 29, 2020, 03:53:13 PM »
What about a blend with a small amount of gasoline?
Add a bit of RUG to the oil an see if it wicks up the rope.

One idea for a metal wick is the battery ground straps used in cars.
Some use a length of braided copper strap. Would make a beautiful green flame  ;D
« Last Edit: June 29, 2020, 03:58:06 PM by veggie »
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