Lister 12/2 restoration - Oil splasher removal

[mygoggie]

I think I found the reason why the engine was "scrapped" - A case of "the broken oil splasher". 

What is the best way to remove this? Secondly must I replace this hollow splasher with a solid one or a new hollow one? Thirdly how do I secure it in place without punching it again?

[dieselgman]

"Best" way to remove? depends on how well locked those threads are. You might try an easy-out stud remover first, and if that fails, very carefully and gradually drill the old part out. You might be able to tap it back to the original size and thread if you get your drill to remain dead-center (probably best done in a drill press with table vise). Worst case scenario - replace the connecting rod altogether.

The dippers I am familiar with use a locknut to align and retain in place. It is my understanding that the hollow dipper is effective when used with the proper type rod bearing but the solid dippers work fine as well.

dieselgman

[mygoggie]

"Best" way to remove? depends on how well locked those threads are. You might try an easy-out stud remover first, and if that fails, very carefully and gradually drill the old part out. You might be able to tap it back to the original size and thread if you get your drill to remain dead-center (probably best done in a drill press with table vise). Worst case scenario - replace the connecting rod altogether.

The dippers I am familiar with use a locknut to align and retain in place. It is my understanding that the hollow dipper is effective when used with the proper type rod bearing but the solid dippers work fine as well.

dieselgman

Thanks @dieselgman - I think I will get my friend to mill it our for me and then we can retap the hole to original specs.

[dieselgman]

I think I would try the easy-out method before drilling or milling the part. Blue Point makes a very useful set with a straight splined hardened shaft that you drive into the offending part to remove it without damage to original threading.

dieselgman

[mygoggie]

OK, I will try a splined removal tool and if not successful use a left hand drill bit.

[Tom]

How about a regular twist drill. It the punches will prevent the dipper from backing out, but a regular twist drill will just drive it out the other side.

[mygoggie]

I tried a spline removing tool. The dipper's metal was so soft it just forced it into the cap's threads. I then drilled the remaining dipper metal out, matched a tap to the exposed thread and retapped the hole. Only issue is I stay in a metric country and did not know a 5/16" BSW thread is not the same as a 5/16" BSF thread ..... so now I need to make a plan to get the hole back to 5/16" BSF thread ... anyhow lesson learned - another thing to remember.