My CS 6/1 "baby's"

[Pedro_at_Sea]

Hello everybody,
Just like to show you my "baby's" and I hope you like them.

Finally they arrived safely 



 My new "baby", ready to go into my boat, born 1956



And my older lady, born 1938


Here they are sitting together happily


What a mess


Removing a stacked flywheel


This is where the fun begins :-)


Here we go, time for a clean up...


after her shower she looks much better


Cleaned parts came out quite well

After cleaning up, all the parts come out quite nice compared to myself, totally covered in oil :-).

Piston in perfect condition, only the piston rings are stacked, one ring and the oil scrapper ring has coming loose already from itself, will need some special attention …

Also got the stacked oil pump, valve guides, push rod guides and all other frozen parts moving.

Diesel filter snake too worn, cannot be reused, need new coil.

Injector and Fuel Pump will also need special care :-)

Removed also the crank shaft which was a real BIG job.

The outside ends from the crank shaft was quite corroded and it took me 2 hours to get this bugger out.

Bearing surface from crank shaft in excellent condition.

Conrod bearing is over the limit already, has to be renewed.

Will also renew the crank shaft main bearings as everything is open already.

 
One crank shaft bearing and the housing still stacked on the shaft, have to polish the shaft to get it out.

 
I am quite happy from the outcome, not many parts to replace.

I will need some parts, like  an injector, fuel pump, piston rings, crankshaft main bearings, con-rod bearing, valves, valve springs ... not too bad 


That's my boat in which one of my engines will go in


This is an 24' version which I will extend to 33', still working on it

Thanks for watching

[dieselgman]

Nice projects! 

Interesting drive design... please show us how this works once installed and belted up!

dieselgman

[Pedro_at_Sea]

Yeah, I will show the details when everything is set up.
Hopefully everything works out as planed :-)
Will take some time to build this boat, probably end of next year it should float.
Will be very interesting with the CS 6/1 in it.
I am in the final design stage an sourcing materials at the moment.
Great to be her in this forum, lot's of good information's.
Have a great day...

[BruceM]

Great project.  Will the hull be wood or ferrocement?

[contaucreek]

Hi and welcome. Did you find the engines in Malaysia ?

[Pedro_at_Sea]

Hi BruceM,
Hull will be build in Strip Planking (1 1/2") and covered each side with three layers triaxial glass (600 g/m2) and Epoxy.
Wood will be RED MERANTI

Hi contaucreek,
Thanks, YES, found my baby's in Malaysia :-)

[BruceM]

Epoxy glass over Meranti - nice! I long dreamed of cruising Micronesia and the S. Pacific , looking forward to seeing more on your progress!

[contaucreek]

Will you cool with a radiator, exchanger or saltwater  

Oops just read your other thread. My friend collects marine engines and says you can sit and watch a saltwater engine rot away...

I guess you would need to maintain a high temp being a diesel 

[mike90045]

I'd go with freshwater coolant (distilled water and 50% antifreeze corrosion inhibitor) with a radiator.  Fan optional, or use a heat exchanger (stainless) and a under water pumped loop. Just run a length of stainless pipe along the keel in a protected area.

[richardhula]

Will you cool with a radiator, exchanger or saltwater  

Oops just read your other thread. My friend collects marine engines and says you can sit and watch a saltwater engine rot away...

I guess you would need to maintain a high temp being a diesel 

Well my JP2M is nearly 80 years old and spent most of its time having salt water pumped around. To be fair this left little remaining on the wet liners when it was recently overhauled and its now fresh water cooled via skin tank.

Note that Lister's suggested running engine with water outlet in the 120-130°F range for seawater cooled engines, to avoid salt build up at bottom of liners. This despite admitting it was otherwise more beneficial to run engine in the 160-180°F range.

[Pedro_at_Sea]

Thanks everybody for your replies ...

Hi BruceM,
Me too, I like to cruise the Pacific Islands, probably the most beautiful place on earth 
Epoxy and Glass will make the hull almost bulletproof, relatively light and very stiff.

Hi contaucreek
Cooling system is not solved jet.
I like to try to figure out something which does not need pumps or fans.
The simpler the better.
So I will try a big radiator without fan first.
Definitely NO salt water near my engine !!!

Hi mike90045 ,
Definitely freshwater cooling system.
Stainless under water is not a very good idea, corrosion sets in instantly, even with sacrificial zincs added.
Copper Nickel would be a perfect material, but cannot get here.
Pipes outside the hull also very vulnerable, the sea is full of floating debris and junk.
I guess a radiator would be the best choice.


Hi richardhula
thanks for your info's.
I will not torture my engine with salt water, especially the CS 6/1 has no liner which can be changed.
Sink tank is a great idea, but I like to avoid a separate pump which takes power, which is very limited, from my engine.
Also I like to run the engine HOT

[Pedro_at_Sea]

Hi glort,
Yeah, the cleaning up was a real mess, oil all over me and my car port :-)
Yes, with "stacked" I mean seized, sorry for my bad English, it is not my mother tong.

