decompression valve or glow plug?

[kevin w]

I am fairly new to lLsters, and have a 6/1 Fieldmarshall. It has a plug in the block where the decompression valve normally goes. I plan on running it as a generator on a variety of fuels and I see advantages to both the glow plug and the decompression valve. I live in Newengland and the winters are cold. If you have any recommendations on which one I should use I would like to hear them and why. Thank you

[Hugh Conway]

Kevin;
For starting in cold conditions, seems like most prefer a glow plug over the original compression change-over valve.
On a previous post, someone had photos of a couple of different change-over valves used in listeroids.........try a search of the site, lots of info, opinions, and experience with them. My JKSON was supplied with the blanking plug.
I wanted to try the comp c/o valve, so bought one......my compression was so low that the engine would not start with the valve in either position.
The change-over valve can also  be used (in high comp mode) if operating under light load for a prolonged period. If you want to try one,  just be sure you have one that is a proper fit for your engine.
I recall the c/o valves gives 15/1 and 19/1 compression ratios whereas the plug is a compromise at about 17/1


OK......
Here's a link to the different kinds  http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=1618.msg70111#msg70111
Cheers,
Hugh

[mike90045]

Colder than frost, I'd look at a glow plug.   The crankcase oil thickening up keeps me from cranking fast enough to start an icy cold diesel.

[dieselgman]

I have operated a lot of Lister plants in Alaska winters. I swear by the silicone heat pads that can be glued beneath the oil pans... guaranteed to get things rolling as long as you have AC mains or another portable genny to start things out. If your portable is small enough to take indoors with you and kept warm, then the "chicken or egg" type conundrum is taken care of.

dieselgman

[kevin w]

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I will go with the glow plug and if needed the heat pad. I found a magnetic one I might try. Now I just have to figure out how I am going to mount a starter to this.

[LowGear]

Wasn't there someone building a kit that would accept a Chevy starter.  It was one of wheel systems that you press against the flywheel with a long handle.

Casey

[BruceM]

+1 for the glow plug.  I'm at 5600 ft elevation in AZ and it works very well at 15F.

I did hand starts for a couple winters- I switched to a 0W-30 pure synthetic oil which helped a lot, and removed my 2 belts to reduce cranking drag.  I put the belts on after it running it for a few minutes.

A rubber roller starter works very well on the big CS flywheels.  I use a Gast 4AM air motor and rubber drive roller from McMaster.com.  I've seen some very nice looking electric -rubber roller versions here, also. 

[Hugh Conway]

Hello Kevin;

the automotive starter/roller can be found here:
 http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=6790.0

Not sure if Tony is still making them. I bought one, made up a mount for it about a year ago. After many starts, it still works great.
In cold weather here, it is very difficult to hand start......the thick oil problem. I am off-grid, don't have the power available for a block heater.
A torch on the intake for a minute or so helps in starting, but does not make hand cranking any easier.

I am sticking with the straight 30 weight non detergent oil as per original spec. Though it gets gluey in colder temps, it (in theory) allows impurities in the oil to settle out a bit rather than keeping them in suspension. As there is no filter in these engines, seems like a good idea. OTOH, seems like a lot of sludge sticks to various bits inside the engine.
Any comments or experience with increased (or not) wear in using detergent oils appreciated. Maybe in a new thread.
Cheers,
Hugh

[BruceM]

Good point on the settling issue, Hugh.    

It was easier for me to decide to go to detergent oils, since there's no chance of dirt settling on my dipper oiling only Metro Listeriod.  It's got a single shallow sloped sump with the dipper running through the bottom center.  I adapted an idea I saw here on this forum from Hotater, and built a gravity fed oil filter box that I added just below the big door on my Metro 6/1.

There is so much oil flow down the big door area slung from the crank and dipper that I can watch the oil sight go down a pint after it starts running, as the oil filter box fills. I use cotton rags for filtration, a couple bar magnets to hold them down and hold metal bits.

[Hugh Conway]

Bruce:
I will have a look for that filter info to learn a bit more about your method. I sure would like to use a multi-grade detergent oil. Recently, been cleaning out the inside of my '51 Lister 6/1 project, and the accumulated gunk was nasty to deal with. Finally put the whole thing (bit by bit) into a big barrel of TSP. That helped a lot and did a good job of removing the paint too. Even so, a real mess.
I am a real fan of DIY low tech solutions, and your Jack Belk inspired filter is interesting.
Thanks!
Cheers,
Hugh
P.S. Lister is almost back together.

[BruceM]

Found a so-so picture of my oil filter/sight tube on the other forum:
http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=85.0

I can email you some more pictures, if needed.  It's just a folded galvanized sheet steel box with the top-inside shaped outward to allow the crank to pass.  (Bigger at the bottom) Depth is just above the desired oil running level. Lots of holes in the bottom.  Pop riveted together and two bolts just below the door hold it in place. It doesn't have to be removed to service the media.

I get no gunk at all running at 100 hrs between oil changes, and have a clean looking interior.  I know the purists don't like detergent oil in the true CS, but for my Metro I'm happy with the cheapest mult-vis diesel rated oil I can get, usually one of the "all fleet" types.  I don't run $ synthetic oil in the winter now that I've got a starter.  

[deeiche]

I bought from Tony about 5-6 months ago.