Whooopppeeee - Clones have arrived

[dieselgman]

Hi Bill,

We have seen some fairly drastic balancing drilllings in our flywheels before. This usually indicates some casting irregularities that can be hard to locate without a complete strip and clean. You might check the depth of your drillings, I wouldn't worry about that unless they have drilled a significant portion of the flywheel face width.

dieselgman

[Billyrob]

Hi Guys,

I need to get the engine off the shipping pallet and on to a temporary platform with wheels to move it around my shop.

I do have a car engine hoist I picked up at an auction.   It seems very sturdy and is made in Canada (Not the lightweight ones made in China).

I think that the weight of the Lister clone would be more than the typical car engine???

Will this work?

Comments appreciated.

Best regards,

Bill

[dieselgman]

780#, quite a lot more than typical car engine. Your hoist may be rated to 1,000 lbs with a shortened arm position.

Look for your rating plate on the tool. Other than that, just try the pick and see if the tool seems to handle it easily. Stay out from under it and be ready in case it decides to drop.

dieselgman

[Billyrob]

780#, quite a lot more than typical car engine. Your hoist may be rated to 1,000 lbs with a shortened arm position.

Look for your rating plate on the tool. Other than that, just try the pick and see if the tool seems to handle it easily. Stay out from under it and be ready in case it decides to drop.

dieselgman

Hi Dieselgman,

I checked the manufacturers website and I think I am OK.   The hoist appears to be rated forr 2000 pounds at the shortest arm length and decreases incrementally to 600 pounds at the longest arm length.    Regardless, your advise to stay out from under it is good advice.

Bill

[Billyrob]

I see there are a couple longer head studs with a extra nut on each.    I assume that these would be good points to attach a bracket (spreader) and use it for lifting.

The engine seems very top heavy to attach lifting slings lower down.







These studs look pretty strong.

Bill

[Billyrob]

Oh Oh,

I just noticed the plugs on the coolant outlets say BSP.............

I think that means "British Standard Pipe"..................

How does that compare to the "NPT" (National Pipe Tapered Threads) and "NPS" (National Pipe Straight Threads)  that we are use to on this continent?

Do I have to look for an adapter?





Best regards !!!!!

Bill

[Lowrad]

Maybe it's an easy answer but I found that page explaining BSP vs NPT threads.

http://pipeandhose.com/node/2

[contaucreek]

The rigging you need is 2 eye nuts or 2 coupling nuts and 2 eye bolts and then a short sling and you are off to the races. I lifted my twin like that but it's a pain in the butt. Next plan is to make a big gantry with a chainfall, one that I can break down and take with me.

[LowGear]

This is a lot more weight than I'm used to so the chunk of chain between the two high rising head bolts with a a washer and nut at eat end just wouldn't cut it?

How about a piece of angle iron fitted to the two head bolts with a snatch hole (straight faces gentlemen) at center?

Casey

[dieselgman]

A good lifting eye has a bracket under each bolt with large chain eyes and rounded corners so the chain is not overstressed. I do not believe your engine will exceed the tensile strength of common chain though. Some soft washers will take any point loads and spread them out a bit. Angle iron will certainly work as well.

dieselgman

[Billyrob]

Maybe it's an easy answer but I found that page explaining BSP vs NPT threads.

http://pipeandhose.com/node/2

Hi Lowrad,

Yes, that explains it.   Thank You !!!    OK I guess I will need to look at McMaster-Carr or Granger's for BSP pipe fittings to fit the engine.    My plans for cooling will include an automotive radiator connected with flexible hoses.

Best regards !

Bill

[dieselgman]

As stated in the link from Lowrad, the pitch and makeup of threads in those fittings are obviously not a perfect match. I do know that folks have used NPT fittings in the BSP threads with some success. One key is not requiring any pressure to be held by the joint. I would also expect you could dress the BSP flanges with a NPT tap and also get reasonable results - for a very low to no pressure joint.

dieselgman

[38ac]

Last I checked those Brittish to American pipe adapters were plenty pricey at MC by the time they were shipped but low buck ways to same end abound.  American fittings will screw into the Brittsh threads but will leak. A couple ways around the adapters is to clean everything up well with brake cleaner or paint thinner and apply some JB weld to the threads or do same and braze.  Another low buck way is to watch Ebay for TACO pump flanges as I was directed by someone here. There is a little homework involved to go this route as there are several sizes, you can get the info from TACO's web site. You may also need to adjust the holes just a smidgeon with a file. Once I got all the part numbers sorted out I got a pair flanges with shipping for like $8.  If you own a set of taps you can run a 1" NPT tap in the Indian flange and although it will look a bit messy you can dope a nipple and it will seal, at least mine did,, .

Sorry Gary, you posted while I was typing

[toydiesel01]

Hi billyrob looks good the engin hoist should work on the head studs and a sling around the crank shaft .just to help take a little of the weight .  Rember to check for sand  and I would not start it even for a short test with no water connected.

just my 2 cents worth

[toydiesel01]

also make sure you turn down the speed for first test.