Author Topic: Lister LD2-newcomer  (Read 486 times)

Andrew709

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Lister LD2-newcomer
« on: June 01, 2020, 06:00:46 PM »
Dear All, I am a newcomer to Listers but have always rather fancied an old diesel. So rashly or otherwise I bought a seized LR2 nearby. Itís already starting to suck money out of me, but the voyage of discovery has brightened up my days no end. I have a few engines at home, landrover 4 and 6 cyls, Jaguar 6s and Rolls Royce B60s and a B80, but no twins diesels!
The engine is nearly stripped. It was seized both in the barrels, and the ali flywheel housing had corroded so much that its was also stopping the crank from spinning. Iíve stripped to the point where the only thing left to remove is the crank. So two questions at this stage:
1. To remove the crank (to completely clean the case) I can see that the centre main bearing housing must move actually with the crank, but what then? Does one split it between its current position and the end bearing housing or does it have to pass through the latter before being split  and removed? What sort of fit should it be - it seems tight, but I donít want to bend the crank at the big ends in levering it forward.

2. Iíve seen some relatively cheap + 20thou pistons. Should I get the barrels bored to suit?
Looking forward to chatting to you all as appropriate and thanks in anticipation.
Regards
Andrew

listard-jp2

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2020, 07:50:01 PM »
To remove the crank (to completely clean the case) I can see that the centre main bearing housing must move actually with the crank, but what then?
Before you do that you will need to remove a dowel pin, which is located down the bottom of the oil feed hole connection for the centre main bearing, from which you would have removed the internal oil feed pipe from, if memory serves me correct it has a 1/4" UNF hole tapped in it.

Does one split it between its current position and the end bearing housing or does it have to pass through the latter before being split  and removed?


You remove the timing gear, and the whole crank slides out of the flywheel end of the crankcase, the crank comes out complete with the centre main housing (cheese), and balance weights.

What sort of fit should it be - it seems tight, but I donít want to bend the crank at the big ends in levering it forward.

It will be until you remove the retaining dowel pin

Iíve seen some relatively cheap + 20thou pistons. Should I get the barrels bored to suit?

If the engine has seized due to water ingress, it is highly likely that corrosion has pitted the cylinder bores deeper than that, and +020 will not clean it up.

Andrew709

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2020, 11:26:52 PM »
Thank you - a great help. Looking forward to extracting the crank tomorrow and giving the case a good clean and having a look at the mains. I have now got 3 instruction books which are some use, but all are for single cylinder engines. Any one know of one that deals with the twin cyclinder setup? And is there a more detailed workshop manual or is the instruction book as detailed as it gets?
WRT the barrels, yes youíre right there is deep pitting but the only area is above the top compression ring so am thinking that while the rebore wonít remove it all, it wonít cause compression loss or oil burning? andrew

cobbadog

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2020, 07:01:05 AM »
G'Day Andrew and welcome to the fun.
Try a Google search for a workshop manual for your model engine, sometimes they just turn up and your a winner. Sounds as if the pitting is above the top compression ring at TDC so no need to re-bore. If that is where the pitting is then hone it and fit a new set of STD rings and your good to go.
If no luck with the manual for your twin then a single cylinder will have to do but you would think there is one out there that suits yours.
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Andrew709

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2020, 07:33:15 PM »
There was some corrosion above the face of the piston which was near BDC as well so not sure if a rehone will do. The pistons are done in, the rings were well and truly seized and the only free ring, the top compression ring, had worn the groove into a converging sides, as opposed to parallel. But, thanks to the advice above the crank is out, no problems. Not sure about the mains, the big ends look pretty good, so am going to chance it.
Thanks all for your help so far.

Andrew709

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2020, 10:24:38 PM »
I noticed on the top of the barrel rims, the machined faces that seal against the copper rims, are punch marks. One mark on one barrel, and two on the other. Apart from designating their position on the block (no1 nearest timing gear?) I was wondering if they mark anything else, like the orientation of the barrels? I forgot to make a note of the orientation of the barrels but note that there are straight fins and curved fins. Is there a right way and wrong way of orientating them?

cobbadog

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2020, 12:31:51 PM »
Ok, have you found a manual as yet for your engine model? This may help you decide if the marks you describe are genuine or put there by someone else. It really helps a lot to post pics with the questions to help others give you the best replies.
Ive not had to strip one of these down as yet so sorry I can't offer any ideads to orientation but again a manual will confirm it. The other thing to start doing is to take as many pictures as possible as you strip it as this can answer these questions for you simply by going back to the pic and confirming your thoughts. I fortunately did this when restoring a David Brown Cropmaster tractor and needed to confirm the correct position of the 3 point linkage arms back to being original. I went back about 12 months and found the pic that set me straight.
Keep looking for a manual, one will turn up.
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Andrew709

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2020, 02:15:38 PM »
Not yet - still looking. Can anyone recommend a good oil type to use?

scott p

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #8 on: June 03, 2020, 06:46:11 PM »
Yes there is a right way and a wrong way for the barrels to set. On a single cylinder engine the flat sides of the barrel runs parallel to the crank. Other wise you won't be able to fit the cooling tin.

Andrew709

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #9 on: June 03, 2020, 08:24:43 PM »
Many thanks. I think itís a reasonable assumption that the same is true of a twin....
A

cobbadog

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #10 on: June 04, 2020, 07:02:00 AM »
For your engine oil, depending on the local temps where you live but a 30W/40 or 50 mineral oil is best all round oil. Try to avoid synthetic oil. These engines were designed many years ago and are very tolerant to oil grades.
Some guys will throw any cheap oil in their engines and all with no apparent problems but I like to stay as close to original specs where possible. Here in Australia we label our oils slightly different to how they are done in the UK but STOU type oils are very popular with tractor owners over there.
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mike90045

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #11 on: June 04, 2020, 09:38:40 PM »
....... Try to avoid synthetic oil. .......

Why do you say that ?  Other than expense, what would be the issue ?

cobbadog

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #12 on: June 04, 2020, 11:38:03 PM »
Expense, why throw it away when almost any oil will do exactly the same job and these engines do not justify the advanced technology, just a waste is all.
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Andrew709

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #13 on: June 05, 2020, 12:00:41 AM »
Common mutligrades here are 10w30, 15w40, 20w50, but Mono grade oil like Sae30 is also easy to get. For an LD1 the book recommends a 10W, and I assume a twin is the same. Iím tempted to buy a 15w40 because my Defender takes that as well.

scott p

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Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« Reply #14 on: June 05, 2020, 02:46:56 AM »
yes Andrew, the placement of the barrels may be the same, still might be a good idea to do a mock up with just the barrels and the tin to make sure.

I was advised by a long time Lister man not to use synthetic oil in these old engines. Don't recall why, perhaps too thin and slippery.