Puppeteer

Author Topic: Water or steam injection  (Read 736 times)

listeroil

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 203
    • View Profile
Water or steam injection
« on: February 16, 2020, 08:03:06 PM »
I would like some advice about water injection please.  I will explain my situation I live off grid in the UK have been doing so for the last 19 years.  For most of that time I have been running old Lister 8/1 engined Startomatics on WVO. No preheating just a thermostat to get the engine up to temperature quick.  One thing I have noticed is that when I first get an engine thats been run on diesel all its life it starts first compression.  However when starting on WVO it takes progressively more turning over to start on cold WVO.  Not a big problem because its electric start.  But not ideal also when doing a decoke I find a lot of erosion occurring above the top piston ring. So I fit a new piston and away we go again.

I have managed to acquire an almost brand new 1974 8/1 Startomatic.  It was bought in 1974 when we had 3 months of power cuts to provide power for a Mansion house in Oxfordshire.  It looks brand new no wear on anything.  Probably done about 300 hours in total.  With this bit of kit I want to set it up right.  I've cast a concrete base and bolted it to that.  It runs so smooth on red diesel at the moment.

I intend to start on red and after 15 mins when the engine is warm changeover to WVO run on that until shut down then change over to red for long enough to start on red diesel next start.  This will be controlled by an Arduino.  Before I run on WVO I intend to fit water injection again controlled by the Arduino.  The Arduino will be used to control a mains operated peristaltic pump this way I can control exactly the amount of water injected per given load.  The 8/1 uses about 500ml fuel per Kwh. 

So the question is how much water to inject the same amount as fuel or less?
Another thought would steam injection be better?  Because I am using a peristaltic pump I could wrap 3/16 copper brake pipe round the exhaust and inject steam in to the inlet manifold.

mike90045

  • Mendocino Metro
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1465
  • Mmmm BBQ
    • View Profile
    • Mikes Solar PV page
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2020, 02:24:32 AM »
What ever method, make sure water cannot drain into the intake if something goes wrong.. Makes for real hard starting .

Steam may condense in the intake manifold

glort

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3355
    • View Profile
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2020, 03:32:50 AM »

One thing I have noticed is that when I first get an engine thats been run on diesel all its life it starts first compression.

A speculative statement.  Do you menat the FIRST time you start it or it progressively gets harder to start? If so, Over what time frame?
Do you DRY your oil or just filter it? Drying makes starting much easier on Veg but few people seem to do it.  Unlike Diesel or WMO, veg oil is Hygroscopic and it WILL hold dissolved water and a Lot of it.
 I Dry all my veg by Bubbling air through it with force and having a fan draw away the moisture laden air. It makes a BIG difference to the starting and running of an engine using Veg and prevents a lot of problems as well with growths in fuel tank and erosion of fuel pump components and injectors.

 
Quote
  But not ideal also when doing a decoke I find a lot of erosion occurring above the top piston ring.

Erosion? Like as in Pitting of the ring or do you mean carbon Build-up? Never heard of actual erosion before even on engines that run a LOT of water injection. Even if your oil was wet, can't fathom how the ring would be eroded.

 
Quote
This will be controlled by an Arduino. 

Over complication.
I used to change over to Oil as soon as the engine was running when I had a 2 tank system which I did away with MANY years ago as being unnecessary.  Once the engine is running, it will burn oil happily. All the poppycock about the oil having to be hot to spray properly etc is a load of internet parroted Crap.  Get an injector tester and put cold oil through it. Sprays the same no matter what the temp. 20,000Psi of pressure over rides any temp difference by a long way.  If the oil will go through the filter, it will go though the injector.

Other things is, when you change over, you still have to flush all the Diesel or whatever through the lines, pump, filter etc. From what you are saying, the thing has probably generated a KWH before that's all out anyway and even then, The oil will blend with the remaining Diesel in the filter, It won't just come through as a slug of oil with a distinct line of one fuel and the other.  Time all the diesel is through and you are on pure oil, the engine will be plenty warm in any application.

