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Author Topic: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.  (Read 13797 times)

Viking66

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #15 on: April 13, 2018, 08:01:23 PM »
I have begun my cleanup and tear down of this Beast and I discovered it is a 24/2.  I measured across the cylinder and it mics out at 5.11" and 129.7mm  According to the Power Line site that would be there 24/2  It also has the 20" x 4" Flywheels too.

Ok, does anyone know if there are parts available, such as a Gasket set?  It doesn't appear that I will need anything else as this was a complete motor when I bought it.

I never mentioned that I was able to buy this on ebay with a "Buy it Now" for $1199.00 and a trip to Waco, TX and back for a round trip of 1090 miles all on a Saturday...LOL.  I had been saving up for a new single, but when I saw this one I just had to make the move.  I am not sure the value of it, but my plan was to keep it anyways because I just love the look and sound of them!!!

Thom

Viking66

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #16 on: April 13, 2018, 09:34:30 PM »
It appears that the valves are touching the tops of the pistons.  You can see a shadow of them on the piston tops.

How would I prevent this in the future?

Thom


BruceM

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #17 on: April 14, 2018, 01:23:48 AM »
Valve clearance to the piston is small, so with some carbon build up, valve shadowing is noticeable by the 1000 hr decarbon time.

Check your bump clearance, and valve depth in the head just to be safe.  It's a good idea to not trust what comes from Rajkot without going over everything carefully.

 

38ac

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #18 on: April 14, 2018, 02:13:19 AM »
 You should be ableto get 130mm head gaskets from Gary at DES. If not then Central Maine diesel.  I have one but that doesn't help you.much. If those valve shadows are all black it's OK. If they are silver but no dents in the piston they are REAL close. All the high speed engines I have been in show similar patterns on the piston

.
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Viking66

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #19 on: April 14, 2018, 04:19:04 AM »
The Valve Shadows are all black, nothing indented into the pistons.  Thanks for letting me know it's a normal thing.

I drained the oil, that was not a pretty sight, and there is about 3/8" worth of sludge on the bottom of the sump, so of course that is getting a good clean out.  How does the front oil drain pipe get mounted?  I pulled it out so I could clean the screen, and it was totally plugged.  I figure that's why I wasn't getting any oil pressure.   I thought there would be a big nut like on the outside, but in the sump, but I don't see one.

I am having a lot of fun.  I really like doing this sort of thing.  If not Generators, it's old outboards. or old boats, or new boats, or building at my Swamp Camp.  I figure if I stop I will just get old.  I am 53 now, so there are a lot of projects in front of me...LOL

38ac

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #20 on: April 14, 2018, 11:40:49 AM »
Assuming your engine was made in the stardard manner you first loosen the suction pipe between the drain and oil pump, be sure to hold the fittings that goes into the pump and drain, you just want to turn the tube nut.
 There is a jam nut on the drain fittimg, loosen it just until it's free and them turn the entire drain fitting to the left as you jiggle the suction pipe and remove it when free. Then remove  the fitting and clean the screen and sump. There is a paper washer,  or sometimes string under the jam nut and that is what seals the drain fitting and it needs to be in good shape. If you need to make one the I.D. needs to be right, make a punch from a sharpened piece of pipe or tubing and use gasket paper the medium thickness type. Because the pump is mounted above the oil things need to be right with it to function. See my twin build thread for some info on that. They also need some oil in them or they won't prime and oump. Remove the guage and squirt oil in the top to accomplish that.
« Last Edit: April 14, 2018, 12:25:27 PM by 38ac »
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Viking66

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #21 on: April 14, 2018, 02:49:52 PM »
I see now how it goes.  I was a bit tired last night when I was looking things over and missed seeing that there are threads in the block, or case...whichever we call it.  Mine had a string that came out when I loosened the Jam Nut.

I plan to do more cleaning today.  This is the worst part...but also the best part because you get to see what has been going on with the engine and it helps to give a plan on how to proceed.  ;D :D

ronmar

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #22 on: April 14, 2018, 04:44:08 PM »
If the check ball in the pump is gummed up and not sealing, it wont pump either.  Had to do a bit of polish work on my single pump to get it working well. 

If your squish is too tight, the valves might be closer to the piston than they should be, but your pics do indeed look like carbon buildup...  #6 lead shot from a shotgun shell works great for measuring squish as the consistent size lead ball squeezes out very nicely.  The shot from a single shotgun shell will last you about a hundred years of normal testing.  The base gasket stackup is used to set squish.  i use a little dab of grease to hold the lead shot in place on the piston top directly over each end of the wrist pin.  Doing it like this will also show you if your cylinder is tilted In relation to the plane that the piston/rod travels in.  Pay attention to the placement of any half gaskets under the cylinder base.
PS 6/1 - ST-5.

