Author Topic: Jkson 6/1 rebuild  (Read 134052 times)

Gippslander

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #165 on: April 21, 2015, 01:45:18 AM »
Once you have the offset weight in the correct place (your marks are vertical when on the stands) any weight added or subtracted to correct the total offset weight must be done in-line with the marks.

In other words if you drill holes in the light side to add to the offset weight they would be spread out equally either side of the light side mark. If you add strips of lead they would be added  to the heavy side again equally either side of the heavy side mark.

Ok thanks
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Gippslander

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #166 on: April 22, 2015, 11:20:10 AM »
Ok I have the balancing sorted out. I used construction adhesive and glued the lead weights onto the wheel that needed some weight added to the counterweight .

At last I can now finish assembling the roid and fire it up.

I might give it a short run without coolant , maybe one minute of running will not over heat it .

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BruceM

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #167 on: April 22, 2015, 02:38:15 PM »
 I've been doing load test runs with short pieces of heater hose connected, tied together above the cylinder.  I fill with a hose.  I purge it with new water for a new run.  Perhaps 10 minutes before boiling.

Gippslander

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #168 on: April 23, 2015, 11:58:38 AM »
Getting closer to the first test run. The engine crane saves my back from destruction  :o lifting the flywheels is no fun

I have discovered that the lever that controls the injector pump rack is sticky , the lever jams as you push the rack in/out .

I have ordered a new fuel filter , a Delphi . I am also doing the Fram paper air filter modification .



« Last Edit: April 23, 2015, 12:15:38 PM by Gippslander »
Gippsland is in the S.E. corner of mainland Australia

Gippslander

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #169 on: April 24, 2015, 09:12:49 AM »
Hi

I have been looking at the little yoke that fits onto the end of the injector pump rack, the yoke has a round pin machined on its end  ( not the pin that goes through the yoke itself  ), and the pin  is not a good fit in the bore of the control arm, the rack tends to jam because  the free play in the yoke pin behaves like a hinge  .

I may have to make a new yoke , or maybe improve the existing yoke by building up the pin and then machine it back to make it a tighter fit in the bore of the control arm .

As it is, I dont think it would function very well .

I borrowed this pic from docdiesel


PS  just got back from the shed, I fitted a bit of .003 " brass shim around the pin and the effect is excellent , no more jamming . Also fitted a bras washer in the yoke .






« Last Edit: April 24, 2015, 11:13:00 AM by Gippslander »
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Combustor

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #170 on: April 24, 2015, 02:06:37 PM »
         Hi Gippslander,
                            Have been running a similar spring setup on the linkage of my VA (aircooled 8/1) for several years now, and governor control is definitey better, Started with a spring like yours but found it made the yoke pin stiff due to side pressure. A much lighter spring seemed to be OK, as it only has to take up any freeplay. Good luck with the project,
Combustor.
           
Toys include- Lister CS 8/1, Lister VA SOM plant and some Aussie engines.
   "Old iron in the Outback" Kimberley, West Australia.

Hugh Conway

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #171 on: April 24, 2015, 05:21:00 PM »
@Gippslander
Re your gov linkage photos and mods:

On my JKSON, there was much slop in the yoke as in your photo. I also made a bushing for  the linkage & installed where you have the shim. As your, it worked very well.

In your photo, it appears that the yoke and rack are not parallel. I also had the same situation, which caused binding. The bellcrank can be carefully
bent to provide proper alignment.

Also tried the additional spring between the yoke and bellcrank, but noted no improvement, so deleted it.

Finally, the real secret (for my engine, and a few others, at least) was the governor spring as described in the WOK section of this forum. With all the gov linkage mods except the spring, I was able to get no load- max load Hz difference down to 4Hz. Replacing the oem gov spring resulted in no load-max load Hz difference down to 1Hz. the engine has maintained that small variation in RPM difference for several hundred hours of operation. There is very little RPM over-run or sag on abrupt loading of unloading.....about .5Hz

Cheers,
Hugh
« Last Edit: April 24, 2015, 05:24:26 PM by Hugh Conway »
JKson 6/1  (Utterpower PMG ) Off-grid
Lister 6/1 Start-O-Matic engine......running with PMG
1978 Royal Enfield (glutton for punishment by Indian iron)
1963 BMW R-27 project

Gippslander

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #172 on: April 25, 2015, 11:57:44 AM »

In your photo, it appears that the yoke and rack are not parallel. I also had the same situation, which caused binding. The bellcrank can be carefully
bent to provide proper alignment.


Hugh

Yes thanks for spotting that . 

I will be changing the governor spring as it seems to be a worthwhile mod .

On another topic, my flywheels are 23 and 9/16" diam.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2015, 12:07:20 PM by Gippslander »
Gippsland is in the S.E. corner of mainland Australia

Gippslander

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #173 on: April 28, 2015, 02:54:37 AM »
Can somebody confirm that the threads on the Listeroid Indian fuel  hoses are 1/2"UNF  , the threaded ends that thread into the Indian  fuel filter ?

