Author Topic: adequate break in load  (Read 2265 times)

davesiegler

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adequate break in load
« on: November 29, 2017, 01:46:35 AM »
so its a 10/1. 7.5 kw head. im loading it it at 4300 watts. Is that enough load for ring break in or do i have to heat the forest? lol !! how many hours till it  hopefully stops the blueish smoke? about 6 hrs now on it. only a little better. my experience says rings have seated and something else is going on. oil level doesnt seem to high on the dipper. A fellow on here mentioned venting the crankcase fumes from the powershed and i think thats next.
 stinky

mike90045

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Re: adequate break in load
« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2017, 06:22:21 AM »
I load my 6/1 to 2,500w, and get clear exhaust, took bit over 100hr break-in.

Because these run so cold, I think you need higher loading to press the rings onto the walls with a bit more authority.

EdDee

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Re: adequate break in load
« Reply #2 on: November 29, 2017, 11:03:20 AM »
Hi Dave,

Took even longer on mine due to running on WMO and sump-gunk, a good coupla 100hrs....Mine used oil until everything seated in nicely, this was with a semi controlled cooling system, averaging around 90C...My other unit, has seated in quite nicely now, only around 20-30hrs, running very cold on a 200L ebullient cooling system(Seldom gets to running temp), this one runs quite cool in comparison... Temp seems to have had little to do with it. One thing to note though - I am now not using synthetic oils or detergent based ones... I have oil filters installed/retrofitted on both units.... I like the "old school" way of using the sump apron to settle out the crap... On initial run in, using 20w50 on the first engine(Along with WMO fuel), it took an age.... After rebuild, with straight 30W oil on my second unit(Dreaded Dino Juice), things were much, or seem to be much quicker...

My 10c worth...

Cheers
Ed
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dieselgman

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Re: adequate break in load
« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2017, 01:05:42 AM »
On our testing bench, we add load to a new engine gradually right up to the point that the exhaust starts to show overload (black smoke), then back off just a little. As you get a few loaded hours on the machine, you can gradually increase the load until such time the unit can pull 100% rated capacity. Break-in with certain lube oils will increase the time required, best bet is to start out with a non-detergent oil and change it out in first 25 hours. In most cases, 25 hours will achieve 90% of your break-in requirement. Of course it is always best to run with at least 75% load or better regardless of the age of the parts involved.

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cujet

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Re: adequate break in load
« Reply #4 on: November 30, 2017, 01:15:35 PM »
I have a 20/2 that occasionally powers my house. I run the central AC to load the unit. It took quite some time for the engine to fully break in and the rings to seat. I don't remember just how many days, but it was many weekends.

Also, I put oil in the cylinder head and that causes smoke too.
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38ac

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Re: adequate break in load
« Reply #5 on: December 01, 2017, 11:58:05 AM »
Break in can be accomplished with any load from near none to full loading. The no-nos are no load and loading that causes black smoke which is actually an overload.  The variable is how long it takes. A prim and proper CS engine or clone will not smoke blue from the get go  other than what ever oil was placed in the cylinder during assembly and it goes away in less than a minute or operation. That same prim and proper engine will not smoke from the breather from minute one. Any engine that smokes from either source for long periods has issues that are not break in issues in the technical sense of the word.

Blue smoke can be from lubricating oil or from partially burned fuel.
  Causes of continued blue smoke are many, some will fix themselves, some will not. Engines that have set for long periods of time will often have stuck or sticking pintles in the injector and that will cause blue smoke along with other issues.  Simply running the engine with clean fuel and one of the many good fuel additives will often fix a sticky injector but just as often the injector needs to come apart. Incorrect injection timing will also cause blue smoke as will old stale fuels.  The new engine build that left my shop last week had an injector stuck so bad that i had to replace  the nozzle.   Blue smoke from oil can come from valve guides that have holes drilled in the sides, an India modification that is detrimental. The holes will quickly drain the oil from the lubrication wells and the engine will smoke from that and never stop as long as the operator keeps putting oil in the wells. Crankcase oil levels that are too high along with dippers installed sideways will flood the cylinder with oil and the engine will both smoke blue and slobber oil from the exhaust. Oil coming up past the rings can also be due to bores and ring damage from the sand, slag and dirt that was left in the engine during assembly.

Breather smoke
Engines that puff profusely from the breather also have issues that are not actually break in issues in the proper sense  but instead have problems from bad tolerances, bad bore finish and/or bad assembly, and  sand, dirt and grim left in the engine that has left the rings and bores scratched. Depending on exactly which of these issues you have the breather smoke may take a very long time to go away or it may never go away. Heavy loading will make it go away sooner IF the rings and bore are not heavily damaged.

 Bottom line is it is impossible for anyone this side of the computer screen to know  how long or even IF your engine will ever stop smoking from the exhaust or breather if all you do is run it.  I agree that heavily loading the engine will answer the question more quickly, however it is not the cure all for all possible issues.

Link is to video of  a CS clone on it's very first start. this illustrates what I am saying that smoke is not normal, it is a symptom of issues. 
https://youtu.be/1lxUaI854PA

« Last Edit: December 01, 2017, 01:50:10 PM by 38ac »
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BruceM

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Re: adequate break in load
« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2017, 02:44:10 PM »
Running smokeless and smooth on a wooden pallet on wheels, no less! 
Sweet!

veggie

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Re: adequate break in load
« Reply #7 on: December 05, 2017, 01:05:29 AM »

Mine did not smoke so much during break-in but it did blow a lot of crankcase mist from the breather until the rings seated.
I ran it at 50% load for a couple of hours and then 70%-80% from then on.
Rings seated after about 5 hours.

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