Also remember the Cylinder is a lot hotter than the water jacket and the piston heats up a lot faster than that.

The other thing is if you are using WI, as long as the thing starts on oil, which it will certainly do if it is in good condition, you don't have to worry about build-up from starting cold even if it does happen. It's a slow and gradual process and the WI when running will remove any bit of buildup in short order over the run time. That's kind of the whole 1dea of having the WI.

Rather than the complication and stuffing around with a 2 tank system, I went to blending years back if I need to in winter.  Just mix in 10%  ULP and be done with it. 5% in summer if you want to get the best power by bringing the timing forward if it's not been changed on the engine. If that's not enough because you live in some frozen hell hole, add kero or turps.  Mercedes used to recommend up to 30% ULP in diesel.  No way I'd go over 15% after having tried 20% and that's in oil!

I don't think taking a few turns to start is at all a bad thing. In the old days you turned a race engine over to get the oil pressure up before the ignition was turned on.  I recently saw an engine with a very elaborate electronic injection computer and asked why it took a seemingly long time before it lit. Guy told me the computer looked for a minimum oil pressure before it lit the plugs.  Seems that's still a practice on high performance engines and it won't hurt any engine I'd say.  Splash a bit of oil round before you light it up.

My experience has been that engines will light off more readily in the cold anyway with petrol in the oil than they will on straight Diesel.
One is a volatile that gives off Fumes for want of the proper term and the other is just an oil which is much more ignition resistant, especialy veg oil.

 
Quote
The Arduino will be used to control a mains operated peristaltic pump this way I can control exactly the amount of water injected per given load. 

Mate, don't over think this! Everyone seems to but it's not necessary.  You have been running engines on WVO for a long time by the sound of it with no water at all.  It does not need to be precisely metered and sure as heck you don't need to adjust for load. That's just making mountains out of Mole hills. If you can run engines for years with NO WI, you sure don't need to get pedantic when you do.  Bit of water added regularly will be all you need and do wonders relatively to doing nothing.

If anything, Set the arduino to not inject water for a few Minutes till the engine gets up a bit of temp and that's it.   All you need to do is inject an amount of water regularly but not even constantly and you are good as it's going to get.  On my vehicles I set the WI to come on at about 4 Lbs boost or at 3/4 Throttle.  That's intermittent but regular and is plenty good enough. Same amount every time, no need for variable.

Sorry, but half the problem with people using WI is they have this position that something simple, cheap, easy and straightforward can't work and they have to complicate it . YOU DON'T!
Just feed some water in when the thing is running under load preferably and that's it.
Amount isn't critical, time isn't critical.

Quote
So the question is how much water to inject the same amount as fuel or less?

The same amount as fuel is a good starting point.  On my 4WD I can inject several times the amount of fuel it uses but that's for fun and performance reasons not cleaning requirements. I'd suggest in your setup half fuel would probably be OK. If the engine is new, decently loaded, has an injector giving a nice spray pattern, that should be more than enough.  If you get an old engine that has some clag, then you can turn up the water to hasten the cleaning process but even then I generally turn it down again once I can tell it's clean ( performance levels out rather than continually improving)  simply because it's not needed.

Starting can be used as a guide but that's got to be taken into consideration with weather and fuel for a start.  If it's getting colder an engine might take a little more cranking. It might get easier as the weather warms or just on a warmer day. The parameters are never really the same.  Fuel is another factor. Even from the same source, I have found the oil you get can vary. Sometimes the supplier just gives them something else and Even Corn, canola and sunflower oil can be different enough to make that little difference in starting that you will pick up on.  I tend to do my oil in 1000L batches so that eliminates that variable for a couple of months at least but the weather may change a fair bit in that time Anyhow. 3 weeks ago it was 46oC here. Hasn't got over 28 since and some days topped out at 18!. 

