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Author Topic: Engine tear down and setup  (Read 19643 times)

TPXX

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Engine tear down and setup
« on: November 02, 2012, 04:45:12 PM »
OK, I've had my engine for several years and it has moved with me several times since I got it. But I am now going to set it up and use it as backup power here in Houston. I built my frame last weekend and will be posting some pictures of things as I progress. I'm an ok shade tree mechanic, but not an expert and not a machinist. With that in mind I welcome any and all advice as I begin this journey. Nothing going to happen this weekend as I have a motorcycle rally to attend! To many hobbies!

Tom

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #1 on: November 02, 2012, 05:13:41 PM »
It will be interesting to see. Your abilities are in line with many of us here. If you're running a flat belt remember that keeping the shafts on the engine and generator is critical.
Tom
2004 Ashwamegh 6/1 #217 - ST5 just over 3k hours.

fabricator

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #2 on: November 02, 2012, 11:33:56 PM »
Have you gone through the tear down clean and reassemble yet?
BioDiesel Brewer

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #3 on: November 03, 2012, 01:00:31 AM »
Its good form to take pictures as you disassemble and measure clearances.I often make diagrams especially of linkages. Frank C.
Fast cheap and easy are seductive sirens,its a rare man that does not court their pleasures.

TPXX

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #4 on: November 03, 2012, 02:04:20 AM »
Have you gone through the tear down clean and reassemble yet?

I have not done the year down yet. I'll post some pics as I go about it. I have the utter power CD from 2006 I believe and it has lol's of good info. I'd like to strip all the paint and hot tank everything. Is that over kill? Any Houston people on here that could recommend some where to have it hot tanked?

fabricator

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2012, 01:27:03 PM »
no it's not over kill, it's a necessity IMHO, Any engine rebuilder will have a hot tank, you can do it yourself if you are in a rural area.
BioDiesel Brewer

TPXX

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #6 on: November 04, 2012, 11:25:33 PM »
Some preliminary pictures




















Jetpilot

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #7 on: November 05, 2012, 03:56:19 AM »
Thunderbolt transmission in Houston.  http://tbolt.net
Derek

TPXX

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #8 on: November 06, 2012, 02:19:49 PM »
Contacted Thunderbolt and they tell me they are not set up to handle an engine this size. Calling some other places to see what can be done. If needed I'll rent a pressure washer with heat and blast the heck out of the heads water passages and block. What is the best way to remove the existing paint? I've read oven cleaner strips it pretty well, anyone ever tried this?

dieselgman

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #9 on: November 06, 2012, 02:26:16 PM »
Any sodium hydroxide (lye) based cleaner with added heat should do the trick on your iron castings. There are a number of folks in rural areas that have reported dunking their stuff in a barrel over a campfire.

There are also alternatives... I think that bead blasting is one in common usage now.

dieselgman
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BruceM

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #10 on: November 06, 2012, 02:31:21 PM »
I think Quinn soaked his crankcase in a lye-water solution with a good result.  I don't recall his adding heat.

dieselgman

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #11 on: November 06, 2012, 03:22:35 PM »
The heat makes a very large difference in the effectiveness of the chemical action, especially for paint removal and thorough pentration into the pores of the casting. In our spray tank, the stuff really comes to life at about 180 degrees F. Any less than 120 F and it just foams up - does not remove paint very well.

dieselgman
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TPXX

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #12 on: November 06, 2012, 06:36:16 PM »
Would the lye hurt the cylinders?

dieselgman

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #13 on: November 06, 2012, 07:00:02 PM »
Lye will not interact with cast iron... just avoid putting in any aluminum pieces as they will quickly oxidize and turn black.

dieslegman
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Quinnf

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Re: Engine tear down and setup
« Reply #14 on: November 06, 2012, 07:23:28 PM »
Here you go.  Poor Man's Hot-Tank:  I used about 2 lbs of "crystal drain cleaner" from Home Depot in a plastic trashcan full of hot water.  The lye in the cleaner made the water even hotter.  I dropped a plastic submersible fountain pump in the bottom of the trash can to keep the water moving.  Pump survived just fine.  You don't have to keep the water hot, but it helps to more quidkly dissolve the drain cleaner.  One thing you want to avoid is just dumping the stuff in the water all at once.  As lye dissolves in water, it releases a lot of heat, enough to melt through the plastic trash can if you're not careful.  So stirring is a must, and it's a good idea to slowly add the stuff to the water so it disperses quickly.  I already had the 6/1 block in the can, and brought the water level up just high enough to fully cover the can.

Just make sure no aluminum or brass/copper parts are still in the engine, and it's best to degrease the engine as much as possible before stripping.  

Start:



After 24 hours:




Flywheels.  I just clamped some boards together to make a box and lined it with two layers of trash can bags.  After 24 hours lying on the cold concrete slab the solution was still warm, so it was generating its own heat.
Double, double toil and trouble; Fire burn, and caldron bubble. 
Fillet of a fenny snake, In the caldron boil and bake;
Eye of newt, and toe of frog, Wool of bat, and tongue of dog,
Adder's fork, and blind-worm's sting, Lizard's leg, and owlet's wing,
— For a charm of powerful trouble, Like a hell-broth boil and bubble.
 
 -- MacBeth, Shakespeare, for your edification.



And after 24 hours, you can see what became of the green paint:




Block came out pretty clean clean after 24 hours soaking.  A few areas didn't get fully stripped.  48 hours would have gotten those, but I wanted to get going with the rest of the project, so I cleaned it up with a flap sander disk in a $9.95 Harbor Fright 4 1/2" angle grinder.  The white residue that you can see inside the crankcase was filler dislodged from the surface of the metal by the action of the stripper.  It seemed to be something like drywall compound or plaster.  It washed off with a stream of water from the garden hose.  Inside of the engine was spotlessly clean.  No evidence of grit under the paint.  






Enjoy!  

Quinn


« Last Edit: November 06, 2012, 07:58:18 PM by Quinnf »
Ashwamegh 6/1, PowerSolutions 6/1 "Kit" engine, and a Changfa R175a that looks like a Yanmar I once knew