Author Topic: KOEL 8/1 Project (Read 57782 times)

BruceM · « **Reply #90 on:** August 25, 2012, 04:04:31 PM »

A quick search on crimp vs solder will show that there is concern/controversy about solder joints in vibration environments. The majority position is now to use crimp. Soldering stranded wire causes hardening of the copper strands (which must be quenched quickly to soften the copper, the opposite of steel), and this plus the lead free solder is reported to be less reliable than proper crimp connections.

I'm old school and still often solder and heat shrink, perhaps more than I should. I don't trust crimps in corrosion environments, but have started using conductive grease for crimp required situations to help with that issue.

It's was hard for me to believe that crimps were more reliable in some situations but it is apparently widely supported.

dieselgman · « **Reply #91 on:** August 25, 2012, 06:03:30 PM »

Interesting input... I am sure that a high-quality crimp with dielectric grease would be fine. But I would certainly put emphasis on the "high-quality" aspect and rule out many of the common automotive type tools and hardware that is commonly used in DC automotive wiring. We use a lot of hydraulically crimped connectors for our larger power transmission connections up to and including high-voltage transmission wire lines. These all contain a dielectric grease, once they are connected properly the connected wires are practically fused together mechanically from the pressure applied to the coupler. These connections have been proven to be at least as strong as the continuous wire would be.

Definitely +1 on the shrink-wrap. It is appalling how many fine generator heads we have replaced due to wire abrasion that resulted in eventual overheating in the windings due to short circuits.

dieselgman

Thob · « **Reply #92 on:** August 25, 2012, 06:11:50 PM »

I haven't had much luck with crimp connectors either. I even went and bought an expensive crimp tool and good quality crimp connectors, they still don't hold up very well. I've gone back to soldering everything. I still have tin-lead solder for electrical work, I only use the lead-free stuff on the plumbing. I've never had a wire break next to a solder joint, but I'm not in a marine or aircraft environment either. On the other hand, those Chinese wires in my ST head were a challenge to solder - the copper is covered with some kind of gunk that is very hard to clean off.

fabricator · « **Reply #93 on:** August 26, 2012, 12:54:19 AM »

Better yet there looks to be plenty of slack in that wire, just cut the whole mess out and put a new female spade connector on it.

BruceM · « **Reply #94 on:** August 26, 2012, 03:06:22 AM »

I've been trying out this grease for electrical connections for the last few years:

http://www.sanchem.com/aSpecialE.html

It has solved the problem on former problem connectors (vibration, corrosion) on my MB 300D. I've also used it on a variety of connectors and variac "commutator" surface with good results. It seems to be good goop. YMMV

OKFarmer · « **Reply #95 on:** August 27, 2012, 02:14:13 PM »

In the aircraft world crimp has overtaken solder philosophy. However THAT is NOT one of the $4 aircraft wire crimps. It's a $.05 one for automotive DC as Dieselgman pointed out. I will use a good crimp on it and heat-shrink. I heat shrink everything. I did the quick crimp to test and see if my voltage leveled off. I was having trouble with blinking on my multimeter. Turns out a couple wires were bare and after cleaning it all up that fixed it. I know I have to take a loop of wire from one of those wires on the rectifier to my AVR in the remote doghouse. When I figure out which one I'll fix the crimp.

On an 8/1 with a ST5 head, if I back down to 775 on engine rpm, and pulley up correctly for 1860 at genny what will my output be? Anyone have a guess? That engine is just sweet at 775, and vibrates at 850. I still need to load it before I make that decision. I'm hoping I get wrapped up enough to move it to it's permanent home this week, and get her anchored to the floor and do some load tests.

Next question for engine #2 is: Changfa? or Lister? I need 12-15kW. Would prefer 17kW!