I have been harping on WI a LONG time and my strong advise is not to overthink it and complicate things. You don't need Microfine fogging nozzles on 500 PSI pumps, you don't need variable injection rates or any thing like that. You are running a plodder stationary engine not a Diesel Dragster or a top Fueller where every fraction of a HP counts and they are doing it more to stop the engine going off like a bomb anyway.

Start with half your fuel  usage ( roughly, don't get pedantic) and just set your Pump to do something around that and switch on 10 min after starting.  If you want to go the change over route, you can stop the WI at the same time the diesel change over kicks in.  I think that's overkill as well but anyway.

You can easy pull the injector and have a look at that or get a borescope for your phone or just pull the head at 100 Hours and have a look at the piston.  I'll guarantee you won't see anything just with that.  If you do, then up the injection rate but I'd be surprised. In any case similar fuel consumption will be all you need and more in this application.


Quote
Another thought would steam injection be better?  Because I am using a peristaltic pump I could wrap 3/16 copper brake pipe round the exhaust and inject steam in to the inlet manifold.

Again, Complete and utter over kill even if it did work, which it won't .
You are NEVER going to get steam by wrapping a coil round the exhaust even if it's 6 Ft long.  Just not the heat in the exhaust and the contact area of 2 Circles is miniscule giving crap heat transfer even if you wrap it.

Years ago people went on about using exhaust heat in their proclivity and obsession for preheating oil as hot as they could.  The advise was don't do it because you will over heat it.  I tried it, waste of time.  The heat transfer was so crap I couldn't even get any decent heat from a 6 Cyl turbo engine blasting up a good hill.  By the time you made a heat exchange for the exhaust, far simpler to use coolant.

Even if you could get steam, First it's going to do nothing more and it would also probably condense in the inlet back to water before much got into the Cylinder as the inlet will always run well under 100oC.  The other problem would be you are thinning the air by heating it ( and again probably re condensing the water) which may give problems at full power with not getting enough air.

The phase change from a liquid to a gas of the water causes a cavitation. It's the cavitation which actually creates the micro explosions that help dislodge the build-up. They are strong enough to remove the build-up but not enough to affect the metal of the piston and cylinder. This is why putting a COARSE  spray  or better still a drip  into the engine is better for cleaning purposes than a micro fine fog.  I sure don't have any fancy Nozzles and pumps on any of my systems. I used to use fine garden sprayers but gave them away long ago as well.
Just have a bit of flattened copper pipe  that shoots a stream into the inlet manifold.  Just giving the engine a big rev under no load shows how the stream is broken up in the air flow as it enters the engine.

I suspect the inlet valve under load heats up enough to turn an amount of the water droplets hitting the back of it to steam anyway.

Bottom line is Just do it. Do it simple and uncomplicated ( peristaltic pump is a great way to dose it) and ajust if need be. You won't hurt anything unless you go pumping litres a minute in, in which case the engine will stop a long time before you hydro lock it anyway) and if you don't put in enough, that can very easily be fixed by turning things up later.

Let us know how you go with the new engine and put up some pics for us to drool over!  :0)

veggie

  • Keep Calm and Start the Lister !
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 561
    • View Profile
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2020, 07:35:50 PM »
I recently added an Arduino to my lister.
It monitors the engine coolant temperature and RPM using an infrared sensor to a white dot on the flywheel.
The Arduino sends the data to a cloud application so my cell phone can monitor it when I'm not in the garage.
(It will be running for up to 5 hours per cycle as a CHP system and I will not always be nearby).
My phone can communicate with the Arduino also, as part of my phone application I added a kill button.

If the engine senses overspeed, (or If I hit the kill button on my phone for any reason), the Arduino energizes a solenoid which closes the fuel rack until the flywheel rpm is zero..
It also allows me to have the engine run for a set time and then have the arduino turn off.
In the picture below you can see the Solid State relay attached to the right side of the Arduino enclosure.
That relay energizes the shutdown solenoid.