The Indian fuel hoses are absolute rubbish, they leak all over the place .

I am fitting some half decent hoses right now .

PS Is there any trick to priming the injector pump eg removing all of the air ?
« Last Edit: April 28, 2015, 10:47:53 AM by Gippslander »
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Combustor

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #174 on: April 28, 2015, 11:38:39 AM »
          Once you have an air free flow of fuel from the pump bleeder then loosen the pipe nut at the injector a turn or so. Then apply compression lift , look at the pump tappet and find a position where you can rock the flywheel back and forth to give the pump a full stroke. Easier than cranking. When clear fuel spurts from injector nut, tighten and rock again till you hear the injector creak or grunt, and you are good to go.
         Combustor.
Toys include- Lister CS 8/1, Lister VA SOM plant and some Aussie engines.
   "Old iron in the Outback" Kimberley, West Australia.

dieselspanner

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #175 on: April 28, 2015, 11:43:36 AM »
Hi Gippslander

I've just been up the shed and the threads in the oil cooler I had delivered a couple of weeks back, from the States (tho' they are definitely Indian) are 1/2" UNF

'Course yours might be...............

Cheers Stef
Tighten 'til it strips, weld nut to chassis, peen stud, adjust with angle grinder.

Gippslander

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #176 on: April 28, 2015, 12:42:24 PM »
          Once you have an air free flow of fuel from the pump bleeder then loosen the pipe nut at the injector a turn or so. Then apply compression lift , look at the pump tappet and find a position where you can rock the flywheel back and forth to give the pump a full stroke. Easier than cranking. When clear fuel spurts from injector nut, tighten and rock again till you hear the injector creak or grunt, and you are good to go.
         Combustor.

Thanks combustor

Where is the pump bleeder ?

My pump seems to be faulty ,  I cannot get it to squirt any fuel out of the top at all ?

I have the pump set up on the bench . As I manually  push the plunger in , fuel squirts out of the inlet hole , not out of the top
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38ac

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #177 on: April 28, 2015, 12:50:16 PM »
When you benched tested did you have the rack open? The pumps send always send a small amount of fuel back the inlet , but more when the rack is closed.
There Is no pump bleeder screw on the Indian pumps.
Also easier than hand cranking is to remove the high pressure line. Turn engine until the pump tappet is down. Then remove the fitting under on top of the pump that retains the delivery valve, there is a spring under it so be sure to catch it. Then lift the delivery valve with your finger and wait for fuel. Once fuel appears hold it down with your finger to save mess. Bubbles like to cling and to knock them loose you tap the pump body, filter and connecting line with something similar to a screwdriver handle. Lift the valve and let trapped air out, repeat until there are no more bubbles. Reassemble retainer and high pressure line at pump, loosen HP line at injector and crank until fuel appears at nut tighten and turn 3-4 turns and injector wil creak, tighten fitting,,done.
« Last Edit: April 28, 2015, 12:52:38 PM by 38ac »
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Gippslander

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #178 on: April 28, 2015, 03:03:03 PM »
When you benched tested did you have the rack open? The pumps send always send a small amount of fuel back the inlet , but more when the rack is closed.
There Is no pump bleeder screw on the Indian pumps.
Also easier than hand cranking is to remove the high pressure line. Turn engine until the pump tappet is down. Then remove the fitting under on top of the pump that retains the delivery valve, there is a spring under it so be sure to catch it. Then lift the delivery valve with your finger and wait for fuel. Once fuel appears hold it down with your finger to save mess. Bubbles like to cling and to knock them loose you tap the pump body, filter and connecting line with something similar to a screwdriver handle. Lift the valve and let trapped air out, repeat until there are no more bubbles. Reassemble retainer and high pressure line at pump, loosen HP line at injector and crank until fuel appears at nut tighten and turn 3-4 turns and injector wil creak, tighten fitting,,done.

Right .

I just came inside .... I installed the pump back onto the engine , after  playing with the pump and making some adjustments I now have fuel squirting out the end of the pipe to the  injector .

My method :  I loosened the pipe hold down nut on top of pump , then I used a syringe and squirted some fuel down the pipe from the injector end until the fuel came out the pump end . This filled the pipe with fuel .

I found a  screw on the pump body on the opposite side of the inlet hole , opening that screw made fuel bleed out so maybe thats the bleed screw ?

Anyway it seems to be Ok now

I will give it a fire up tomorrow, its too late now 12 midnight

Mike

Gippsland is in the S.E. corner of mainland Australia

Gippslander

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Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #179 on: April 29, 2015, 02:43:05 AM »
Well, this morning a puddle of fuel is all over the floor, the roid decided to have a leak overnight .

This roid now has a official name " LEAKY "

Gippsland is in the S.E. corner of mainland Australia