OKFarmer

Combustor · « **Reply #96 on:** August 27, 2012, 02:41:19 PM »

Hello OKfarmer,
With your 8/1, horsepower will be pretty much proportional to rpm in its normal operating range, so if you are cutting revs by less than 10%, the output will reduce by a similar amount. Depending on alternator and drive losses ,I assume you could still pull 4kw continuous. If you can maintain frequency and the exhaust smoke is only slight, you should be fine.
Regards, Combustor.

dieselgman · « **Reply #97 on:** August 27, 2012, 06:23:17 PM »

For 15 to 17kW, you will need a prime mover - something around 30hp. That can be had in a twin Lister, but maybe better off using something more modern. If you like the low speed, how about an oilfield engine? Do you have natural gas or ready supplies of propane? Arrow makes some amazing stuff. 600 rpm 30hp is typical in their C-96 genset flavor. Budget is the kicker with that stuff but it is well documented for round-the-clock usage in the range of 65,000 hours - no extra maintenance. Still quite a bit less $$ than Willem's stuff and also is EPA certified.

dieselgman

OKFarmer · « **Reply #98 on:** August 27, 2012, 07:41:34 PM »

Yeah Willem's stuff is off the chart high.

Is there availability of 30hp from you Gary?

I've not even thought of the Arrow route. I have gas ells, but no gas tap at the house. Couldn't get that negotiated. I have some sources on the Arrow route though. Hmmm...

I have several friends at various levels in the gas/oil industry. My distribution buddy says don't count on natural gas/propane when the crap hits the fan. Their disaster plans are to cut all the small towns/rural taps, shut in as many wells as possible, and just keep the metro areas up and loaded up with natural gas. So for me, diesel is still the answer.

OKFarmer · « **Reply #99 on:** August 27, 2012, 07:42:37 PM »

One other thought: Gary, don't you have a ton of oilfield/lister types? Anything in that range? Hook me up my man!

dieselgman · « **Reply #100 on:** August 27, 2012, 08:53:11 PM »

If cost is no object, much of the oilfield stuff is vastly superior to anything else on the market in terms of quality and serviceability. Arrow is an excellent choice, and headquartered in Tulsa!

Propane can be stored indefinitely (presumably) without degradation of the fuel... plenty of container options - everywhere. You could also go the direction of wood-gas with the same engine types if you had biomass and some basic technology to burn/gasify it.

We have a lot (hundreds) of HRG Lister industrial engines in 2 and 3 cylinder versions... these can also be converted to diesel (or other liquid fuels) if required.

dieselgman

deeiche · « **Reply #101 on:** August 27, 2012, 09:55:17 PM »

Quote from: OKFarmer on August 27, 2012, 07:41:34 PM

SNIP

I have several friends at various levels in the gas/oil industry. My distribution buddy says don't count on natural gas/propane when the crap hits the fan. Their disaster plans are to cut all the small towns/rural taps, shut in as many wells as possible, and just keep the metro areas up and loaded up with natural gas. So for me, diesel is still the answer.

This is exactly what happened last year when a deep freeze hit New Mexico. Small northern NM communities hit -35F and had their gas supplies shutoff to keep the pressure up in the metro areas.

dieselgman · « **Reply #102 on:** August 27, 2012, 11:36:29 PM »

Just another reason to be in charge of your own fuel supply... this does not rule out natural gas engines though. In most places, LP Gas is fairly close to same price as other petroleum fuels. The nice thing about it is, a large volume will compress into a fairly compact tank. We run our forklifts on this fuel and it costs somewhat less than either gasoline or diesel.

dieselgman

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #103 on:** August 28, 2012, 01:20:24 AM »

Propane,will remain good almost forever but if it sits a long time it will stratify and not burn for squat.Good form to shake or outherwise agitate tanks if they have sat a long time.Usally big tanks are agitated when filled or topped off.Its rather rare but if your having trouble try shaking the tank.Frank C.

BruceM · « **Reply #104 on:** August 28, 2012, 02:24:52 AM »

OKFarmer- No need to live with less than 850 rpm if you don't want to. It's easy to tweak the balance to have have smooth running at whatever your desired rpm is. Get some clay, some stick on lead weights and in an hour you're there.
Best Wishes,
Bruce

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