Temp. control

[Gippslander]

Hi

The over temperature shut off could be controlled with one of these, with a solenoid pushing onto the fuel cut off lever

This is a cheaper method compared to the murphy gauge and switch

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400560604489?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true

[ronmar]

OR with one of these cheaper still:)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-DC-12V-Cool-Heat-temp-Thermostat-Temperature-Control-Switch-50-110-C-ZD/291261622350?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140106155344%26meid%3D6fd68038ab6245b2ab35002f0869955a%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D20140106155344%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D400560604489&rt=nc

[mike90045]

Sooo, what's the thought about too small of a themosiphon tank, and the engine (listeroid 6/1) ends up boiling the coolant in the upper outlet.   Is that too hot, or as long as 190F coolant comes into the inlet, is that OK ?   I never got the radiator and fan hooked up over the summer, and now, we've got a fair amount of cloud cover & rain, my 5Kw of PV is only putting out about 93 watts today !  I'd run it longer, but wanted to know what the risks are, running it HOT.   My exhaust fitting nipple runs about 340F  (EGT) when it's loaded down with 2600w on the alternator (ST5)  Voltage & freq are really good, I run 240V to the XW6048 inverter, which sync's and uses the AC to charge the batteries (fancy bi-directional inverter.)  running 50-50 coolant @ 1400' elevation, no pressure cap.

[Tom]

Hey, we finally got some 'roid weather! Mine ran for 8 hours yesterday. The back bedroom was still 72f this morning!

340f seems almost unbelievably hot. You'd be getting a geyser of steam at that point. Oh reread your post and the exhaust fitting is 340f which is actually pretty cool. 190f for the return water will work. At some point you'll boil that little tank, but that's right at the point where the temp is just right. Just make sure to keep fill the tank after each run. Is there still a valve in the lower hose? If so full open is where it should be under these conditions. To bad you don't have a use for all that hot water, perhaps a hot tub out by the shop is in order.

[Blue]

I used to run a single cylinder, horizontal stroke Deutz MAH 190 which used to have water surrounding the cylinder and worked by thermo siphon in this large cast reservoir that came up about two feet above the cylinder to the top. Inside were no baffles or anything and it ran perfectly for years. It was connected to a cargo winch on a ship and when it was working hard it would use a 2 gallon bucket full about every six hours. It steamed away (as the reservoir was open) but never gave any indication of overheating. I have no idea what the temperature was in there and it was HOT if you foolishly put a finger in it 

[mike90045]

.... Is there still a valve in the lower hose? If so full open is where it should be under these conditions.....

Ah, I'll adjust that in a few minutes.  yes, what a lot of warm water to be wasting.

[Tom]

Something free like this

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/zip/4766532414.html
parked outside might be just the ticket. Let me know when it hits 104 and is snowing and I'll come join you. 

[ronmar]

When a thermosiphon system breaks down it reverts to hopper cooling.  Engines have been cooled this way for a long time:)  Boiling/evaporating water transfers a tremendous ammount of heat energy.  In an open topped tank, Evaporation is the major path in which heat leaves the water in the tank. The ammount of heat shed thru evap grows to many times that of the energy transfered thru the skin of the tank as the water temp approaches the boiling point. 

In a too-small thermosiphon systen that cannot dissipate the heat, if it is full enough to flow, the bubbles enhance the flow and get that heat to the top of the tank to evap faster.  Because of the ammount of energy transfer at those temps, I doubt your head temps are much over 200F  As long as you make up for the lost water you should be fine.  The roids run real efficient and clean at those temps:) 

If you have a water source, you could also dump hot water to be made up with cold fresh water to maintain a non boiling thermosiphon. That is a backup plan for my secondary cooling loop.  I simply open a hot water tap and shed a little hot water.  You could add a float valve to the tank to maintain a constant water level, and a small bleeder valve tapped into the tank near the top.  Open the bleeder and shed a little water to be made up by the float valve.  A thermal switch and a solenoid valve could control the dump automatically...     

[M61hops]

Hey Mike, if your cooling tank has a threaded bung in the top you could connect it to the bottom of a radiator and the steam could condense in the radiator and drip back into the boiling tank.  Maybe have a drip hose, or better yet a long 3/4" copper pipe on the top fitting of the car radiator to make sure and capture all the steam before it vents to the outside of the space where the generator sits.  The radiator and copper pipe would add a lot of heat to the room.  Just thinking...                     Leland

[zenison]

This is my lister temperature controller 8/1 .
Also some photos of the generating station .
Greetings .

[zenison]

[zenison]