pics

[Gippslander]

pic of the crankshaft of my Jkson 6/1

cant see any sand or grit, the inside has not been painted

One thing that worries me is, the bore does not have honing marks, I cant see any in that pic .

[32 coupe]

The dipper looks like it is in the wrong direction.

[32 coupe]

I haven't been here for a while so I don't know the the history but I will say if
it's a "new" engine experience has shown us not to run them without a teardown
and rebuild.

I'm just sayin, ......

[BruceM]

+1 for teardown and close inspection.  Not much chance you've gotten the first flawless Listeroid.  
Make sure you remove the connecting rod from the piston.  I had buried treasure there.  Others have found treasure in the governor endcaps.  The Listeroids are so simple to tear down that it makes much more sense to check everything over carefully before running.

[xyzer]

The dipper direction is debatable but the sand issue is a well discussed no debate issue on this site. Wipe your bare hand all over the inside of the crankcase. If you feel anything other than oil it has sand. Even if it passes that test there are pockets it hides! There are many other issues that can be identified and corrected while it is apart. A well crosshatched bore and a loaded break-in will assure a long lasting "oid". We all had to do it

[ronmar]

+1, pull that sucker apart!  I got nearly a half cup of sand and casting flash out of the inside of my cylinder after I pressed the cylinder liner out.  Once apart take a scribe and scrape/punch/push around all over the inside of the case.  What you are looking for are pockets of casting sand that were painted over. The sharp point of a scribe will push thru the paint into these pockets.  A pressure washer may dislodge them also but the inside surface is difficult to cover completely...  As mentioned disassemble the piston completely.  Any sand up inside the dome WILL trickle down and wipe your main rod bearings and perhaps kill your crank.  This alone is enougn reason to pull and check it so you don't kick yourself later... 

What type sump do you have.  Mine had the traditional tip out section where the filler plate used to be located on the original listers except mine was cast shut.  This section had no paint down inside the tipout on the upper side.  It also was not cleaned of sand.  If your block is like this reach down thru the main access door and put your fingers up against the roof of this section and you will probably feel what I am talking about.   This will also give you an opportunity to paint the inside properly(cuts way down on oil weeping thru the porus cast iron).

[38ac]

Circled are a few white specs that could be from your flash or sure look like sand grains. As others have said, never seen a clean one.  Dipper is wrong, should be edging into the oil as was originally done by Lister. Anyone who doubts the ability of an edge turned dipper should remove that crankcase door after just a minute running. Last several I have went through averaged two pant can lids worth of sand/slag/ash and as they said a lot of it is very hard to see unless the engine is apart.

[Gippslander]

Yes I will pull it apart 

I have George Utterpower's CD . His writing is clear and easy to understand , he seems to have it all covered .

OK the dipper is the wrong way around , yikes glad I found that out 

I hope to find a genuine Lister CS one day , there are a few of them around in this part of the world .

Regards  Mike

[32 coupe]

Off the top of my head I seem to remember the following as a few of the items to look for and set up
or adjust, I'm sure others will chime in with things I've forgotten. ...

1....clean and measure everything you can...a few simple tools and some "back yard " engineering
      will go a long way. A magnetic dial indicator ,  some"plasti gauge" and a set of calipers as well
      feeler gauges will do.

The dipper also acts as a locator  for the bottom rod bearing. Before you disassemble check measurements
as you go. Remove lower rod bearing, check to see the dipper is not touching the crank throw. Reset the
dipper in the correct position, look for dirt and or sand then "plasti gauge" and record. That way as you
tear the rest the engine down you wil know what has to be worked or reworked and what is good. Do this
as you go and you will be surprised how easy it will go back together.

Measure crank "side play", rod "side play, wrist pin, "head squash", cylinder height........any thing you
would do as if it were the final assembly. ......record EVERYTHING.....


CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN.......I can't stress this enough.  I used a needler scaler on everything I could.
Everyone seems to have their favorite method...do what works best for you.

READ, READ, READ........I read here many months before my first engine....there is a lot of ground to
cover to get a reliable and long lasting engine.

Check EVERYTHING as you go.......my 25/2 had the valve guides in the wrong location on 1 head.

Good luck and keep us informed as you go !

Doc

[mactoollover2005]

32 Coupe

 Since i dont have a lister or listeroid, i have never experienced having the valve guides in the wrong spot but how was it possible?? was it drilled offset to the intended location or did they use wrong guides??

Thank You.

Derek

[dieselgman]

The clone Lister cylinder head typically has two pressed-in guides and they are of slightly different lengths and designs but can be interchanged at will. Single-cylinder and twin-cylinder heads are the same except the twin cylinder engines swap the intake vs exhaust ports between the two heads (left vs right) and it sounds like the assembler just installed two left-hand heads as opposed to using the correct left and right combination.

dieselgman

[32 coupe]

Thanks Gary.....you covered that for me.

 On mine I had 2 right handed heads......or were they left handed ??

Doc