You could just as easily have the relay activate the water injection pump when the coolant temperature reaches some desired set point.
You could also use this same logic to active a fuel switch-over valve after 'x' minutes of running or after the engine shows some heat.
In reverse, the arduino could switch the fuel back to diesel 'x' minutes before auto shutdown.
Whatever you want.  ... As long as you are having fun !  ;D

Also below is the 12vdc fuel switching valve that I will be using to switch from diesel to WVO (Currently my fuel switching is manual).
A second relay will be added to the Arduino to accomplish this.
« Last Edit: February 17, 2020, 11:51:42 PM by veggie »
- 6/1 GM90 Listeroid - Delco 33si Alternator
- Changfa R175 - Lease/Neville Alternator
- Kubota Z482 - 4kw
- JiangDong R165 Air cooled - 2 kw

glort

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3355
    • View Profile
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2020, 05:50:55 AM »

6 port valves were the units of Choice for 2 tank systems.  As a roid does not have any return fuel flow of any significance, a couple of 2 ports would probably be OK and might be cheaper.

Those 6 ports never were very reliable.

listeroil

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 203
    • View Profile
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2020, 11:56:44 PM »
I've been running lister cs engines for 19 years now the first couple of years only on red diesel.  Then I found out about running them on vegoil and started using that.  At the time it was cheaper than red so I ran on new vegoil from tesco's.  Then for some unbeknown reason the price rocketed up to more than red diesel price.  Thats when I started collecting WVO from various sources.  This was not clean and what I did was leave it to stand for at least a month then decant the runny stuff off the top.  I have never dried the oil just used the runny stuff as is the only filtering was a jcloth wrapped round a 5 micron filter in the water filter assembly and the filter close to the engine.  The jcloth works great catches all the sediment before it gets to the 5 micron polypropylene water filter.  When it blocks I just change the jcloth and use the old one to start the fire.  However I now get my oil from just one supplier a firm that make crisps It is lovely and clean no whites.  I get it in an IBC 1000 litres at a time for 200 which is better than the 30p per litre I was paying before for dirty oil and  a lot easier to collect, they load it into my trailer with a forklift.  I will test this oil for water content.

It is not the piston ring thats corroded its the piston itself the area above the top ring. When the carbon is cleaned off the side of the piston above the top ring quite a lot of aluminium is missing scored doesn't happen when running on red.

My reason for using the Arduino is to have a wireless controlled start and stop. I suffer from COPD and have only 24% lung capacity and the generator is about 100ft away and its just to far to walk to switch it on or off I am virtually housebound.  Even though its a startomatic I dont like that function and have dispensed with it.  The plan is to have a wireless camera in the genny shed check there's nobody there and start it with a press of the button in my cabin.  Using the Arduino as an engine starter has some advantages.  First I can spin the engine over decompressed for a few seconds then drop the decompressor for a less stress start.  Second monitor the voltage and switch on the output contactor when the voltage reaches say 200 volts.  Also when switching off switch the output contactor off before actually switching off the engine.  Its not a good idea to have loads connected when the engine runs down.  Also got a current sensor as well as the voltage and water temperature sensor.  All these details can be transmitted back to the handset and be displayed on screen.  I should point out that my son is the one who knows how to program and build the Arduino.  Not me I just do the mechanicals.

I am in the process of setting up a pair of generators that way I can run one until it needs its oil changed.  Then swap over to the other generator until that needs an oil change.  This will give me an instant back up if either one fails.  Ive been on a hunt for years to get 2 good 8/1 engined Startomatics and now have a nice pair.  The second one has a 1981 engine that appears to be in good condition.  Just the gen head needs some attention new anti vibration rubbers new brushes and top box rewiring to push button start.

Regarding the water injection my pump delivers 6.5 litres per hour this equates to 108ml per minute I've calculated that the genny on full load will use 2.25 litres fuel per hour.  So if I run the pump for 2 minutes on and 8 minutes off this will give me 1.296 litres per hour.

