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Author Topic: CS 18/2 Engine  (Read 353 times)

Stijn_CS_18/2

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CS 18/2 Engine
« on: June 28, 2020, 08:53:17 PM »
Hi,

We have an ancient tractor with an 2 cylinder Lister Engine.
The Engine has a plate with  SN CS 72105 SPEC 18 2 34  HP 21 RPM 1200.
So I expect this engine is a CS 18/2 from 1950.

Unfortunately we need to work on the engine because the water flows to the oil.
I can't find much info about this CS 18/2 engine on the internet. Like no references on parts shops or on instruction books.

Can someone help pointing me in the correct direction, is this engine better known on another type, is it equal to a JP2 or 16/2 or ... ?

We would like to run this magic engine again.
Thanks for your help.

Greets, Stijn Depraetere

AdeV

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Re: CS 18/2 Engine
« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2020, 02:55:42 PM »
It'll be a JP2 engine - each JP cylinder is rated at 9hp @ 1000rpm (so 9-1, 18-2, 27-3 and 36-4). The easiest way to confirm is if it's got enclosed pushrods. The CS engines have them exposed. Also, with few exceptions, the CS engines have 2 flywheels, the JP engines mostly have one flywheel. Also IIRC the JPs (possibly excepting the JP1) have a rotary injection pump, whereas the CS engines have a cam-operated pump.

A serial no. of 72105 actually puts it at the back end of 1949, the first 1950 engine was  no. 73328.

PS: it's 38/4 not 36/4. Not sure where they found the extra 2hp from...
« Last Edit: June 29, 2020, 02:58:51 PM by AdeV »
Cheers!
Ade.
--------------
1x Lister CS Start-o-Matic (complete, runs)
0x Lister JP4 :( - Sold to go in a canal boat.

Stijn_CS_18/2

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Re: CS 18/2 Engine
« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2020, 08:22:25 PM »
Thanks a lot for the feedback, it make it all a bit more clear.
The engine has indeed internal valve-pushrods and a circular driven injection pump.

I added a few pictures.

Can someone help me at some instructions/operation/workshop manuals of this JP2 engine?

e.g. I want understand how to start this engine, on one side I see rotary valves on the other side push valves, I know that is something to do with compression, but what is the normal operation sequence for starting this engine?

Thanks, Grts Stijn.





AdeV

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Re: CS 18/2 Engine
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2020, 07:48:51 PM »
The rotary knobs are the compression changeover valves. Screw clockwise until they seat to put the engine in high compression (for starting). Once the engine's running, they can be spun out until they stop, now the engine is in low compression. This is the preferred operating mode.

The buttons on the other side are the decompressors, one per cylinder. Their purpose is to hold the exhaust valve open (pulled out), to give you a chance of spinning the engine, by hand, sufficiently fast to start it. The tricky part, in your situation, is going to be reaching around the front wheel to hit the decompressor, preferably without getting tangled in the starting handle and before you lose too much momentum!  My old JP4 had a long rod on it, which ran past all the decompressors to the front; having worked up a sweat turning the engine, you could engage all the decompression buttons at once.... at which point, you just had to hope it fired on the first cylinder, or you were screwed!

So, the starting procedure would be: Pull both decompression buttons out. Turn the compression changeover knobs to high compression. Ensure fuel is switched on. Crank on the starting handle as hard as you can.... get a friend to push one of the decompressor buttons in. Keep cranking! When it fires and starts to run by itself, push the other decompressor in. It should pick up and run on both cyls. Once it's been running for a few seconds, unscrew one of the decompression knobs until it stops huffing and runs on two cyls again. Repeat with the other one. Job's a good 'un!  Make sure you video it and post on youtube.... a) People love to see/hear old Listers run. b) Comedy gold potential :D
Cheers!
Ade.
--------------
1x Lister CS Start-o-Matic (complete, runs)
0x Lister JP4 :( - Sold to go in a canal boat.

sirpedrosa

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Re: CS 18/2 Engine
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2020, 11:45:33 PM »
Hi Stijn

In addition to AdeV, if you cannot do what he said, please send it to my garage. I've nothing now on my pristine clean bench.

Any help, just say.

BR
VP
Bernard 18A - 1968 (mama's water pump - year of my birth)
Petter PAZ1 - Jun 1967, 3HP, sn 416xxxx
Petter PAZ1 - Nov 1979, 3HP, sn 425xxxx
Lister 12/2 - 12651227, the pearl!

listard-jp2

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Re: CS 18/2 Engine
« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2020, 07:43:03 AM »
That is some tractor, I think you should consider an engine upgrade to a Lister JP4  ;D

What make of tractor is that, and where are you based.

Back to your original question:

Unfortunately we need to work on the engine because the water flows to the oil.

The most likely cause of this problem is cylinder liner 'O-ring' failure.
It is not likely to be cylinder head gasket failure, as the pushrods (where water is most likely to get into the oil) pass through a threaded 3/4" BSP tube which is screwed into the top of the cylinder block, the head then passes over this tube, and a large nut and washer is screwed down onto it and into a recess in the cylinder head.

The cylinder liners have two 'O-rings' and between the first and second 'O-ring' a tell tale hole is drilled, this should indicate when the first O-ring has failed.

richardhula

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Re: CS 18/2 Engine
« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2020, 08:15:44 PM »
The rotary knobs are the compression changeover valves. Screw clockwise until they seat to put the engine in high compression (for starting). Once the engine's running, they can be spun out until they stop, now the engine is in low compression. This is the preferred operating mode.

The buttons on the other side are the decompressors, one per cylinder. Their purpose is to hold the exhaust valve open (pulled out), to give you a chance of spinning the engine, by hand, sufficiently fast to start it. The tricky part, in your situation, is going to be reaching around the front wheel to hit the decompressor, preferably without getting tangled in the starting handle and before you lose too much momentum!  My old JP4 had a long rod on it, which ran past all the decompressors to the front; having worked up a sweat turning the engine, you could engage all the decompression buttons at once.... at which point, you just had to hope it fired on the first cylinder, or you were screwed!

So, the starting procedure would be: Pull both decompression buttons out. Turn the compression changeover knobs to high compression. Ensure fuel is switched on. Crank on the starting handle as hard as you can.... get a friend to push one of the decompressor buttons in. Keep cranking! When it fires and starts to run by itself, push the other decompressor in. It should pick up and run on both cyls. Once it's been running for a few seconds, unscrew one of the decompression knobs until it stops huffing and runs on two cyls again. Repeat with the other one. Job's a good 'un!  Make sure you video it and post on youtube.... a) People love to see/hear old Listers run. b) Comedy gold potential :D

Here is another innovative method of single handed hand start on a JP2M (marine version) with the alternate rocker cover mounted decompressors.

« Last Edit: July 18, 2020, 08:19:11 PM by richardhula »