Loctite makes a good product for an easy fix if you catch it early...
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?19911
from that URL
"The proper way to install bearings and races."
no, the proper way is to make sure bloody things are in tolerance and fit.
there is the proper way, and there is every other way.
loctite and all the other "stick shit" and plastic metals do more harm than good, bodged up crappy half assed jobs that are ten times as expensive to fix properly afterwards...
back in the day when I was earning a living as a marine engineer, I used to celebrate the fact that most boats had onboard engineers who were bloody useless, because if they were any good I'd have been out of a job, but the ones with cupboards full of stick shit and plastic metal products were my favourites, because they turned every single minor job into a major money earner, and as an aside made me look really good because you'd end up replacing so much buggered up kit that instead of a small running repair that didn't make a whole heap of difference, you'd replace whole assemblies or subassemblies, which looked nice and shiny new and also usually noticeably improved the performance of whatever the thing was.
using stick shit products on a lister style engine is like using "no more nails" to make an axe handle out of toothpicks
don't get me wrong, ___SOME___ of these products, when USED APPROPRIATELY are marvellous, we have a silicone product here called "Sticks like shit", all the tradesmen buy it because the name says what it does, it does stick like shit, what it gets used for is in new build houses, all the wall units are stuck onto the plasterboard with two small tacks to hold it while it dries, fast, cheap, dirty and crap.
we did the plumbing for the 2" fire main on this boat
(and castlemaine's tub too)
it had previously been done in malta during an earlier refit, leaked everywhere for days, so when we did it everyone is standing around waiting for leaks....
we used the old adjustable pipe die that dad nicked off the yanks army when it came over for the landings in ww2, and red lead and oakum, skipper had to put his hands on the pipe to feel the cold and thrumming because he didn't believe there was any water in it, never mind pressurised, literally not a drop leaked.
red lead and oakum was possibly slighly more messy on the hands when using it, but cleaned off REAL easy when done, it was DIRT cheap, less than 1% of the cost of stick shit crap, it allowed you to disassemble in years if needed, and allowed you to assemble as slowly as you liked to get your angles and lengths right (anoyone who has done piping will know what I mean) and most importantly of all it actually did the job 100% where none of the stick shit products could come close
gasket paper+ grease, maybe the odd bit of shim steel, that is all anyone needs to build a lister style engine....
God knows how many old engines are still going around on gaskets I've cut out of cornflake packet or cigarette carton or pirelli calendar, if the faces are good that;s all it needs, if the faces aren't good then dress the bloody things up until they are.
In Hotaters case (no pix so guessing) braze em up and line bore and bush and job's a good un
rocker shafts always have vertical loads, they wear at the top and bottom, if you select the right materials even as it wear in to the bushing it will keep the full bearing surface area, so all you need to watch is losing the lube out the bottom gap, if you wanna high tech it here is a good place to fit needle rollers, HD used them on heads yonks ago and they are still better than anything the jap bikes had.