Yet another question

[guest23837]

I have decided to get a new injector nozzle and new rings. I'd like to deglaze the barrel, should I buy the spring loaded stones, use wet and dry paper of get it done professionally? Thanks especially to dieselgman you been very helpful.

[dieselgman]

If your bore is straight and relatively unblemished, then one of the glaze-busters with round stones will do a nice job very quickly. If there are any bore anomalies, the glaze-buster will just hide them from you and the problem will remain after the service work.

dieselgman

[guest23837]

The bore looks ok, cross hatching is hard to see, I left the injector in for pop testing and a a new nozzle. When the guy popped it he said the spray was bad and the engine would probably smoke. He will fit a nozzle at the weekend and I will be able to give her a test run next week. I was planning to do the rings etc because of the light coloured smoke, maybe injector will cure it??

[dieselgman]

Yes, if your injector spray pattern was less than perfect, then that could easily be the main source of your smoke problems. Hopefully it was not run too long with the problem. An array of follow-on problems can result from excess carbon and unburned fuel residues depositing inside the engine. Exhaust inspection is always a part of our daily routine when running a diesel genset for this reason.

dieselgman

[guest23837]

I want to check the spill timing however there are no marks at all on the flywheel. Is there any way around this problem?

[dieselgman]

There should be marks visible through the housing after you remove the starter motor.

dieselgman

[guest23837]

It's a hand crank engine, no electric starter was ever fitted, there's supposed to be marks scribed on the flywheel you align with a mark on the cowling but there's none. If I marked TDC on the flywheel how could I calculate the distance in degrees? Measure the flywheel circumference in mm and divide by 360?

[guest23837]

Here is a link to a couple of short videos showing the engine smoking. With the exhaust in place the smoke is much worse I believe the exhaust may have crud inside. Any comments welcome, thanks guys

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5rkqrbqgavh4tjb/WP_20160331_13_54_23_Pro.mp4?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vnweyu6myfron6h/WP_20160331_18_08_05_Pro.mp4?dl=0

[guest23837]

Here is my calculation the flywheel is 12"

12 x 2.54 x 10= 305mm x 3.14 = 957 mm circumference  / 360 = 2.65 mm per degree x 18 = 48mm  BTDC on the flywheel. Is this a "near enough" way to set the spill timing? Apologies for my hill-billy maths

[dieselgman]

On your smoke issue... it is perfectly normal for it to puff a bit each time you change its speed. If it does so under constant load, then you should start looking at fuel injection components, air filter restriction, and such.

For good results, the engine must be loaded, must be properly broken-in with rings and valves sealing well.

For diagnostics regarding engine condition... 1.) How easily does it start up?  2.) Once warmed up, what amount of crankcase vacuum does it pull?

Injection timing would be suspect primarily if it were knocking or having trouble with starting up.

dieselgman

[dieselspanner]

Hi John


That's how I did my 6/1, although to get the circumference I marked the fly wheel and rolled it along the floor, then measured the distance between start and stop. I marked the flywheel in 10 degree increments (to 30 degrees) before and after TDC with a chisel, then the marks are there for checking the valve timing. (I did BDC at the same time)

For the odd ones in between a 'Tipex' typing error correction pen draws a fine line and shows up well in a gloomy shed, after you've scribbled all over the flywheel it comes of with a drop of thinnners.

Less formulae and much less thinking, closer still to true bush engineering!

Cheers Stef

[guest23837]

On your smoke issue... it is perfectly normal for it to puff a bit each time you change its speed. If it does so under constant load, then you should start looking at fuel injection components, air filter restriction, and such.

For good results, the engine must be loaded, must be properly broken-in with rings and valves sealing well.

For diagnostics regarding engine condition... 1.) How easily does it start up?  2.) Once warmed up, what amount of crankcase vacuum does it pull?

Injection timing would be suspect primarily if it were knocking or having trouble with starting up.

dieselgman

Hi Gary

The engine starts OK on the excess fuel setting when cold although it needs a squirt of oil when the temperature is below zero. The smoke is very light hazy smoke hard to see in the video unless you adjust the speed. That is the spare injector the guy with the one needing a nozzle is "on top of his head" but he's going to so it soon!
The engine is out of an old cement mixer so probably had a hard life maybe I'm expecting too much from an old engine?

[guest23837]

Hi John


That's how I did my 6/1, although to get the circumference I marked the fly wheel and rolled it along the floor, then measured the distance between start and stop. I marked the flywheel in 10 degree increments (to 30 degrees) before and after TDC with a chisel, then the marks are there for checking the valve timing. (I did BDC at the same time)

For the odd ones in between a 'Tipex' typing error correction pen draws a fine line and shows up well in a gloomy shed, after you've scribbled all over the flywheel it comes of with a drop of thinnners.

Less formulae and much less thinking, closer still to true bush engineering!

Cheers Stef

Hi Stef, thanks for the info and reply. It's only a little flywheel and still attached to the engine. It's almost 40  years since I left school and I forgot what little the teachers tried to beat into me!. I think i can find TDC with the piece of wire method then mark the flywheel on the edge with a thin cutting disc? Maybe a piece of twine to get the circumference and after that the tipex marking sounds like an excellent idea it's really only for peace of mind and because it's not marked. Gman reckoons that if she starts easy the timing isn't a mile off. Off to the shed !
Paul

[dieselspanner]

Hi Paul (Not John!)

A piece of cotton stolen from the Mrs sewing box would be better for measuring the circumference of the flywheel, wrap it around 4 times then divide the result by 4 for a bit more accuracy.

Try this to find TDC

Fix a semi permanent pointer on the flywheel rim.

Adjust / clamp down either the inlet or the exhaust valve (in the open position) with the piston at BDC.

SLOWLY and CAREFULLY rotate the flywheel until the piston contacts the valve head and stops.

Mark the position of the pointer on the flywheel.

Rotate the flywheel in the opposite direction (SLOWLY and CAREFULLY) until the piston touches again.

Mark the position of the pointer on the flywheel as before.

REMOVE clamping device / readjust valve.

TDC should be exactly between the two marks.

Cheers Stef

[guest23837]

Stef,

you’re full of cunning and ingenuity!

 P