Author Topic: oiling schedule (Read 7232 times)

mike90045 · « **on:** January 10, 2017, 07:42:22 AM »

So, when running, how often do folks oil the
rockers & valve stem tips
pushrods, uppers and lowers
valve sumps (30 wt or 90 wt ? )
fuel pump cam follower piston

EdDee · « **Reply #1 on:** January 10, 2017, 08:52:17 AM »

Hi Mike,

rockers & valve stem tips - Before I start, then every 4 or 5 hours if it is a lengthy run.
pushrods, uppers and lowers - Before I start, nothing during run.
valve sumps (30 wt or 90 wt ? ) - Before I start, Slopped oil from oiling rockers is enough during a lengthy run.
fuel pump cam follower piston - Before I start, then every 4 or 5 hours if it is a lengthy run.

Additional:
Governor linkages and hinge point - Before I start, then every 4 or 5 hours if it is a lengthy run.
Apron Oil level check - Before every run, pending oil consumption every x hours during a lengthy run, aftermarket dipstick fitted to apron side, make sure it is within 1/4" of max (max for me is 1/2" below big end)

All oil used is generally SAE40 pending availability... 20W50 of straight 40 not available...

Cheers
Ed

38ac · « **Reply #2 on:** January 10, 2017, 02:44:02 PM »

I dont disagree with Ed's schedule but most of the engines I see or work on are very much neglected for lubrication in those areas and they don't seem to suffer much for it. Guess I am saying that there isn't science to it, Every 8 hours is fine so is once a day, so is almost none. The Amish never oil any of it and a person would think the affected parts would all be worn out but they are not.

dieselgman · « **Reply #3 on:** January 10, 2017, 06:34:39 PM »

Seems to me I saw 8 hours listed in the L/P manuals as a recommendation for a little squirt of lubrication. Certainly not rocket science.

dieselgman

Hugh Conway · « **Reply #4 on:** January 10, 2017, 06:42:44 PM »

We run nearly every day at this time of year for charging batteries and usually it is a 2 hour run. Around 300 hours annually.
After checking crankcase oil frequently for a couple of years, I do not check very often any more, as no oil add has been required between changes. I just look around for leaks and figure if there are none, them I am good to go. Oil changes at 250 hours reveal a full sump, little oil usage.
Linkages get oiled once in a while (a vague schedule!) but never seem to really need it, as the whole engine always has a light oil film. The gen set lives under a shed roof, but outside in a damp environment, and there is never a rust problem
Valve gear.......the pushrod and tappet cups are oiled only when there is no oil in them.......probably an average of once a week (say 12 hours run time)
I do squirt the rockers, rocker shaft, and top of the valves before every run, that put oil into the valve guide sumps.
After 1200 hours, it is all operating smoothly. I have had other issues, but lubrication is not one of them. These are very forgiving engines and the stresses are not great with the slow speed and only 6 HP output!
Cheers,
Hugh

Tom · « **Reply #5 on:** January 11, 2017, 04:41:47 AM »

After 12 years and about 2500 hours, I've gotten a bit lazy and only oil the valves maybe every 12 to 20 hours. The rest maybe 4 or 5 times a season. No change in oil level between 250 hr changes.

Combustor · « **Reply #6 on:** January 12, 2017, 08:49:43 AM »

Somewhere in the early'60'sLister supplied a batch of VA StartOmatic gen sets to the old Postmaster General's Dept.(now Telstra and Aus Post) to power remote phone exchanges and post offices where regular maintenance and good cooling water were in short supply. They were fitted out on a skid base with an extended oil reservoir and connected to a large overhead fuel tank in a locked enclosure. The service crews arrived evey 7 or 8 weeks to service them and refuel. They ran continuously unattended and I believe they survived remarkably well on that service schedule. There are still one or two of these plants in existence as living proof of their durability, so perhaps a little healthy neglect is not all bad. (VA = aircooled version of 8/1).
Combustor.

mike90045 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 05, 2017, 06:58:37 AM »

Valve spring wells
maybe I have stem seal issues, or maybe 90w gear oil isn't thick enough. After about an hour of running, the intake well is dry.
I guess it just sucks it in ! So how much lube is needed on the stems as they bounce around on the springs or is this so worn I need new guides ?

dieselgman · « **Reply #8 on:** February 05, 2017, 07:22:30 AM »

Mike,

I would hazard a guess that your valve guides (and perhaps valve stems) are quite worn to draw out the oil at that kind of rapid pace. At one time there were some parts issues posted here regarding some Indian Listeroids and the existence of extra lube holes drilled through the guides at the valve spring wells - ill advised and responsible for a few issues. Of course, if the engine performs normally in all other respects, there is no particular urgency to dealing with the problem. I would just follow the 8-hour lubrication recommendation and let her go at that.

dieselgman

Tom · « **Reply #9 on:** February 05, 2017, 10:59:59 PM »

Mike, you don't have enough hours on that engine for the valve guides to worn. I have a set of valve guides like Gman describes with the lube hole at the bottom of the oil well. The engine will smoke like a bugger until all the oil in the well is gone. The guide can be easily fixed by welding up the hole or even a good piece of heat shrink tube over the guide.

George A · « **Reply #10 on:** February 05, 2017, 11:31:49 PM »

Quote from: Tom on February 05, 2017, 10:59:59 PM

Mike, you don't have enough hours on that engine for the valve guides to worn. I have a set of valve guides like Gman describes with the lube hole at the bottom of the oil well. The engine will smoke like a bugger until all the oil in the well is gone. The guide can be easily fixed by welding up the hole or even a good piece of heat shrink tube over the guide.

.......or maybe bore out the guide and push in bronze inserts?

mike90045 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 06, 2017, 12:39:33 AM »

I guess I'm not welding with the head on, so I'll just keep at the lube for a while longer.

If I lock the piston to TDC, can I pull the valve train and springs, and get something
in there to plug the hole ? Could I see the hole with a dental mirror? Would something like
a toothpick jammed into it do the trick, or slow it down ?

Tom · « **Reply #12 on:** February 06, 2017, 12:49:42 AM »

If you don't want to spend the 15min it takes to pull the head.

With the piston at TDC, use a socket to loosen the retainer and then a pair of screw drivers or a pickle fork can be used to press down the retainer and remove the keepers. Once the spring is off you should be able to see the hole in the side of the guide. I'd just slip a piece of heat shrink over the guide and shrink it in place to keep the oil from going down the hole.

38ac · « **Reply #13 on:** February 06, 2017, 01:09:49 AM »

I would imagine that you will find holes in the guides. The way they lubricate the oil won't go down that fast even when the guifes and stems are worn out. Yes you can place the engine at TDC and remove the retainers and springs. I drive a piece of lead shot in the holes. To make homemade melt some solder above a bucket of water. Tom's suggestion should work too.

BruceM · « **Reply #14 on:** February 06, 2017, 05:00:10 AM »

My best friend is JB weld, next best is high temp silicone.

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