6-1 parts

[Blueflame]

Hello all I overheated my 6-1 and used my spare head gasket. I seem to have damaged the fuel nozzle as it squirts a stream now. I also see much less compression probably from a thicker head gasket. I am looking to buy a few nozzles, some head gaskets and an adjustable decompression valve to raise compression for starting. I cant seem to find parts anywhere. Does anyone know how to get parts? Thank you

[BruceM]

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but no way your low compression is due to a thicker head gasket.  You likely have valve and/or ring damage.  Listening carefully at intake and exhaust should tell you about the valves.

You forgot to mention your location; in the US,  Gary at Diesel Electric Services is a great source for all Lister related parts.  https://diesel-electric.us/

There is also centralmaindiesel.com, who have the Listeroid CS parts.

[Blueflame]

Thank you I will try Gary. I do think the valves are ok, broken ring is possible and I didn't check for that. the location is northern Michigan.

[Blueflame]

The nozzle I replaced and now it starts easily despite what I thought was too low of compression. I may just seem to be when it wont start. I still need to locate head gasket spares that do not have extra holes between the main 2.  Engine is a powersolutions -jkson 2005 model 6-1. I had a lot of difficulty in getting coolant to circulate as in airlocked but got it eventually and now it transfers heat.

[broncodriver99]

Central Maine Diesel or Jim Calder up in Canada @ just live off grid. They both deal in Listeroids.

[Hugh Conway]

@Blueflame......
If you do decide to use a compression changeover valve, you must also adjust the bump clearance.
I have a JKSON too. Listeroids without the changeover valve use a different bump clearance, and it makes a big difference.
Wish I had one installed now, it's been -12 for days, Lizzie sits outside, and  is reluctant to start without a bit of heat down her throat. When it gets a bit warmer, no problem.
Cheers
Hugh

[Blueflame]

Thanks for the replies and i did order and get the compression changeover valve however I stopped trying to install it because I thought it would crossthread and put back in the standard plug with a glowplug. I hadnt used the glowplug in years. I sometimes arrive at camp in minus 10 by snowmobile and have to get the 6-1 running. I use a honda 1000 watt for lights and to run grundfos circulators on a wood fired boiler. The engine cooling system is a flatplate heat exchanger connected to this boiler and with another circulator on the engine side I preheat the engine to about 120 degrees so it cranks easy then would just use a hot nail in the intake pipe to start.  I previously tried to reach central Maine but they were moving.

[mike90045]

I've got a fairly newish HATZ diesel and it recommends adding a small amount of gasoline to the diesel to help it light off.

[mike90045]

It's in their printed manual, and I think petrol is gasoline, not kerosene or anything else.

Summer fuel = ordinary diesel
Winter fuel = winterized diesel for cold areas, less wax.

Manual was pretty clear, not for wax reduction, but for starting ease

Compression ratio rating is 21.5:1

Seems like a lot of gasoline/petrol for high compression.  It starts a little rougher than my 6/1 when it's frosty outside.

[Oiler]

Hatz is german and the german word for kerosine is petroleum

[Blueflame]

I think my starting issues are over now with a new nozzle that actually sprays a mist not a stream. I tried everything imaginable to try to start it with the old nozzle and got it to start by heating the nozzle on the injector with a mapp gas torch. Got it very hot over several minutes and then quickly installed it and connected the line and it started. However it ran rough and there was a lot of smoke out the exhaust and at ran out of fuel in the middle of the night.

[vdubnut62]

You might want to check you lube oil for fuel dilution,  just sayin.
Ron.

[mike90045]

You might want to check you lube oil for fuel dilution, 
Ron.

Is there a way to check without sending a sample and $50 to a lab ?

[dax021]

You might want to check you lube oil for fuel dilution, 
Ron.

Is there a way to check without sending a sample and $50 to a lab ?

Yes, there is.  Not difficult to rub it between your fingers and "feel" the viscosity, i.e., maybe a bit thinner.  Not an exact science, but mechanics have been doing it for a century.  Also won't give you cancer.

[AdeV]

You might want to check you lube oil for fuel dilution, 
Ron.

Is there a way to check without sending a sample and $50 to a lab ?

Generally.... does it look like there's more oil in it than you put in it? That's often what kills diesels - the fuel accumulates in the sump until the conrod(s) start flinging it about, when that happens it gets into the intake air via the crank breather & before you know it you've got a runaway.