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Author Topic: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1  (Read 7210 times)

Fowler

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Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« on: January 04, 2018, 10:49:21 PM »
Hi All,
   Ive just bought a 4.5kw 8/1 genset, thats quite ill, just wondering what the difference is between the 6/1 and 8/1 engines? It would seem that the bore and stroke are the same with the RPM's being different, I have also read that the 8/1's have aluminium pistons. Are the bottom ends the same? Would I be able to use a 6/1 barrel and piston? Both are seven stud.
Kind Regards
      Steve

dieselgman

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2018, 10:59:39 PM »
Flywheels are different as well. All parts can be interchanged.

dieselgman
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Fowler

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2018, 11:19:03 PM »
Thanks for the reply mate. The flywheels are much heavier than those on my 6/1 and 5/1. Did the 8/1's have chrome bores too? I hope to keep the genset together as all the numbers match on the bed plate but it will be a working unit rather than a display.

dieselgman

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2018, 11:58:29 PM »
Chrome plated bores.
Balancing adjusted for lighter piston, engine setup and adjustments also a bit different.
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listard-jp2

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #4 on: January 05, 2018, 09:10:40 AM »
Would I be able to use a 6/1 barrel and piston? Both are seven stud.

I am guessing from your UK based?

If your engine has the usual cylinder bore problem of wearing through the chrome plating where the top ring stops when on TDC, then I may be able to help you out as I have a variety of oversize 8/1 (Aluminium) pistons available.

Send me a PM if this sounds like a solution that would work for your engine.

listeroil

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #5 on: January 05, 2018, 11:25:00 AM »
Another difference is the governor weights. They are lighter on the 8/1 engine.

Mick

Fowler

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2018, 12:54:18 AM »
I think ill pull it apart and see what nasty's greet me! I know there is a problem with the idler gear as it rattles like hell at certain points in the rotation, this does seem to be a known problem. Is it an option to put a dry liner in the cylinder? is there enough meat in there?
The more I read about the original lister CS's the further in the house the engines get, at the moment the 8/1 SOM is in the kitchen and I have a 3.5/1, 5/1 and 6/1 in the baby's play room! dont ask me how Ive pulled that off, its taken years of practice! lol.

dieselgman

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2018, 01:10:03 AM »
You will have to inspect water jacket for corrosion, but they will easily bore for a sleeve if corrosion has not gone to an extreme.

Idlers do wear and will start to rattle after a lot of wear and tear - that usually means very high hours.

Are you teaching your baby to play with engines?   ;D

dieselgman
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Fowler

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2018, 01:29:08 AM »
I think the fact that its a SOM means its done many hours and I guessed the worse when I bought it to be honest. Would you know the cylinder wall thickness? Whats the problem with the idler? is it just a bush in the centre?
The baby is two and is the proud owner of a Fordson Major already so playing with engines is definitely part of the educational process around here.  :laugh:

dieselgman

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2018, 01:58:09 AM »
Cast iron idler pinions on hardened steel shafts... no bushing so of course, they will wear with time.

dieselgman
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Fowler

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #10 on: January 06, 2018, 02:51:33 PM »
Would bushing it be a reliable fix?

dieselgman

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #11 on: January 06, 2018, 10:14:19 PM »
The Indians have tried using soft bronze idlers... quiets down the gear noise, but longevity is another matter. I am a purist most of the time on these and prefer to stay with the cast iron gear. A bushing may extend its life a bit, but no guarantees of that and not a lot to gain.

dieselgman
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Fowler

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #12 on: January 06, 2018, 10:58:02 PM »
I was thinking maybe an EN 36 nitride hardened bush and shaft may give good service, obviously, things have to wear and will but extending the life is the key. I dont like the idea of the bronze gear, cast iron is best as it work harden's. Is there scope to widen the boss on the idler gear or does the crank web pass too close?


dieselgman

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #13 on: January 07, 2018, 01:06:05 AM »
I don't see room for any additional width in that part of the block... but the pinion has sufficient width to accept a bush. You generally want a soft surface against a hard surface to maximize service life of the parts... but I still think you are trying to re-invent the wheel. In my experience the OEM idlers are not particularly troublesome on these engines. Keep in mid that most parts of this type machinery do better with ample clearances for oil to flow through as there is no pressurized oil feed to any of the moving parts.

dieselgman
« Last Edit: January 07, 2018, 11:10:10 PM by dieselgman »
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ajaffa1

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Re: Lister CS 6/1 and 8/1
« Reply #14 on: January 07, 2018, 09:36:49 PM »
G`Day Fowler. chack out 36ac on the wall of knowledge. He turned a new idler pinion shaft on his lathe, with an offset to take out the slop between the cam gear, idler gear and crank gear.
Bob