Ynamar L100

[newlister]

Hi chaps. want to split an engine and alternator. L100, and a Sinno 2102216 I think it is. looks like there is a small long bolt right thru the middle of the shaft, that i can turn by hand, now the nut is off. Can anyone tell me how to do it with out breaking things. thanks Newlister.

[dieselgman]

You might need to try microcogen or other Yanmar forum for advice on a Yanmar. At the minimum, show us a picture of what you need to dismantle, maybe we can help.

dieselgman

[newlister]

Dieselgman, Have put some pictures in my album. can't see much. Ta. newlister.

[listard-jp2]

You have what sounds like a single bearing alternator, and the long threaded stud which passes through the centre of the alternator shaft has the effect of pulling the rotating part of the alternator onto a tapered shaft which in turn usually forms part of the engines crankshaft, but on bigger engines is usually an adaptor shaft which bolts to the flywheel.

You need to loosen the nut on the end of the alternator shaft as you have already done so, and from here on in it can get a little tricky, as you need to break the taper between the engine and the alternator.

The easiest and least likely method to cause damage is to remove the bolts holding the alternator to the bell housing of the engine, then carefully open the gap between the engine and alternator at the bell housing joint face with fox wedges or similar. Once you have some load on the alternator shaft, carfully hit the end of the alternator shaft (where you removed the long threaded stud from) with a brass drift or soft mallet. This should be sufficient to break the taper.

[newlister]

Thanks for that Listard-JP2. and Dieselgman. have added some more pictures. It looked as I suspected, when the outer case of the alternator came away there was only the plastic fan to push against, a heavy hammer and some bits of wood did the job, but I did not like to hit too hard.! now i can see how it is. will have more confidence next time. made a puller up for the flywheel side.  the crank journal is well grooved and the big end of the conrod is also.  so scrap I suspect. Don't think they will repair, ? I bought this genny thinking I might be able to use the alternator, at the worse. so now not so simple. There is a stator coil ? at the back of the flywheel can you tell me what this does. I was a little supprised the ring gap looks as small as anything I've seen on a well used engine. 2003 when new? Who can give me a price on some parts.? A crank.and shells. a conrod  and a piston and rings.  Cheers Newlister

[listard-jp2]

I see from your email address thatyou are based in the UK, hence parts for Yanmar L100 engines are not difficult to find.

If you want genuine parts, these people are the biggest UK based supplier: http://www.hancox.co.uk/yanmar.html

If you don't need OEM parts then there is no shortage of Chinese based manufacturers, in which case ebay UK is a good place to start.

Another supplier I just located in the UK, which appears to supply pattern parts: http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk/yanmar-l100-engine-spare-parts-416-c.asp

Glad you got the alternator and engine to part company without damaging anything.

The stator ring you refer to, is for charging the battery (via a rectifier), as your engine is most likely to be electric start.

[38ac]

Not sure about over there but here in the states parts abound for those engines. Our military has just made a bunch of them available as surplus plus we have the Chinese clones everywhere. A quick search on Ebay found about every part for sale new but of Chinese manufacture. With the military getting rid of engines I am sure that Yanmar parts will soon follow?  The clones are available complete for $500 and shipping. As far as I know they have a very good reputation.

Good luck however you proceed
 

[newlister]

Thank you, Guys. The stator coil, it did strike me after a while. and my next question, how much d c   ? does this produce. and would it also charge the big Trojen 105's as well ?.  Such a Newbie I know. But thanks for going to the trouble for me. cheers Newlister.

[newlister]

The alternator is a Sincro srl  EK2 MCT. Just to correct myself. cheers Newlister.

[buickanddeere]

  Loosen the nut two turns from hand tight. Whack the end of the nut with a hammer. The alternator should slide off the taper.

[buickanddeere]

  Actually. Loose the nut two turns from hand tight. Then using a flat faced punch. Rap the end of the motor shaft. This will prevent damaging the shaft threads and nut threads.

[newlister]

Thanks guys for the replies.  Have got things apart now. and the crank is out and well scored,and looks too much to regrind, the conrod also. Been chasing a crankshaft. Had no reply by E Mail, from  the biggest Yanmar dealer in England, and the one place I have spoken to Bryco. They want £202.00 plus Vat. The piston was cracked vertical down between the top and middle ring, and as you run your finger over it, it felt to move. so no doubt it will lift away with a bit more force. So things are on hold for a while now with this project. time to wait  for a  little more mental stamina to return. Cheers Newlister.

[Apogee]

Newlister,

For that kind of money, you might consider having your crank welded up then reground back to standard.  Should be considerably less expensive than that new crank.

I'd also bring the rod to a good automotive machine shop and ask their opinion.  You might be surprised what they can fix...

Good luck!

Steve