I think I am going to do the twin tank system on one of the gennys because I have all the bits to do it and its been a long ongoing plan which is nearly there.  I think I can achieve quite a quick changeover see enclosed picture of system I intend to use.


« Last Edit: February 19, 2020, 12:16:06 AM by listeroil »

glort

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3355
    • View Profile
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #6 on: February 19, 2020, 11:00:55 AM »

Sounds like a well thought out system with the arduinos.

I have no explanation for the erosion. I have seen very light pitting on the tops of pistons but never anything I'd call erosion around the top ring land . You said when the carbon is cleaned off. Maybe it's the coking that's causing some friction in that area and wearing the piston?
Carbon can be hard, abrasive stuff when it gets well baked on.  WI should help with this by removing the carbon and keeping that area build-up free.

I have used a 10" water filter for.... ever pretty much for my main filtering as well.  If you can get s string wound filter they last longer than a Poly filter. Don't know why but they have proven that time and time again.
I don't know what  jcloth is but I presume some sort of cleaning cloth? Microfibre?

In the early days I used to use those recycled, re useable shopping bags for a pre filter. would hang them over a drum with a bung in it and put the oil through.  I usualy did the first passes on a new bag several times because once they get a layer of fat and fine sediment they filter a lot finer.  They certainly slow down but if you put in 20L or so which was what they tend to hold, it's a fair output. Of course they run a lot faster in summer than winter but once you had that initial layer, the output was incredibly clean and the 10"  would last at very least 2500L at which point I'd get nervous it might have blown a hole or be bypassing and change it.  Still damn cheap fuel.

I used to get oil in IBC's from cruise ships when they came into re stock.  that was beautiful oil as well. Best I ever got in fact.  Having it  put in your trailer in 1000L lots was just such a luxury and I got it for free. Matter of fact, I'd pick one up and they would ask me if I was coming back today or tomorrow to get the other one?  Some times I'd be at capacity ( had 4000L in stock) so I'd take it to a mates place who made Bio diesel.  He'd ring me when he got home from work and say " I see I got a visit from the oil Fairy today. Thanks very much for that".
The oil fairy thing stuck a bit as I was always giving oil away to other people so was known for granting peoples oily wishes.

The water delivery rate you are planning sounds good. Probably does not matter in the end but on the automated dosing systems I have used, I prefer to run say 10 sec every Minute rather than long times on and longer off.  I prefer even delivery as possible in stationary use.
Maybe 20 sec on and 2 min off would be better/ Easy to set up whatever you want on the arduino.

Regarding your fuel pump, I'm not sure how the Cs pump handles pressure. Only ever gravity fed Mine.  Others may know better but I would suggest doing a no pressure system.  T a return line back to the tank at the injector pump. This way you will have fuel pushed right to the IP but it will have no pressure as it will be able to escape back up the return line. 

How will the Veg feed from the IBC? Will the tank be remote on a higher level?
Given you are using an IBC, I wouldn't be taking the fuel from the bottom of the tank, I'd be using a floating pickup in the top.  Bit of wood to fit through the big cap in the top, put a fitting in the lid, 1.3 Meters of soft fuel line going to another fitting or bit of copper pipe sticking through the wood and 50 MM underneath and you are there. 

ALWAYS better to pick up from the top as everything you don't want goes to the bottom in oil and all the good stuff is on the top.  Filtered and dried or not.
If you have to feed from the bottom, I would at least kick the tank back from the pickup side to form bit of a sump for anything to drop out  to go away from the pickup.

