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Author Topic: 6-1 parts  (Read 2593 times)

Blueflame

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6-1 parts
« on: October 08, 2019, 05:09:19 PM »
Hello all I overheated my 6-1 and used my spare head gasket. I seem to have damaged the fuel nozzle as it squirts a stream now. I also see much less compression probably from a thicker head gasket. I am looking to buy a few nozzles, some head gaskets and an adjustable decompression valve to raise compression for starting. I cant seem to find parts anywhere. Does anyone know how to get parts? Thank you

BruceM

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2019, 06:08:02 PM »
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but no way your low compression is due to a thicker head gasket.  You likely have valve and/or ring damage.  Listening carefully at intake and exhaust should tell you about the valves.

You forgot to mention your location; in the US,  Gary at Diesel Electric Services is a great source for all Lister related parts.  https://diesel-electric.us/

There is also centralmaindiesel.com, who have the Listeroid CS parts.

Blueflame

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #2 on: October 09, 2019, 02:25:26 PM »
Thank you I will try Gary. I do think the valves are ok, broken ring is possible and I didn't check for that. the location is northern Michigan.

Blueflame

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2020, 10:46:27 PM »
The nozzle I replaced and now it starts easily despite what I thought was too low of compression. I may just seem to be when it wont start. I still need to locate head gasket spares that do not have extra holes between the main 2.  Engine is a powersolutions -jkson 2005 model 6-1. I had a lot of difficulty in getting coolant to circulate as in airlocked but got it eventually and now it transfers heat.

broncodriver99

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2020, 11:00:07 PM »
Central Maine Diesel or Jim Calder up in Canada @ just live off grid. They both deal in Listeroids.

Hugh Conway

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2020, 01:33:15 AM »
@Blueflame......
If you do decide to use a compression changeover valve, you must also adjust the bump clearance.
I have a JKSON too. Listeroids without the changeover valve use a different bump clearance, and it makes a big difference.
Wish I had one installed now, it's been -12 for days, Lizzie sits outside, and  is reluctant to start without a bit of heat down her throat. When it gets a bit warmer, no problem.
Cheers
Hugh
JKson 6/1  (Utterpower PMG ) Off-grid
Lister 6/1 Start-O-Matic engine......running with PMG
1978 Royal Enfield (glutton for punishment by Indian iron)
1963 BMW R-27 project

Blueflame

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2020, 01:56:41 AM »
Thanks for the replies and i did order and get the compression changeover valve however I stopped trying to install it because I thought it would crossthread and put back in the standard plug with a glowplug. I hadnt used the glowplug in years. I sometimes arrive at camp in minus 10 by snowmobile and have to get the 6-1 running. I use a honda 1000 watt for lights and to run grundfos circulators on a wood fired boiler. The engine cooling system is a flatplate heat exchanger connected to this boiler and with another circulator on the engine side I preheat the engine to about 120 degrees so it cranks easy then would just use a hot nail in the intake pipe to start.  I previously tried to reach central Maine but they were moving.

mike90045

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2020, 03:44:10 AM »
I've got a fairly newish HATZ diesel and it recommends adding a small amount of gasoline to the diesel to help it light off.


glort

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2020, 05:39:50 AM »
I've got a fairly newish HATZ diesel and it recommends adding a small amount of gasoline to the diesel to help it light off.

Holy Blending Ratios!!

That is a LOT of petrol especially in diesel!
Having played with WVO blends for... too long, I came to the conclusion many years ago that 20% was the absolute limit of ULP I'd add to Veg oil.

50% petrol in diesel to me seem a Mistake.  Do they mean Kerosene of something? Is this a start up fuel and then change over?
Once an engine is running, the internal Combustion temps are very quickly up to speed.  50% petrol  ( which I have never even thought to try) would likley cause Nailing (pre combustion) and make the thing run like a dog if it ran at all.

Even a low Comp Diesel is 16:1 Compression, a really good, probably computer controlled SI engine will run 12:1.    At 16:1 Petrol is going to be lighting off way early no matter what the temperature.

I don't understand the summer or winter ratings. -20 In summer? I don't even think alaska gets that cold in summer.

I would also STRONGLY suggest adding oil to blend ratios with ANY petrol or Kero.  I would be throwing in at least 50:1 2 stroke or an amount of veg oil to give the blend some lubricity.  Modern diesel is dry, Petrol has no lube value and kero is actually an abrasive.
One can't go wrong with a bit of added lube in diesel these days.

I know Hatz are a very old and knowledgeable company and I'm just an internet plod BUT, I would REALLY question those blend ratios and confirm Their specification of Petroleum is petrol and not a translation for Kerosene. Those Sort of blend ratios just don't add up to me and I would never even think to use them in any engine I have.  Cold is a minor thing over all.

I would go no more than 20% Petrol and have reservations about that in diesel anyway. If the engine wont start on that I'd be looking at something else like engine condition, injector wear and looking at starting with some heat on the cylinder/ inlet or putting some LPG or petrol down the intake.  You only need the engine to fire a few times and if it's going to run it will.  After a few seconds on those ratios they would be doing far more harm than good in my book.


mike90045

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2020, 06:45:46 AM »
It's in their printed manual, and I think petrol is gasoline, not kerosene or anything else.

Summer fuel = ordinary diesel
Winter fuel = winterized diesel for cold areas, less wax.

Manual was pretty clear, not for wax reduction, but for starting ease

Compression ratio rating is 21.5:1

Seems like a lot of gasoline/petrol for high compression.  It starts a little rougher than my 6/1 when it's frosty outside.

Oiler

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #10 on: January 16, 2020, 07:45:33 AM »
Hatz is german and the german word for kerosine is petroleum ;)
« Last Edit: January 16, 2020, 07:47:31 AM by Oiler »
1962 CS 6/1 for cutting firewood.
24 volt 600 watt vindturbine and small battery bank.

1937 Lister D

1918 Lister L

Blueflame

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #11 on: January 16, 2020, 02:25:46 PM »
I think my starting issues are over now with a new nozzle that actually sprays a mist not a stream. I tried everything imaginable to try to start it with the old nozzle and got it to start by heating the nozzle on the injector with a mapp gas torch. Got it very hot over several minutes and then quickly installed it and connected the line and it started. However it ran rough and there was a lot of smoke out the exhaust and at ran out of fuel in the middle of the night.

vdubnut62

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2020, 07:23:33 PM »
You might want to check you lube oil for fuel dilution,  just sayin. :angel:
Ron.
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mike90045

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #13 on: January 23, 2020, 07:05:52 AM »
You might want to check you lube oil for fuel dilution, 
Ron.

Is there a way to check without sending a sample and $50 to a lab ?

dax021

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Re: 6-1 parts
« Reply #14 on: January 23, 2020, 08:34:38 AM »
You might want to check you lube oil for fuel dilution, 
Ron.

Is there a way to check without sending a sample and $50 to a lab ?

Yes, there is.  Not difficult to rub it between your fingers and "feel" the viscosity, i.e., maybe a bit thinner.  Not an exact science, but mechanics have been doing it for a century.  Also won't give you cancer.