Great your advise about cooling with an radiator, this is exactly what I had in mind, but did not know ho big the radiator should be.

We have no V8's here, how big is a radiator from a V8 ?
I guess a big tractor or lorry radiator will do the job.
Could you please give me approximately dimensions for a V8 radiator, so it is easier for me to source out the right one 

A fan with temperature switch as backup would be fine, but I would not like to waste HP's from my baby engine to drive a fan permanently, 6 HP is not a lot what I have there.

Will mount the radiator at about 45° and put a large duct over the radiator which ends in a long 8" chimney, exhaust will run inside too for better draft, will look and sound like an old steam boats :-)
I guess this will work just fine and looks great too :-)
Have to experiment a bit, but I think this is the way to go, very simple, totally reliable and affordable too.

[BruceM]

Hi Pedro,
I have induced draft - thermosiphon radiator cooling for my 6/1 which is used for AC power and compressed air for my off grid home.  It works great and allows me to run just the air compressor when doing a day of woodworking in my shop with no power/efficiency loss to run a generator head. 

Here's a copy of an old post of mine on the microcogen.info web site.  There are some pictures of the setup there as well:
http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=2556.0

I changed my 6/1 to induced draft, ala the Rumely Oil Pull line of tractors, with their induced-draft cooling systems.  The exhaust is directed into the 8" galvanized duct, and extends up to within about 16 inches of the top of the top pipe.  The cap is a standard vent cap, for rain protection. It reduces the air flow , but it still pulls plenty of air.

This works very well, requiring no AC power, which is nice when I'm just running my air compressor.

From the second photo you can see that only about 6x11 inches of radiator is being used- which works fine for full load at 80F.  This is a thermosiphon cooling system also, so now I'm looking for an appropriately small radiator with large inlet and outlet.  So far, the Geo Metro (12x12) is the smallest I can find with adequate inlet and outlet for thermosiphon.  Any tips for a very small, non-plastic radiator would appreciated.

I previously had no fan at all, just the large radiator, which worked fine except for the rare day here  with dead calm air and a long run time at full load, when I'd start to boil off some coolant.

The Rumely method was something I wanted to try for fun.  If I was starting over with an engine room now, I'd put a small radiator near the ceiling (near horizontal, outlet tilted down a bit), with the exhaust line faired into 8" duct connected to the radiator, and go up through the roof with 8-12"" inch duct.  Then the induced draft system would also pull the hot ceiling air out of the engine room.  (I presently use wind turbines for that now.)



I'd like to clarify that the Rumely induced draft method is does not rely on rising hot air, and that draft produced is quite strong and can be ducted in any manner your choose.

  You need very little radiator for this approach.  I ended up covering most of my radiator so that engine inlet temperature wouldn't be too cool, even here in Arizona with daytime temps near 100F in the summer.  I also added a ball valve to reduce flow rate.  If I was starting over in design, besides reducing the coolant plumbing size to 3/4" and radiator to a motorcycle size or auto heater core, (or the smallest cheap and available radiator) I would also use the induced air draft to pull outside air through my engine shed.  Induced draft was an afterthought on my system.  

With induced draft, you can get much more air flow at reduced velocity  by increasing the duct size.  You could likewise reduce the stack diameter to increase air velocity and reduce total air flow, if smaller duct is advantageous to your design. 

I'm sure looking forward to reading more about your marvelous project, Pedro!

Best Wishes,
Bruce
 

[Pedro_at_Sea]

Hi Bruce,

thank you very much for your info's, that was exactly what I am waiting for.

Your system sounds perfect to be used on my boat 
Get read of heat an the exhaust fumes too...
Cannot find the pictures in your link: http://www.microcogen.info/index.php?topic=2556.0

Could you please send me them via e-mail, I would really appreciate that.

Found pictures here: http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=6197.msg71534#msg71534
But radiator looks quite big to me and is set up vertical.

Did I got it right: It looks to me that you start out with a 6" duct from the radiator and then widen it to 8" at the top (conical pipe, wider on the top) ?
Maybe using a rotating extraction rain cup (like the two green ones on your roof top) on top would help too ?

You have a gorgeous powerhouse there, a real mater piece 

Thanks for all your input and have a great day
Pedro

[Pedro_at_Sea]

Hi Bruce,
finally got it 

The draft is produced from the exhaust gases and not from hot air...

Have seen here http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff48/BruceMcC/InducedDraft2.jpg that you covered almost the whole radiator with foil, just left a small area open for cooling.

Incredible system, absolutely perfect, you should get a "NOBEL Price"  for this set up 

I will try that with a 6" stainless steel pipe, a small radiator and maybe a rotating extractor fan (like the one on your roof).

Thank you very much for solving my cooling problem..
Have a great day
Pedro