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Author Topic: Listeroid Base / Frame  (Read 42324 times)

DirtMerchant

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Listeroid Base / Frame
« on: May 23, 2013, 09:05:48 AM »
 I could not really find a detailed drawing for creating a base frame for a Listeroid, so I drew and built my own,  this is designed to mount a 6/1 with room for an ST and a 12v alternator mounting, the plan is to put it on a 3/4 inch thick rubber stall mat (from Tractor Supply) and if the mat does not dampen things enough I will fill the frame with concrete to give it some mass. Frame is basically all 1/2 inch steel  W-I Beam and 1/2 inch 6x6 steel angle and weighs roughly 250-300lbs.

Next I will build an isolated frame over top of this one (self supporting and not attached to this frame to isolate any vibrations) to carry the radiator, fuel tank, exhaust system  and electrical components.


 

Just thought I would post this so others who might be build or drawing challenged as I am would have something to work from.





« Last Edit: May 23, 2013, 09:28:04 AM by DirtMMerchant »

ronmar

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2013, 08:18:03 PM »
That looks great.  I am a fan of mass, i would put a bottom and ends on it and fill it with concrete up to the point where you can just reach the mount bolts, then set it on a rubber mat...
PS 6/1 - ST-5.

veggie

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2013, 09:28:10 PM »
That looks great.  I am a fan of mass, i would put a bottom and ends on it and fill it with concrete up to the point where you can just reach the mount bolts, then set it on a rubber mat...

Although filling it with concrete may eliminate your ability to move it around the shop depending on what equipment you have, I too am a fan of adding mass to settle these engines. With 1500 to 2000 lb's of steel and concrete under the generator, she should run as smooth as butter  ;)

PS: Nice job on the 3D imaging.

cheers,
veggie
« Last Edit: May 24, 2013, 01:50:01 AM by veggie »
- 6/1 GM90 Listeroid - Delco 33si Alternator
- Changfa R175 - Lease/Neville Alternator
- JiangDong R165 Air cooled - 2 kw
- Changfa S195 (Waiting for a project)

DirtMerchant

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2013, 09:44:57 PM »
That looks great.  I am a fan of mass, i would put a bottom and ends on it and fill it with concrete up to the point where you can just reach the mount bolts, then set it on a rubber mat...

Although filling it with concrete may eliminate your ability to move it around the shop depending on what equipment you have, I too am a fan of adding mass to settle these engines. With 1500 to 2000 lb's of steel and concrete under the generator, she should run a smooth as butter  ;)

PS: Nice job on the 3D imaging.

cheers,
veggie


I have a tractor with a loader and forklift attachment,  I can pretty much lift and move anything I need to, probably will end up with concrete filling, but figured I would try it without the concrete and see what I get, this engine has the heavy flywheels and a counterbalanced crank, it might be fairly smooth without the mass...wishful thinking .....


ronmar

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #4 on: May 24, 2013, 03:32:54 AM »
They also move pretty easy egyptian style, with pipe rollers.  All up weight of my 6/1 genset is around 2300#.  On 2-3" pipe rollers I can push it across the floor with one hand...
PS 6/1 - ST-5.

Stan

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #5 on: May 24, 2013, 04:13:26 AM »
I just moved my Dursley 6/1 with heavy flywheels and small generator,  using 3/4" pipe for rollers, a small trailer, 2x4s for "railroad track style runway" and a small come-along.  Took about an hour to get up on the trailer, 12 hrs on the highway,  and 3/4 hr off and along a 50' flat broken concrete driveway into the garage.

Went without a hitch except the one time when I hit a large bump and my wife (who was following me) radioed that my engine had just jumped about a foot in the air  :-[

And yes, I had it tied down 16 ways from Sunday to prevent it from tipping,  going forward, back, or to either side, I just didn't think it would jump straight up!

Stan

xyzer

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2013, 03:54:31 PM »
And yes, I had it tied down 16 ways from Sunday to prevent it from tipping,  going forward, back, or to either side, I just didn't think it would jump straight up!

Stan

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DirtMerchant

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #7 on: May 26, 2013, 11:04:03 AM »

There is a boo boo in my frame design!

The bolt holes for the Grainger motor frame to hold the ST Head are too tight to the vertical web of the I beams, it will still work, however you are very limited for pulley alignment across the frame, it would be better to put in a cross frame under the motor frame, or drill new mounting holes in the cross frame a little more inboard toward the center of the frame to give you the side to side alignment. I am thinking I will mill slots in my Grainger Mount so I can easily align it and get more room so the vertical web doesn't interfere with the bolt heads.


Jetpilot

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #8 on: May 26, 2013, 03:13:40 PM »
Do you have the part number for the Grainger mount??

Also, is there enough room there to change the oil?

Derek

ronmar

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #9 on: May 26, 2013, 07:42:06 PM »
Yea, I put my engine the other way round so the wet bits were not over the electrical bits:)  IT also makes crankcase access a more comfortable affair as I can set on a stool and reach into the main engine crankcase door with nothing in the way...  Actually as yours is pictured there, your starting side flywheel is against the wall.  Unless it is electric start, you may have problems even cranking this thing to life as it sets...

That is the good thing about using the serpentine belt around the outside of the engine flywheel.  Way forgiving on alignment as you have a lot of room on the flywheel face to play with, you just need to make sure the gen pulley is parallel with the flywheel...
PS 6/1 - ST-5.

mike90045

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #10 on: May 26, 2013, 08:40:29 PM »
....  Actually as yours is pictured there, your starting side flywheel is against the wall.  Unless it is electric start, you may have problems even cranking this thing to life as it sets....

Can't the ratchet in the handle be flipped over to engage in the other direction?   Doesn't solve the fuel rack though.

carlb23

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #11 on: May 26, 2013, 10:38:23 PM »
if you flip the ratchet over then you would have to start it left handed

LowGear

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #12 on: May 26, 2013, 11:37:41 PM »
Are the motor mounting bolts symmetrical?

So that rubber matting won't compress into something like heavy tar paper with a ton of steel jumping or trying to jump around on it for a few hundred - thousand hours?  I've read your threads about using it but the real impact of what's going on didn't hit me until I saw this photo.

Casey
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DirtMerchant

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #13 on: May 27, 2013, 09:39:48 AM »
 The mounting base is a Dayton Motor Mounting Base Model: 2M513
I purchased it here:
http://www.drillspot.com/products/60744/Dayton_2M513_Adjustable_Steel_Motor_Mounting_Base

Funny thing is they sent it on a Central Transport Truck, 70ft truck to deliver a 20lb mount....

I am using electric start, in fact I am setting it up for auto start and remote start, so the side that the rack and starter are on really don't matter.

I was not worried about oil changes as I was going to pipe the drain out to easily do oil changes but a good point was made about fluids over electric, I have not bolted anything down so I can still flip things around.

The rubber mat is 3/4 inch thick and very heavy,  the frame surface area being applied to the mat is pretty big, so the pressure per square inch is fairly low. Chances are I will be filling the base with concrete to reduce the vibration as well which should increase the life of the mat.

« Last Edit: May 27, 2013, 09:44:56 AM by DirtMMerchant »

DirtMerchant

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Re: Listeroid Base / Frame
« Reply #14 on: June 02, 2013, 07:28:27 AM »

 Well sadly my frame is not stopping my new Powerline 6/1 from hopping all over the place. I am going to have to fill the base with concrete.



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