Jkson 6/1 rebuild

[dieselgman]

If belt tension seems to be an issue then a sprung idler pulley is a good direction to go. Most of the modern diesels use this method for almost maintenance-free belt management. You can also use the idler to get a better wrap around the offending (chirping) pulley.

dieselgman

[biggkidds]

If you use an idler make sure it's on the off load side close as possible (with in reason) to your driven load pulley.

Larry

[Gippslander]

The idler sounds like a useful idea to consider

This is the pulley . It started out as a 2A  , I machined the centre away . I will try a serpentine belt and see how it goes .

I am making the ST-3 mount right now, out of angle iron and other stuff  . The pulley in the pic is just sitting on the shaft for a check .





I had a interesting day yesterday. My neighbour Gary is a steam enthusiast. He owns a Foden Steam traction engine , he is also a trained machinist and he has a great workshop, with two lathes a horizontal borer , a big radial arm drill and more . Anyway , a rally is being held and my neighbour's friend arrived in a 1920's steam truck , also Foden brand .

The TOOT TOOT of a steam whistle is really nice to hear    The truck sits on solid rubber tyres . While I was there , they fired up the traction engine ,it takes a few hours to get it up to full steam, it runs at 150 psi with a 9" cylinder .

Gary tows a gypsy style trailer behind the traction engine, it has bunks, a stove , sink and a fridge too . They both set off this morning to the rally on quiet back roads ( not the freeway ! ) , it will tale them all day to reach the rally .

[mike90045]

I've found using 10mil black pipe wrap tape on the flywheel, creates enough of a crown, that the belt tracks fine for weeks. After a season, the adhesive starts to creep and it's just a 15 minute job to replace it.
As Tom said, it's just a mystery.

[Gippslander]

Hi

The Honda civic radiator has arrived, it looks great .

The COV valve should be here in the next few days

Been playing with the ST-3 mount .... it is looking Ok I think , the welded angle pieces slide along the lower angle iron .

[Gippslander]

I have been trying to lessen the effect of  the backlash in the injector rack

This is a setup I am trying out , the spring provides a slight pushing force onto the rack

BTW in order to stop the cast crank lever from jamming, I had to grind about 1/8"from the inner face of the spindle on the crank , made it shorter . After I did this, the crank lined up with the rack more evenly , it had a bad misalignment . You can see where the bolt has space or gap because  the lever has been moved inwards

[Combustor]

Hello Gippslander,
                       On my VA engine (Aircooled 8/1) the linkage showed some wear, so I just hooked a light spring between the heads of the split pins on the crank arm and the rack.
The little clevis piece on the rack end needs to slide and rotate freely in the crank arm, but I get a useful improvement in governing response from the simple mod. Spring only needs
 to be quite light, or it will cause binding where the rack clevis slides in the arm.
Combustor.

[Gippslander]

Hello Gippslander,
                       On my VA engine (Aircooled 8/1) the linkage showed some wear, so I just hooked a light spring between the heads of the split pins on the crank arm and the rack.
The little clevis piece on the rack end needs to slide and rotate freely in the crank arm, but I get a useful improvement in governing response from the simple mod. Spring only needs
 to be quite light, or it will cause binding where the rack clevis slides in the arm.
Combustor.

Hi up in the Kimberley

That sounds like a good mod. Do you have any pics ?

I've never seen a VA model , everybody seems to rave about them   

Just after I bought the Jkson roid. I spotted an original Dursley 6/1 with  generator  for sale locally .....

[Gippslander]

Still making the St-3 mount

The COV arrived and it is fitted into the head.  The COV Doesnt seem to make much difference to the compression while hand cranking the engine over, but I will try it out after the radiator and st-3 are mounted .  

I am not very strong , and not a big guy.  I may have to look into fitting a starter of some kind .. maybe compressed air ?

http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=6790.0      PS just read this post ................ great idea and this is what I will be doing

[Hugh Conway]

Gipp:
I bought one of these friction starters as in your link. Installed it on my JKSON about 1 1/2 years ago.
The mounting tabs are welded onto the starter case with 3" clearance between the tabs.
Had some 3" channel aluminum left over from constructing the racking for my solar panels, a nice fir with the starter tabs. A pick handle modified to have a starter button in the end provided the lever. An old car battery, and Ford type starter solenoid, Bob's your uncle!
Worked great, still works great.
Cheers, Hugh
BTW, I put a COV in that same engine (JKSON), it started OK with the valve screwed in, the high compression setting. Would not start at all with the valve screwed out to the low compression setting. I went back to the plug. Used the same COV in my Dursley 6/1, it works as designed there, high compression makes hand starting very easy.

[mike90045]

It's not being strong or big, but practice, and getting enough RPM into the flywheels to let the flywheel do the compression.  That said, i get fire on the first compression above freezing, but below freezing, takes another round to get it starting.   You may have to disengage the generator, sometimes that extra loading slows you down when temps are cold and the crankcase oil is thick

[Gippslander]

It's not being strong or big, but practice, and getting enough RPM into the flywheels to let the flywheel do the compression.  That said, i get fire on the first compression above freezing, but below freezing, takes another round to get it starting.   You may have to disengage the generator, sometimes that extra loading slows you down when temps are cold and the crankcase oil is thick

Hi Mike

Yes it is mostly practice , it takes a while to build up the confidence of giving it a fast swing over . Is there any chance these engines can backfire ?  If the injector timing is too early , maybe there is a chance of a backfire ?

I read that somebody on this forum reported of a Lister CS engine running backwards 

[carlb23]

.  I may have to look into fitting a starter of some kind .. maybe compressed air ?

http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=6790.0      PS just read this post ................ great idea and this is what I will be doing

Here is the air start on my roid.  I can't believe i posted this video 7 years ago. I used a Gast 4am air motor.  As others have mentioned it is more about technique then strength when starting by hand.  Synthetic oil in the cold of winter is a big help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LL2zUvQIIuY

[Combustor]

Hi Gippslander,
                   No chance of a backfire when cranking a prpoerly timed diesel in the right direction. If cranked too slowly it may bounce back off compression, but will not generate enough compression heat to actually fire, or "backfire" in the way that a poorly timed petrol engine will. Think you would have to crank a 'roid backwards at considerable speed to get it firing, as timing would be less than ideal.
         Have seen older multicylinder truck diesels run in reverse when rolled or towed backwards when in a forward gear and that's a bit frightening. Newer rotary pumps are built to shut off when reversed.
          Am sure your 'roid will start much easier when it has bedded in and has a few working hours under its belt. Load it to near capacity once you are sure all is OK with it. A multigrade oil will help cold cranking.
          Combustor.

[BruceM]

A very nice engine setup, Carl.  I've also been using a Gast 4AM pneumatic motor starter for the last 7+ years.  Still on the original rubber roller, working well.  My Listeroid is both generator and air compressor power source, so air start was a natural for my setup.  I've copied the air-friction starter setup for the DES 8/1 propane conversion project engine, which is also dual use, generator plus compressed air.