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Andrew709:
Dear All, I am a newcomer to Listers but have always rather fancied an old diesel. So rashly or otherwise I bought a seized LR2 nearby. It’s already starting to suck money out of me, but the voyage of discovery has brightened up my days no end. I have a few engines at home, landrover 4 and 6 cyls, Jaguar 6s and Rolls Royce B60s and a B80, but no twins diesels!
The engine is nearly stripped. It was seized both in the barrels, and the ali flywheel housing had corroded so much that its was also stopping the crank from spinning. I’ve stripped to the point where the only thing left to remove is the crank. So two questions at this stage:
1. To remove the crank (to completely clean the case) I can see that the centre main bearing housing must move actually with the crank, but what then? Does one split it between its current position and the end bearing housing or does it have to pass through the latter before being split  and removed? What sort of fit should it be - it seems tight, but I don’t want to bend the crank at the big ends in levering it forward.

2. I’ve seen some relatively cheap + 20thou pistons. Should I get the barrels bored to suit?
Looking forward to chatting to you all as appropriate and thanks in anticipation.
Regards
Andrew

listard-jp2:

--- Quote from: Andrew709 on June 01, 2020, 06:00:46 PM ---To remove the crank (to completely clean the case) I can see that the centre main bearing housing must move actually with the crank, but what then?

--- End quote ---
Before you do that you will need to remove a dowel pin, which is located down the bottom of the oil feed hole connection for the centre main bearing, from which you would have removed the internal oil feed pipe from, if memory serves me correct it has a 1/4" UNF hole tapped in it.


--- Quote from: Andrew709 on June 01, 2020, 06:00:46 PM ---Does one split it between its current position and the end bearing housing or does it have to pass through the latter before being split  and removed?

--- End quote ---


You remove the timing gear, and the whole crank slides out of the flywheel end of the crankcase, the crank comes out complete with the centre main housing (cheese), and balance weights.


--- Quote from: Andrew709 on June 01, 2020, 06:00:46 PM ---What sort of fit should it be - it seems tight, but I don’t want to bend the crank at the big ends in levering it forward.

--- End quote ---

It will be until you remove the retaining dowel pin


--- Quote from: Andrew709 on June 01, 2020, 06:00:46 PM ---I’ve seen some relatively cheap + 20thou pistons. Should I get the barrels bored to suit?

--- End quote ---

If the engine has seized due to water ingress, it is highly likely that corrosion has pitted the cylinder bores deeper than that, and +020 will not clean it up.

Andrew709:
Thank you - a great help. Looking forward to extracting the crank tomorrow and giving the case a good clean and having a look at the mains. I have now got 3 instruction books which are some use, but all are for single cylinder engines. Any one know of one that deals with the twin cyclinder setup? And is there a more detailed workshop manual or is the instruction book as detailed as it gets?
WRT the barrels, yes you’re right there is deep pitting but the only area is above the top compression ring so am thinking that while the rebore won’t remove it all, it won’t cause compression loss or oil burning? andrew

cobbadog:
G'Day Andrew and welcome to the fun.
Try a Google search for a workshop manual for your model engine, sometimes they just turn up and your a winner. Sounds as if the pitting is above the top compression ring at TDC so no need to re-bore. If that is where the pitting is then hone it and fit a new set of STD rings and your good to go.
If no luck with the manual for your twin then a single cylinder will have to do but you would think there is one out there that suits yours.

Andrew709:
There was some corrosion above the face of the piston which was near BDC as well so not sure if a rehone will do. The pistons are done in, the rings were well and truly seized and the only free ring, the top compression ring, had worn the groove into a converging sides, as opposed to parallel. But, thanks to the advice above the crank is out, no problems. Not sure about the mains, the big ends look pretty good, so am going to chance it.
Thanks all for your help so far.

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