Puppeteer

Author Topic: Jkson 6/1 rebuild  (Read 111834 times)

dieselgman

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3172
    • View Profile
    • Lister Parts
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #15 on: January 20, 2015, 01:45:56 PM »
There are many name brands applied to the coating products that can be properly used on the interiors of the iron blocks... it all boils down to the same thing though. You need a product that will stay in place throughout the temperature ranges and chemical exposures that will exist inside your block and never break down nor decay under all possible operating conditions. The "epoxy" coating I use is also designed specifically for wiring insulation in generator windings... and even more specifically the rotor where severe mechanical stresses and temperature extremes are sometimes experienced.

dieselgman
ALL Things Lister/Petter - Americas
Lyons Kansas warehousing and rebuild operations

BruceM

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2936
    • View Profile
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #16 on: January 21, 2015, 12:03:54 AM »
Thanks for the timely words on block prep and paint, 38ac, it's much appreciated.

Hot tanking is not possible where I live, but I recall someone doing a nice job with lye in a plastic trash can. 

Any suggestions for a specific brand for the block interior, something I can get a small amount of?  Epoxy would be preferred in terms of odor, I think.


Hugh Conway

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 471
    • View Profile
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #17 on: January 21, 2015, 01:12:43 AM »
Thanks for the timely words on block prep and paint, 38ac, it's much appreciated.

Hot tanking is not possible where I live, but I recall someone doing a nice job with lye in a plastic trash can. 

Any suggestions for a specific brand for the block interior, something I can get a small amount of?  Epoxy would be preferred in terms of odor, I think.


No hot tank here either, I used a cut-down plastic barrel with water and Tri Sodium phosphate (TSP). Soaked it overnight, really cleaned things up, removed the gunge and stripped the paint too.  Just left bare cast iron, didn't re-coat with anything, though a good purposed coating would look nice in there.
Cheers,
Hugh
JKson 6/1  (Utterpower PMG ) Off-grid
Lister 6/1 Start-O-Matic engine......running with PMG
1978 Royal Enfield (glutton for punishment by Indian iron)
1963 BMW R-27 project

38ac

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1987
    • View Profile
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #18 on: January 21, 2015, 02:05:08 AM »
Bruce,
The singles fit nicely in a 55 gallon drum. Cut the top off, set it up on some blocks and build a fire under it, the heat really helps and you dont need nearly as much lye.  Lye can be had on Ebay by it's chemical name (escapes me :-\) Before I had redneck hot tank 2 this is how I did mine.  I bought a jug of lye the size of a antifreeze bottle and used about a 1/3 of it in the drum. Any of you guys considering this please use a face shield and gloves minimum and a apron is really nice too. I also dump a couple bottles of cheap dish soap from the dollar store to help cut the grease and oil so the lye works better and faster.
What I have been using for paint I get from WW Grainger part # 1D276 but it ins't propitiatory made by Spray-on  #EL601 and comes in spray can or brush on. Drys fast and hard, kinda nasty to breath so use outdoors and stay upwind.

Collector and horder of about anything diesel

BruceM

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2936
    • View Profile
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #19 on: January 21, 2015, 02:46:04 AM »
Thanks for the tip, 38ac.  I've got a friend who is the paid help on the project, and he can spray the Grainger product.  Drying hard and fast bodes well for lack of odor after the fact.

dieselgman

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3172
    • View Profile
    • Lister Parts
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #20 on: January 21, 2015, 06:17:47 AM »
Sodium Hydroxide is the chemical name for lye. Heat IS necessary for good action on the castings.

dieselgman
ALL Things Lister/Petter - Americas
Lyons Kansas warehousing and rebuild operations

Gippslander

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 229
    • View Profile
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #21 on: January 21, 2015, 08:01:00 AM »
If I did hot tank my engine, I would use a plastic garbage bin and caustic soda .  One thing that is worth trying is a electric heating element .  At a garage sale, I bought a 240V water heating element, I think dairy farmers used them years ago for steralizing stuff. Maybe a element out of a domestic hot water tank would work ?

I am thinking of running a small grinder over the internals , this will at least make the surfaces smoother .

