New to me generator- need help

[Fairmountvewe]

Hi all.  Well providence smiled upon me today and I came up with this.....





Now the info on the plate says
"Engine # 1191LD16
Plant # 44475NA
Dynamo # 12622/1
1.5 KVA"

So what did I bring home?  All I know is that it runs, it will power a 1500 w ceramic heater at 59.8 Hz.  The generator doghouse looks like a bad dream gone horribly wrong, so I guess I am looking for any and all info (wiring diagrams etc) pertaining to my newest "Honey it followed me home...."ism.

Thanks

Peter

[veggie]

Fairmountvewe,

It's a Lister LD1
Nice engines.

Veggie

[dpollo]

Congratulations, I wish it had followed me home.
I briefly had an engine like that but the alternator had gone missing.  Too bad.
I was told that it was rated at 3 kilowatts  120/240 60cycle but I do not remember if it was 1200
or 1800 RPM.   1.5 kva is a realistic continuous rating but it will  likely put out more.   

 My ST2  is 1800 rpm and has a 5 kw rating .

[Bottleveg]

Judging from the battery leads it’s a Start-O-Matic.
I haven’t seen one with a top box (dog house) that big so maybe home made.
The genny looks like a BKB (Birmingham UK).
More photos needed of inside the top box and the end of the genny, with the cover removed.
  Mark.

[Fairmountvewe]

Well I appreciate the comments.  I don't know about a start-o-matic, but I do know that the generator acts as the starter motor.  The battery leads go to a switch mounted on the motor end of the dog house.  I will get some pictures of the inside of the doghouse tomorrow.  I am  happy so far, but I have not done any serious playing with it yet.

[millman56]

The LD1 SOM versions usually have a seperate fuel tank and in the place where the fuel tank is fitted to the one in the photos, they have the solenoids and linkages to operate the fuel shut off and valve lifter.    It looks as though it is a pushbutton start, manual stop version.


Mark.

[Bottleveg]

The LD1 SOM versions usually have a seperate fuel tank and in the place where the fuel tank is fitted to the one in the photos, they have the solenoids and linkages to operate the fuel shut off and valve lifter.    It looks as though it is a pushbutton start, manual stop version.


Mark.

Hi Mark.
Yes your right. My infatuation with SOM’s clouds my vision sometimes.
   Mark.

[Fairmountvewe]

pictures!!!!!





And finally.... the new muffler!  looks way better



Now bear in mind that I have virtually no idea what or where the wires go or do, but I kinda figure a couple of them run the DC motor side of the generator, and the rest are the AC stuff.  Thats all I can come up with! And to think I work for an electrical generation utility! Ha!

[millman56]

Hi Mark.

Infatuation?  SOMs?   Madness!!! .   Now heating the portacabin with CS coolant a`la "Bottleveg" CHP system, it`s toasty.

Mark.

Hi Mark.
Yes your right. My infatuation with SOM’s clouds my vision sometimes.
   Mark.
[/quote]

[LowGear]

I don't understand the code.  Those variable resisters suggest SOM to me.

So is it or isn't it?

Casey

[millman56]

Its not code Casey, just sarcasm. and an update of my CS setup.     No its not an SOM, as far as I know the rheostats are part of the voltage regulation system and common to  alternator/dynamo combinations with that particular excitation and battery charging system whether SOM or push button start.   SOM refers to the actual method of starting the sets.   
Happy and prosperous new year.
Mark. 

[Bottleveg]

It’s as Mark says, push button start.
Looking at the top in photo no.1 you have battery neutral wire to the left and going down to a brush on the COM. Positive battery wire to the right, going to the push button solenoid and then down to another brush on the COM. So that takes care of the starting.
The item on the left, that looks like three sheets of metal with a bolt through, is a rectifier. Then you have two meters, one for battery charging amps and the other for AC amps or volts? Between the two meters is your AC out?
The two wire-wound tubes in photo no. 2 are resistors. The top one is (normally) for setting battery charge rate and the two ‘bands’ are to set hi/low charge. The bottom resistor is (normally) for setting the no-load voltage for the shunt field winding.
The wiring on your resisters appears to be back-to-front.
I’m not sure what the two boxes are at the bottom. Is one an AC switch or fuse?
Do I see six or seven wires passing through the top box to the genny?
The two thicker ones are for starting (as mentioned above). Then you should have two from the slip rings that go up to the AC out.
The remaining two are from the shunt field winding. Normally this circuit would be from a + brush on the COM, up to the shunt field resistor (adjustable side), out from the other end of the resister, through the shunt field winding and finish at a - brush on the COM.
There would normally only be two wires going to the shunt field resister and then a link to the charge resister. Another wire was added from the early 60’s. This was bonded to the starter winding and ran to the charge resister, doing away with the link and giving ‘seven’ wires through the top box.
Any photos of inside the genny?
    Mark.

[Bottleveg]

This is the size and style of box that would have been fitted.
The top is raised from the body to allow for air-flow.
The push start button can be seen to the right and the toggle switch to the left is to select hi/low battery charging.






Only the battery charge resister can be seen in this photo. The shunt field rectifier was housed within the genny from the early 70’s.

[Bottleveg]

Hi Mark.

Infatuation?  SOMs?   Madness!!! .   Now heating the portacabin with CS coolant a`la "Bottleveg" CHP system, it`s toasty.

Mark.

Hi Mark.
Yes your right. My infatuation with SOM’s clouds my vision sometimes.
   Mark.

[/quote]

Glad your keeping warm Mark. What have you got? Coolant water through a rad in the portacabin and then back?
  Mark.

[contaucreek]

My SR is very similar Peter if you want to come up and look over the electrics. I will PM you my #

PS-how the heck did I let that one get by me