Viking66

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #23 on: April 16, 2018, 03:03:14 AM »
I believe I have the Oil Pump Straightened out, but I do have a question.  There are slots on one side of the ball housings, which way do those go?  I am think towards the direction of the flow.  Things were quite gooey and messy when I took them apart so I didn't notice the slots.  I can always take a pic for clarification if needed.

I have also discovered I have a huge issue!!!  I want to paint this beast and to do it correctly I want to remove the Flywheels.  I have removed the Huge Starter bracket and on the side that had the starter and car flywheel attached as a Belt drive.  I was able to get that to come off after loosening the bolts and then using a puller it inched its way off the shaft.

Then I found this as the Gib Key   Ughhhhh!!!  I have tried a few things already, but really need some advice on this.  I have a welder, although I am not the best at it.  I have some nice sized hammers.  I have lots of penetrating fluid and also heat.....  Advice Please  :) :D


BruceM

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #24 on: April 16, 2018, 03:47:00 AM »
Oh boy, that was a nasty surprise.  Hopefully 38ac will have a tip for you.   I think I'd make a side hammer with a shaft and weld that on.

mikenash

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #25 on: April 16, 2018, 04:31:48 AM »
FWIW I reckon there are a couple of options:

One - a slide hammer - a bit of shaft welded to it with a big sliding weight and a lump of something welded on the end - see pic?

Two - weld a length of something like M16 High Tensile threaded rod to it and make a bit of a "puller".  Tension it up with the puller and apply some heat and patience around the hub area - with CRC or INOX or whatever as a penetrant.  "Patience" might be the key

Others will have thoughts

mikenash

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #26 on: April 16, 2018, 05:49:28 AM »
Also, I think keysteel is funny to weld?  Might want to use an RSP or some sort of rod for odd steels?  Again, someone more educated than me will know.  Good luck

ajaffa1

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #27 on: April 16, 2018, 12:34:52 PM »
Hey Viking66, I came up against this exact problem a while ago. I found that I could easily weld a length of threaded rod to the remains of the gig key. To avoid weld splatter damaging the crank shaft I cut out an old baked bean can to cover it. I then used a piece of 100 mm pipe and some 12mm steel bar to improvise a puller. Didn`t work first time but she came out on the second attempt, please see photos

Bob

Viking66

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #28 on: April 16, 2018, 02:05:04 PM »
Awesome!!!   Awesome!!!!  Awesome!!!!  Just they type of advice I am looking for!


ajaffa1, Thank you for the pics.  I have all of that in my Garage and I hope to make that work.  This board is a very cool place, and the knowledge is really appreciated.

Thom

38ac

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Re: Greetings All!!! New To me Twin Power Line.
« Reply #29 on: April 16, 2018, 02:52:48 PM »
For as long as there has been gibb keys people have seen similar issues with heads sheared off and same people have been looking for an easy work around and so far none have surfaced.  What I do in the shop is same thought pattern I use with twisted off bolts and studs,  avoid methods that have the potential to make the problem worse. Unsuccessful welding makes things to hard to drill with ordinary bits, off center drilling has it's own set of problems. I avoid drilling except as last resort and have never had to do it,, yet.   You can google removing stuck gibb keys or similar and get all kind of information.  How I do it is not easily or cheaply replicated but neither do I make the problem worse with my methods.  If it makes you feel good spray some pen oil on it otherwise just avoid the mess and have at it. Hopefully there is at least a small bit of room between the flywheel and housing, if not then the first thing I do is cuss whoever installed them >:(  If there is even a small amount of room to move inward mount an old  taper lock pulley hub to the shaft right at the end. I then use two porta power cylinders between the hub and flywheel to push the flywheel inward. If the key stays put on the shaft it can usually then be knocked out with a long chisel working through the spokes. If it moves with the flywheel all is not lost as you have indeed loosened it to some extent.  Next tool is similar to what was posted, a length of pipe that fits over the shaft and long enough to reach the flywheel and a couple inches  past the end of the crankshaft. Make a cap for the pipe from at least 3/8" steel that has hole a bit larger than 1" in the middle. You need  1" fine thread grade 8 bolt and nut or a length of grade 8 all thread (warning! $spendy$$)  The nut gets tack welded to the cap and goes inside of the pipe. Weld the cap to the pipe. Adjust the length of the pipe so you maximize use of the threads you have on the bolt then cut a slot in the pipe the width and length of the exposed key. Do not make the slot so wide that you can get weld on the shaft.  Weld the pipe to the key and then tighten the puller bolt up tight to the shaft. I cannot type exactly how far to tighten it but you dont want to break your puller at this point.  Then go find something else to do for a couple hours.  When you return see if the puller has loosened. If not then its your judgement how hard to lean on the puller. I do NOT like to heat flyhweel hubs and avoid it except as only recourse. I will break the puller before I use heat and have only had one that required it and it wasn't much. If the flywheel try to come with the key you need a helper to knock on the flywheel hub while the puller is being turned
Collector and horder of about anything diesel