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Author Topic: 1115 build  (Read 12337 times)

Tanman

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1115 build
« on: February 22, 2019, 04:31:06 PM »
Hello fellow diesel addicts,

My first engine is arriving next Tuesday (thank you old seagull man) and I'm excited to start piecing together my first generator build. The goal for the build is longevity, fuel flexibility, and adaptability. I really want a power system that is tough as nails, isn't picky on fuel, and I can harvest multiple forms of energy off of. What I mean by adaptable is that I could have it running a 10-15kw head normally and be switched to turn an alternator to charge a battery bank in the future if needed and be able to harvest the heat from the water cooling. I would love to get one of those metal plates that allows you to run a radiator (or preferably a large barrel). I have a couple questions that I need the wisdom of my elders to solve.

1. Advice for acquiring a proper gen-head
2. Is utter power the only place that sells the cooling conversion plates?
3. Does anyone run a barrel for a radiator on their Chinese horizontal?
4. Any helpful advice for the project considering it's goals.

Thank you for taking the time to read this post, and keeping one of the coolest diy/engine forums I have found alive!
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Tanman

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2019, 04:59:19 AM »
One reason I really like the water cooling is the side effect of being able to easily heat water off grid, with that in mind, what type of cooling would be the easiest to harvest hot water off of do you think?
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ajaffa1

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2019, 12:04:19 PM »
I really wish I could get my hands on an indirect hot water cylinder in Australia. In the UK they are the norm, they are a sealed and insulated unit with one or more electric heater elements in them, some are for mains water pressure and some are for low pressure (gravity fed systems). The most important thing they have going for them is a copper heating coil which is built into the unit, these are usually connected to a gas, oil or solid fuel boiler. It would be so easy to connect one of these to a diesel engine  using a small header tank or expansion bottle, thus the coolant in the engine could run antifreeze without it contaminating the hot water supply, two completely separate systems with an electric heating backup.  A perfect solution if only they were available here.

Bob

38ac

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2019, 04:52:36 PM »
Nobody that I am aware of is selling the plates, you ha e to make one or have it made. Due to the wide bolt spacing you need at least 3/8 thick steel to prevent leaks and 1/2" is better. Looking down at the plate the inlet and outlet needs to be on opposite corners with the outlet being closest to the head. Having the return pipe extend down past the plate a ways will insure it flows tbe correct way upon first start. I had trouble with mine trying to flow backwards until I modified it. I will add some pics later when I am not using data.
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Tanman

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2019, 01:50:30 AM »
I will add some pics later when I am not using data.

Please do!
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38ac

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2019, 12:39:20 PM »
Here are some rather poor pictures of my 1115 15KW stand by set. The radiator, fan and  control switch all came from an automotive application and were about $100 new. I can find  out which one if need be.

The engine and belt driven head are nessled under a stairway  in my work shop.

 
Close up of the shop made plate. Hot water rises in the left nipple and  cooled water returns in the right one. The temp sender is 205F and   controls the radiator fan. There is zero need for a thermostat in these horizontal  applications.  The engine warms up quickly and the fan control keeps the temps constant within tne range of the senders range.


The fan and radiator set up.  You must provide and tank above tbe radiator with most radiators to ensure that coolant is always over the top hose or it doesnt work.  Certain older radiators made for Thermosyphon operation will have the tank built in.
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38ac

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2019, 12:42:38 PM »
Sorry about the large size pics i neglected to resize them
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Tanman

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2019, 02:05:30 PM »
Sorry about the large size pics i neglected to resize them

Thank you for posting!
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Tanman

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #8 on: February 28, 2019, 10:24:52 PM »
The crate arrived today! I will be cracking it open tomorrow and putting some pics up. Now I'm going to start looking for a generator head. I'm debating on whether to get a 7.5 or 10kw head. I plan on running it slower that the rated speed 1800rpm for normal operation and would love to run it slower. Would running the engine slow and turning a smaller head make a big difference in fuel consumption vs. the 10kw head?
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ajaffa1

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #9 on: February 28, 2019, 11:35:04 PM »
I am a big fan of running a generator head that will actually stall your diesel engine. This is because the wire gauge in the larger generator is bigger with better slip rings and brushes. The problem of stalling can be overcome by fitting an appropriately rated micro circuit breaker between the generator and load, this will trip out before your engine stalls.

Economy is determined by the load applied not by the RPM the engine runs at, running it slower will reduce the available output but will also increase the longevity of your setup.

Bob

BruceM

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #10 on: March 01, 2019, 12:42:52 AM »
The point of lowering engine speed is not fuel economy, it is to match the (smaller) load to engine output, which is especially important for diesel engines, which won't last long on light loads.

I think it's member Veggie who made a very nice setup with dual pulleys so the diesel engine could be better matched to different loads. 

38ac

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #11 on: March 01, 2019, 11:17:31 AM »
You can absolutely throttle the engine back. Under light loadings it will save a bit of fuel but the bigger issue is noise.  A 1115 up against the stops is one obnoxious sob.  My set up runs just under 1800 rpm. The larger ones like the 1115 are equipped with balance shafts and you should keep the RPM above the gear rattle stage.  Also keep in mind that the injection timing is set for factory RPM thus long hours at heavy  loadings and reduced RPM would benefit from retarding  the timing a bit.
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Willw

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #12 on: March 01, 2019, 01:36:40 PM »
Hello all, can anyone please measure the diameter of the 1115 flywheel?

Has anyone tried driving the gen-head off the engine flywheel rim like we do with the Listeroids?

I am trying to get a rough idea of the size pulley that would be needed for the alternator in order to reduce engine operating RPM.

I don't have a Chinese horizontal yet, but I've been drooling over the 1130's on Alibaba.com and I hope to have two along with some spares by the time my birthday rolls around.

I figure I could reduce the RPM on that monster and still run most anything in the house.
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Tanman

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #13 on: March 02, 2019, 05:27:19 PM »
So I'm still stuck between a 7.5kw and 10kw head, either one would be plenty of power for me. If they are both rated at their respective power at 1800rpm, would it be better to pony up for the 10kw and run it at 1400-1500rpm (with WI and timing adjustment) if my main goal for this build is longevity? Also, here are some pics of the engine fresh out of the crate and mounted to a dolly for working on and moving around.
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38ac

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Re: 1115 build
« Reply #14 on: March 02, 2019, 06:20:21 PM »
I run a 15KW on mine.  Don't need that many and the engine wouldn't pull it if I did. The extra capacity does two things for you. It helps start motor loads such as water pumps or A/C units and you have more amps available to either 110 volt branch circuit when wired for 220 operation which saves on load management.
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