Whooopppeeee - Clones have arrived

[piperpilot3tk]

I just used plenty of teflon pipe thread tape and installed standard NPT threaded hose barbs in my 6/1 Powerline engine.  The fittings tightened up OK and still do not leak.

[contaucreek]

Hi billyrob looks good the engin hoist should work on the head studs and a sling around the crank shaft .just to help take a little of the weight .  Rember to check for sand  and I would not start it even for a short test with no water connected.

just my 2 cents worth

When I sling around the crank I always pull the pushrods then put a short 2 x 4 on either side of the cylinder, long enough to bear against the sling and prevent the engine from tipping and believe me it will. You have 90% of the weight above the center of gravity.

[Grael]

I just used plenty of teflon pipe thread tape and installed standard NPT threaded hose barbs in my 6/1 Powerline engine.  The fittings tightened up OK and still do not leak.

I did the same thing. No issues for 2+ years.

[Billyrob]

A look for hose fittings to fit the listeroid engine revealed two things.....

1) They are expensive here in North America ($30 each typical)

2) There is TWO type of BSP

BSBT  (British Standard Pipe Tapered)  similar to our NPT (National Pipe Tapered Threads)

BSBP  (British Standard Pipe Parallel)  similar to our NPS (National Pipe Straight Threads)

Of course the engine plug does not say which one...............



I will assume TAPERED threads because that is more common in piping systems.

I found these at "The Hoseshop" in England.    Relatively inexpensive.

I have contacted them and they are determining shipping costs by Postal Service
rather than courier (expensive + brokerage fees)   )



Best regards !!!
Bill

[listerdiesel]

The female thread is most likely parallel, into which you would screw a tapered fitting with sealant on the threads.

All of my Lister engines had parallel female up to the 2" BSP, and we have taps and dies for all sizes. The 2" BSP die is a hex fixed type, but super-useful for cleaning exhaust fittings, as it the male tap.

You'll need a larger water outlet than the one shown, we used these, which were USA-sourced by memory:



Peter

[Billyrob]

The female thread is most likely parallel, into which you would screw a tapered fitting with sealant on the threads.

All of my Lister engines had parallel female up to the 2" BSP, and we have taps and dies for all sizes. The 2" BSP die is a hex fixed type, but super-useful for cleaning exhaust fittings, as it the male tap.

You'll need a larger water outlet than the one shown, we used these, which were USA-sourced by memory:



Peter

Hi Peter,

I think the photo of the fitting I am looking at is a "stock" photo and is representative of the fitting (but maybe not the specific one described).

The 1" BSPT and 1 Inch hose specifications seem OK although the photo does not represent those features.



Best Regards !!

Bill

[Billyrob]

Hi Peter,

If the threads in the engine coolant ports are BSP "parallel" threads, inserting a BSP "Tapered" thread fitting would cause the fitting to "lock up" when tightened.

I guess that is what you want.  The threads to bind and form a seal.

The fact that the fitting is made of softer brass would help, and a bit of thread sealant would ensure no leaks.

Is that correct?

Bill

[dieselgman]

I do not use many British threaded parts but do know that a "tapered" male thread is designed to tighten into a similarly "tapered" female part... ONLY. That is not to say that other combinations will not work in this instance since the Lister coolant system is not pressurized and stresses on that joint should not be severe. Make sense? 

dieselgman

[SHIPCHIEF]

Get out your "Machinery's Handbook". (as Hotater used to tell us all the time)
BSP thread pitch is the same TPI as NPT in only a few sizes, 1/2 & 3/4 share 14 tpi
1/16" & 1/8" pipe; npt is 27 , BSP is 28 tpi
1/4" & 3/8", NPT is 18, BSP is 19 tpi
I know that's close enough to jam it together, but it's messed up.
1" thru 2" is 11.5 & 11 tpi, but above 2" ntp uses 8 tpi, and BSP stays with 11 tpi.
Get out the thread pitch gauge and your copy of Machinery's. You'll be glad you did.
http://industrialpress.com/products/category_feature/MH
This link will give you an intro into what Machinery's Handbook is, and why you need it, as a Do It Yerself kinda guy.

[Billyrob]

I do not use many British threaded parts but do know that a "tapered" male thread is designed to tighten into a similarly "tapered" female part... ONLY. That is not to say that other combinations will not work in this instance since the Lister coolant system is not pressurized and stresses on that joint should not be severe. Make sense? 

dieselgman

Hi Dieselgman,
I agree that a "tapered" male thread is designed to tighten into a similarly "tapered" female part... ONLY.     That would apply to both the BSP and National Pipe standards.   A "straight" or "parallel" thread system is designed to have an "O-Ring" do the sealing.

In the real world, I am sure that piping systems get mixed all the time.

If the engines have "BSP Parallel" threads, then that is the fitting I should be looking for.   If I can't find one,  a BSP Tapered thread would probably work (although not ideal).

Shipchief,

I have a 1953 copy of the Machinery's Handbook that I bought at a church auction for 50 cents.   It might be old, but almost all the information in the book is as good today as it was in 1953 

I will look at it tonight.

Thanks !!!!

Bill

[Billyrob]

Hi Guys,

My engine has been sitting in the middle of my driveway for several days now.   It was uncrated, but still bolted to pallet that it came on.

I made a new base for it with wheels so that I can move it around my shop.   However, first I must pick up the engine to remove the shipping pallet and put it on the new mobile base.    Previous comments on this forum cautioned on the engine being top heavy.     SAFETY FIRST!  Before lifting make sure you have good plan.

The 6 HP POWER LINE engine that Jim Caulder got for me has TWO longer head studs that can be used for lifting.   Nifty idea and I like the fact there are TWO so the engine can remain balanced.



I had a local sheet metal shop bend me a couple angle brackets and a spreader to put them together.    A trip to Home Depot got me the chain and clevis pins I needed.   A few holes were all that was necessary (no welding). These were assembled on to the engine.







The engine remained perfectly balanced when listed and placing it on the new platform was a breeze....



Rolling it into the shop was easy.





Cheers !!!!

[dieselgman]

Nice job! Do you have a foundation planned for your installation?

dieselgman

[fabricator]

I had some success in the past with straight thread by just running a NPT tap into it.

[LowGear]

Wow fabricator,

What a totally radical approach.  Your simple, direct brain wrinkle idea is really great.  Even if it only worked 50% of the time it would still be great.  And if it doesn't do the job what are you out?  Of course, I'd never suggest running a clean sharp tap and die across threads just prior to assembly of an important job as SOP - ever.

Casey

[johna]

Couldn't you just use 1" BSPT pipe nipple?  They are not that expensive and could be connected to radiator by heater hose.  Found these at mcmaster-carr.   

http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-pipe-nipples/=ejd9q2