Keep us updated on your progress.

veggie

  • Keep Calm and Start the Lister !
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 561
    • View Profile
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #7 on: February 20, 2020, 02:58:50 PM »

You may already be aware, but the arduino "uno" and "mega"do not have WiFi capability.
If you wish to communicate with the system from the house, take a look at the Wemos D1R2.
Form factor and programming language is the same as Arduino but it has WiFi connectivity.
It even uses the Arduino programming software.
Costs around $10
The big difference with the Wemos is that it's pins are all 3.3vdc (like the raspberry Pi) unlike the Arduino which is 5vdc.
Buy local from Amazon. (As you know, ... EBay is not shipping from the Asia at the moment)
Make sure it's the Wemos D1 R2 . The older Wemos D1 has been phased out but there may still be some old inventory being sold.

cheers,
veggie
« Last Edit: February 20, 2020, 04:32:22 PM by veggie »
- 6/1 GM90 Listeroid - Delco 33si Alternator
- Changfa R175 - Lease/Neville Alternator
- Kubota Z482 - 4kw
- JiangDong R165 Air cooled - 2 kw

veggie

  • Keep Calm and Start the Lister !
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 561
    • View Profile
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #8 on: February 20, 2020, 03:02:54 PM »


Very thoughtful that you gave the two engines a window so that they can view outside while working  ;D
- 6/1 GM90 Listeroid - Delco 33si Alternator
- Changfa R175 - Lease/Neville Alternator
- Kubota Z482 - 4kw
- JiangDong R165 Air cooled - 2 kw

glort

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3355
    • View Profile
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #9 on: February 21, 2020, 09:09:15 AM »
The big difference with the Wemos is that it's pins are all 3.3vdc (like the raspberry Pi) unlike the Arduino which is 5vdc.

Do you see some advantage in that?

I think there are a few boards that have the built in Wifi now.

I was looking for a timer board today that had .1 Second ajustability. After some time trolling the electronic sites, the 2V light flickered in my head and I remembered I could to that with an arduino.
What I'd like to figure out though is how to make the timing adjustable with a trimpot.
So much those little things can do!

listeroil

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 203
    • View Profile
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #10 on: February 21, 2020, 02:51:25 PM »
Thats very interesting about the wifi circuit board but I dont think it will have the range the genny shed is at least 100ft from the router.  However I will talk to my son and see what we can do as it might be nice to see the information on the computer.  Unfortunately I do not do the Arduino stuff myself.  My son tells me what to buy I buy it he connects it up writes the program and if we are lucky it works. Below is the transmitting module that I bought last week because my son connected the last one the wrong way round and all the magic smoke disappeared.  That  one did work with enough range to start and stop and was being rebuilt to do the monitoring.

Ebay item no 372740389720
Description
● Power supply voltage : 3.2 V -- 5.5 V.(if the modules working long hours in emission state, suggested that when the power supply voltage is greater than 4.5 V , you need concatenating a 1N4007 diode to avoid module built-in LDO got fever)
● Default communication distance : about 600 m (communication distance is adjustable up to 1000 m, air baud rate 5000 BPS).
● Default idle current: 16 ma (modules in different working mode of different current).
● Module size: 27.8mm*14.4mm*4mm.
● Operating frequency range (433.4 473.0 MHz, as many as 100 communication channel) maximum 100 mw fired power (can be set)
● Module supporting software upgrades.
● Default factory Settings: working mode FU3, baud rate 9600 BPS, communication channel CH001 (433.4 M)
433Mhz HC-12 SI4463 Wireless Serial Port Module 1000m Replace Bluetooth TE296



Mick

listeroil

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 203
    • View Profile
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #11 on: February 21, 2020, 05:49:46 PM »
Quote
Regarding your fuel pump, I'm not sure how the Cs pump handles pressure.
 
I dont think the pump will be a problem with the injection pump.  The electric fuel pump is 3 to 5 psi and the only place the fuel can go is into the barrel of the IP and that is precision machined to pump the fuel to the injector at a lot higher pressure  Here is what it says in CAV injection pump manual.


Regarding water injection rates how does 16 seconds on and 64 seconds off sound?

