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LR1 Won't start

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Avondale:
Hi

I bought an 'unfinished project' LR1 from a chap locally. The engine was in pretty bad shape, so I set about rebuilding it, thinking it would be straightforward !

Complete strip down, new piston and cylinder, de-coke, valves ground in, new gaskets. New fuel tank.

I reassembled it with the original fuel pump and injector, bled the fuel system but it will not start.

I know I am cranking it in the right direction. I have checked the fuel pump rack and set that according to manual. The decompression is set right.

The crankshaft and camshaft timing marks are aligned. Compression seems healthy.

I can hear the injector 'creak' but still no joy.

Where do I go from here? What should I check / adjust next?

Thanks





AdeV:
Pull the injector out, re-connect it to the HP line, and crank the engine with the injector in free air (keep hands/eyes/small children/sandwiches well away - it can inject diesel under the skin if you're holding it, and it'll make your sandwiches taste terrible). It should give a nice mist when it creaks. If you get something more akin to a slug or jet, then you need to have the injector refurbished, or replace it.

Assuming the injector's OK, replace it; then drop "some" oil into the intake valve. Probably around 1/4 cup. Crank it like crazy and drop the decompression lever - hopefully it'll up the compression enough to fire it.

cobbadog:
Excellent advise Adey. It is the best way to confirm that the injector is spraying a lovely light mist. I can also confirm that diesel on sandwiches is not a good thing.
I also read the list of replacement parts but no listing of new rings as well, hopefully these were done too.
Go back and bleed the fuel system again and do it one section at a time. Fuel tank to inlet of the filter bowl, bleed the bowl, then to the fuel pump inlet side then outlet side when cranking next at the injector inlet. Really ensure there is no air in the line.
Remember from the pump to the injector the amount of fuel that is pumped is just a dribble at best but when it has to make the injector open the pressure gets up over 1000 psi from memory and is the reason for keeping any part of you and your sandwich away from the nozzle. Don't be tempted to try and use anything to poke in the hole/s of the injector, this will destroy the tip immediately.
Using a quarter of a cup of oil down the inlet is a sure way to increase the compression to make them fire but if you have done the liner, piston, rings and head it should not be needed. As a last resort if you still have no joy use a small amount of either or start ya bastard down the air intake and see what happens. And I do mean a small amount. Once started let it run for a while varying the rev range to help bed the rings in.
Good luck and keep us posted as to how you get on.

Avondale:
Thankyou for your advice Adey and Cobbadog

When removing the injector to test, should I use a new pipe, or bend the one that is fitted? I read somewhere that it could split if bent too much?

Thanks again

mike90045:

--- Quote from: Avondale on March 02, 2020, 06:38:27 AM ---Thankyou for your advice Adey and Cobbadog

When removing the injector to test, should I use a new pipe, or bend the one that is fitted? I read somewhere that it could split if bent too much?

Thanks again

--- End quote ---

I loosen both ends of the high pressure pipe, to move it around, and then retighten to test the spray pattern.  In my experience, if you are getting the creak (on my 6/1, its more like a Tingg) you are not likely to have air in the line.

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