lister sr3

[occles]

Hi, does anybody know wheather it would be possible to fit a 12v starter motor to an sr3 to repace using the 24v dc on the brush gen head there is a blanking plate wher i assume the starter should go but not sure about ring gear many thanks

[listard-jp2]

As your SR3 engine already has electric starting via a winding on the generator, it is very unlikely that there is a starter ring on the flywheel, but to confirm just remove the blanking plate.
The good news is that providing you can get a starter ring, the SR3 engine flywheel is very likely to already be machined to accept a Lister supplied starter ring, if your using a Lucas / CAV starter motor then you also need a spacer to go between the bell housing and the starter motor. In reality this will be an expensive route for you to take.

A better and cheaper alternative will be to buy an electric start Lister engine that has compatible parts, swap over the electric start components, and resell the donor engine as a handle start engine.

The type of donor engine your needing could be any of the following: LR, SL, ST, and of course SR. The only caveat will be to ensure that the donor engine is the same  direction of rotation, this will mean keeping clear of Lister engines that originated from dumper truck applications as these will all be the opposite rotation to what you require, these engines will be easy to identify as they have a different style of flywheel fanshroud .

[dieselgman]

Good advice... just remember to transfer your timing markings accurately if you should change that flywheel.

To my knowledge an ST flywheel will NOT fit your SR at all. The crankshaft taper is of a different size. In addition, some of the older flywheels will also NOT work on your 3-cylinder SR... the weight and dimensions must be the same. There are a lot of variations out there.

dieselgman

[listard-jp2]

To my knowledge an ST flywheel will NOT fit your SR at all. The crankshaft taper is of a different size. In addition, some fo the older flywheels will also NOT work on your 3-cylinder SR... the weight and dimensions must be the same. There are a lot of variations out there.

You raise a fair point, and are correct in what you say. But thinking about this in more detail, the OP only needs the ring gear from the correct rotation engine, so with care it should be possible to remove a ring gear from any of the above engines and transfer just the ring gear.

just remember to transfer your timing markings accurately if you should change that flywheel.

Again fair point, but this would also be taken care of by the above solution.

[dieselgman]

Please explain a reliable method of removing a ring gear from one of those without damaging the gear... to remove and install (old for new) is not at issue, removing an old one without damage IS. We use heat to expand the gear but getting proper hold on an old one is nearly impossible without welder and chisel in my experience.

dieselgman

[listard-jp2]

^ It would be my pleasure to elaborate on this process for you, and one which I have personally used on two occasions to date (once on a Perkins 4-236 engine, and latterly on a Perkins 3-152 engine)

First of all a little back ground information on the Perkins 4-236 job:

The situation arose when the operator continued to use his 'Dodge KC walk through van' spite of a badly slipping clutch, causing cracks to appear in the flywheel face where the friction plate came into contact with it. The cracks were deep enough to make the flywheel scrap, however it  had good starter ring on it.

A second hand flywheel was obtained, but the starter ring on the replacement flywheel was borderline, so with nothing to lose and a two week wait for a replacement starter ring (due to it being over a Christmas holiday period), we had nothing to lose from taking the following approach.

I proceeded to drift off the good ring gear from the flywheel, using a large ball pein hammer and a sizable piece of Aluminum plate [which was machined  with a relief in it so it would better locate in the recess between the ring gear and flywheel], and by repeating this process many times  as I moved around the flywheel periphery (like you do when removing a tyre from a rim i.e. a little and often) to my surprise it eventually came off. The Aluminium drift was well butchered by the end of this process but the flywheel ring gear was to my surprise damage free.

I would caveat this approach with the following:

This removal process took the best part of several hours,  it was also necessary to clean up the business end of the drift with an angle grinder on numerous occasions, and by the time I had got the ring gear off, the Aluminium drift was also little more than scrap.

Like you, I was very skeptical about this approach working, but if you are in a tight spot then what have you got to lose. Although not having tried this approach on a Lister starter ring gear, I cannot see why it would not work on any situation where there is a sufficiently large enough recess between the ring gear and the flywheel.

[millman56]

Having removed a ring gear from a HR4 crop dryer flywheel with the more brutal method of using 2" X 3/8" mild steel flat stock as drifts but with a helper delivering simultaneous blows diametrically oposite to mine, the ring gear was removed very quickly and with the ring gear being somewhat harder than the drifts no damage was apparent. Clouting in one place causes the ring gear to sprag after very little movement also the flywheel register may have metal shaved off.

Mark.

[dieselgman]

Thanks guys... I do not know the amount of specific interference involved with a Lister flywheel but it should be very similar to a Perkins or any other flywheel ring gear. Those things are large and heavy enough to be a problem in handling on a typical shop press.

dieselgman