Mick


glort

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3355
    • View Profile
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2020, 11:18:25 PM »

Take what you read about Wifi with a grain of salt regarding range.
About 15 years ago  I wanted to transmit Photos from the camera back to my Photo trailer up to 500M away. There were units one could put on a camera from OEM's but they were horifficaly expensive and didn't have more range than being in the same room anyway.  I wanted a long range and cheap solution with Normal components.  Every one on forums basically laughed when I floated the idea.
  I then started looking into long range WI fi and found people were doing it for KM and weren't spending fortunes doing it either.
That was with the older G Wifi photocall as well, not the Current "N"? specification.

I set up some of those USB wifi  Plug in things in an old Photo reflector with a foil Covered cardboard Backing as a transmitter and Receiver.
We called them the radar Dishes.  Taped them to a pole, Pointed them at one another and with off the shelf components plugged together and no other hackery it worked fine.  My setup was a bit Clunky but It worked perfect, was cheap, proved reliable and I was able to do it myself with no problems. I have a 2 Wheel Moving type trolley with a car Battery on the bottom, A shelf welded up higher I sat a laptop on, the Telescoping pole with the dish on the side and the camera was tethered to the laptop.  Actually the clunkiness of it worked well for me as it looked very High tech and raised interest in what I was doing.  The trailer had another Dish on a pole on a bracket and that too looked pretty High tech. Some people thought we were getting satelite TV.
Took about 10 Sec for a Picture to be on the server/ view stations after it was taken and didn't have any problem with backlog, they all worked through in order. One thing for sure, It was a damn site faster than having someone run to get the card and take it back to the trailer.

If you have a straight line of sight to your shed you will be laughing. 100M is nothing in the scheme of things.  At that distance you could do it though a building or over a hill. It really is nothing despite what you may be told.  At worst you will need a couple of Dishes ( Metal salad Bowls with an antenna in the middle will work fine)  Mount them on the outside of the buildings and that will be all you need.
Think of the wifi signal like a beam of light. If you concentrate it and aim it it goes a lot further than like a bare Light Bulb. Walls and obstacles detract from range and diffuse the signal but if you can get straighter lines of sight  it's easy.

Just do a search for DIY long range Wifi and you should find heaps on it. I see the board you found has an antenna socket. That makes things real easy to mount an antenna outside.
I would imagine the science of this has progressed in leaps and bounds since I played with it and it's even easier and more capable now.
100M is not going to give you any problems with a bit of setup that's for sure!

That board looks very interesting. Can you put a link to it as I can't find it by the item number.

Whenever I buy those little boards ( and I must have 100 Different ones now in the box) I always buy at least 2.
The chances and ease of connecting something wrong and blowing them up is always high and I don't like waiting another month for a $2 part to arrive from China.  When I get one and it's what I want. First thing I do is order more. Was looking for something to do a Job yesterday and Found a suitable board which I ordered a pair of even though they weren't cheap.  Bit later going though my boxes of boards I found I had 2 already and they won't do what I want.

Ah well.

listeroil

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 203
    • View Profile
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #13 on: February 22, 2020, 01:40:12 AM »
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2PCS-433Mhz-Serial-RF-Module-HC-12-1000M/372740389720?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

If the link doesnt work just type in   HC-12

It is funny but I forgot about extending the range on the wifi because years ago i made a cantana which was basically a pringles can with a little ariel it worked great.

veggie

  • Keep Calm and Start the Lister !
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 561
    • View Profile
Re: Water or steam injection
« Reply #14 on: February 23, 2020, 03:53:01 PM »
The big difference with the Wemos is that it's pins are all 3.3vdc (like the raspberry Pi) unlike the Arduino which is 5vdc.

Do you see some advantage in that?

I think there are a few boards that have the built in Wifi now.


Nope, No advantage to 3.3 volts. Just pointing out the differences in the boards.
Some people make the mistake of assuming the Wemos is the same as an Arduino in all respects and fry the board by using 5vdv sensors and inputs instead of 3.3v.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2020, 03:55:03 PM by veggie »
- 6/1 GM90 Listeroid - Delco 33si Alternator
- Changfa R175 - Lease/Neville Alternator
- Kubota Z482 - 4kw
- JiangDong R165 Air cooled - 2 kw