Glort, that other meter is reading the input from my solar panels. I think it was reading around 4/5 amps, it was raining when i took the video..
Just for you, tomorrow I will make another video. Ill slow the engine down so you can see the current drop on the display. Will that satisfy you? Then will you stop calling me names? And, is there anything else you would like to see? That display was actually stuck on 100 amps, thats the maximum it will read, in fact the alternator was pushing out more, the display just couldnt read any higher.
The older alternators have a bigger safety margin, like I said, they are bigger in bearing size, rotor size and stator wires are bifilar wound, so you can easily get 30 percent or more from them by changing the diodes and removing the regulator.. Your later types are made lighter, but have superior electronics to protect them... this is the march of progress. Its like with pulleys, they use flat belts now so to use smaller pulleys to allow more compact engine compartments, they can take more load to run more accessories like aircon, power steering pumps etc. Everything gets smaller as we progress. I just happen to like the older types, you dont.
And to add.
I dont own a Rev counter to show you the engine RPM, another person here has guessed it by the sound to be around 1000 rpms..... I can only give the maths of the 5 inch and 4 inch pulley overdrive, this is what, 20 percent? That would have the alt spinning at 1200 RPMs in the vid.
I dont have a clamp meter either, and my multimeter goes only to 20 amps..
I am confident the digital display and current shunt are accurate, these were sourced from Farnell, a reputable company in the UK, now called element 14. Given the voltage display coincides exactly with my multimeter, I doubt there is any great error.
Are you a conspiracy theorist by any chance?