The painting. I am worried that the paint will not adhere and it will then contaminate the oil .  I can by epoxy paint here but I dont think it is rated for the temperatures of the listeroid oil etc. I will stick to plain iron Never heard of Glyptol over here but I have seen gear boxes inside painted with a red lead ..Mike




« Last Edit: January 21, 2015, 09:31:45 AM by Gippslander »
Gippsland is in the S.E. corner of mainland Australia

PaperPatched

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 15
    • View Profile
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #22 on: January 21, 2015, 11:58:09 AM »
When I was in my late teens we would build a fire under a 55 gallon drum full of water and add a box of washing soda (Sodium Carbonate,  Na2CO3) from the supermarket.  We then used a tripod of poles to immerse a V8 engine block and brought it to a full rolling boil. The engine blocks came out a beautiful gray cast iron, looking like they were newly made.  A friend uses a 10-amp battery charger to clean rusty woodworking planes by electrolysis; they come out beautiful.

BruceM

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2936
    • View Profile
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #23 on: January 21, 2015, 08:19:52 PM »
I think red insulating electrical varnish is sold under lots of names besides Glyptol.  I found some on Amazon. 


mike90045

  • Mendocino Metro
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1569
  • Mmmm BBQ
    • View Profile
    • Mikes Solar PV page
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #24 on: January 22, 2015, 07:27:54 AM »
...  I can by epoxy paint here but I dont think it is rated for the temperatures of the listeroid oil etc.....

uh, how hot does your listeroid oil get?   On a 60F day, after a 3 hour run, my crankcase is almost 120F. Just warm.  Most paint would take that I think.     But if you don't get all the oil out of the pores of the metal, the paint may lift right off.
 The hottest thing I've found on my engine, is the cap on the exhaust valve stem, that's started to cook the indian paint off.

Gippslander

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 229
    • View Profile
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #25 on: January 22, 2015, 11:28:21 AM »
I have noticed my cylinder liner protrudes a tiny bit above the head deck, maybe 010"  Should it be level with the deck ?

And, what is the best method to get it level ?  thanks  Mike
« Last Edit: January 22, 2015, 11:30:16 AM by Gippslander »
Gippsland is in the S.E. corner of mainland Australia

dieselgman

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3172
    • View Profile
    • Lister Parts
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #26 on: January 22, 2015, 01:30:47 PM »
I have seen .003" to .005" listed as the liner protrusion spec - not flush. If the thing was flush, it would probably still work but more likely to develop a compression leak at head gasket. If protrusion is too large, then sealing the water jacket openings at head gasket will become more of a challenge. Original Dursleys did not use liners at all. A lathe is a fine tool for the job if you have access to one large enough for the job and a competent operator.

dieselgman
ALL Things Lister/Petter - Americas
Lyons Kansas warehousing and rebuild operations

BruceM

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2936
    • View Profile
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #27 on: January 22, 2015, 03:34:29 PM »
Pull the liner, check the groove in the cylinder for crud and look for machining flaws that would prevent the liner from fully seating before cutting down the liner.

I fixed my liner by the the cautious hand file and feeler gauge method.  Got it to 0.004 protrusion from over 0.010.  finished the surface of the liner with a disk sander.  Much less nerve wracking to have the machine shop do it, and by hand you must be very, very careful.

Check your cylinder face and head for flatness or you'll be going through head gaskets rapidly.  That can also be corrected by hand, via 80 grit sandpaper on plate glass and a lot of elbow grease.  Much easier to let your local machine shop do it.





carlb23

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 527
    • View Profile
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #28 on: January 22, 2015, 03:43:55 PM »
I have my 6/1 apart now and the liner protrusion is .005

Gippslander

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 229
    • View Profile
Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« Reply #29 on: January 23, 2015, 07:35:24 AM »
Ok thanks all of you . I measured the liner protrusion, it is .008" . Its only .003" above .005" so I will leave it as is. I plan on using a head gasket sealant called blue HYLOMAR , it was developed by Rolls Royce and it is widely used .

Yes I will check the head and deck for flatness

I bought some cypress pine for the base . I think its cypress macrocarpa , which originally was found in California . It has been widely planted over here, mainly  in wind breaks on farms for 100 years or more . Its a very stable wood . 
Gippsland is in the S.E. corner of mainland Australia